well last weekend i finally got to the ocean the first time in 7 months. I must say swimming and weightlifting kept me in pretty damned good shape i was able to ride what i used to consider “too low volume” boards no problem. So…
friday night get down to the beach at 7:45 with about 45 minutes of light left. I scramble into my suit and booties and gloves(which i definetly didn’t need) and since it was about head high and i wasn’t sure how well i could paddle i borrowed my friends 6’2" thruster. He was at his prom. I got a few waves only one could be considered a ride, drop in on this nice right do a pump/drive off the bottom and try for a cover up in the high tide onshore surf. Didn’t quite get it. But squirt past the white water and get a little floater.
Saturday morning I woke up and tried to grab my cellphone that was ringing. I didn’t know if it was my friend calling for us to go surfing or if it was my alarm so i would call him to go surfing. I had slept using my arms as a pillow and they were still asleep and wouldn’t listen to me, it must have been quite the sight my retarded arms trying to grab my cell. Anyway, i call my friend and we go out at this spot with some nice really lined up rights with no wind. We get it all to ourselves from about 5:30 am-6:45. I was once again riding the 6’2" round tailed thruster. i felt over gunned but wasn’t complaining the board could have used a hair more area in the tail but i was doing fine, i got 2 really good round houseson one wave and got a snap and floater on the other. I was gonna go out again but i had lifeguard trials and the wind had killed it when iwas done, sunday was pretty crappy all day though i got 45 minutes in the water no good waves, I ws riding a swallow tailed thruster that had to stay in the pocket and the waves weren’t cooperating for that and i was surfing backside so it was not a great sesssion, but man does it feel good to get back out there.