pre-paring for a cutlap video

Due to some emails asking how to do cutlaps, we made another video.

http://www.austinsurfboards.com/laps.wmv

And to answer the questions in the emails:

We put a 2 inch band of tape then cover with butchers block paper to get some extra insurance against leakage(even more so in the nose and tail area).

Yes you can use butchers block paper it will not leak through.(as long as its heavy enough).

Also you could use a drop cloth, trash bags, wax paper, or even a shower curtain. We use butchers paper because you can get 600 ft x 36" roll for right at 20 bucks.

Austin S.

www.austinsurfboards.com

Thanks again for sharing!

This is one of the reasons I love this Forum…Thank You.

Austin you da man on the videos between this on the sam george video no one should ever have ask simple questions on glassing again

That is effort put in to show things like this. knowledge is no good unless you share it

Great video, thanks for the effort. But being a natural-born commentator, I gotta suggest a few things. Also, some notes about what NOT to do are useful, since there’s more than one way to skin a cat…

One round of 3/4 inch wide Scotch 233 tape is about all I used for most cut laps. Only on the most curvy noses or tails do I use some 1/2 inch tape. Tape’s expensive and expendable.

Two, although the Scotch 233 has excellent “stick” and is really impermeable to resin, since I’ve been using UV cure, the resin sets so quickly that I don’t need the impermeability the 233 offers. I have gotten away with plain old cheapo masking tape on most colored lams. If the blank is sanded (100 grit enough), blank cleaned with compressed air and the tape firmly pressed down, the “plain old” tape works just as well. I use the cheap tape because (one) it works and (2) Scotch 233 is $4-something a roll versus “plain old” for less than half. Hint to anyone in Honolulu: Kilgo’s price for 233 is excellent. The price at that place on Colburn Street sucks.

After laying one round of tape at the line, lift the inner edge of the tape, slip the paper under it, and set the tape down firmly with your finger. Much less tape used. Where individual pieces of paper join, a one-inch strip of cheapo tape perpendicular to the rail is good insurance. Usually use a couple short strips at the nose and/or tail also rather than cut the paper to fit the curves.

My paper doesn’t to all the way to the other rail. Doesn’t need to, but it is nice to have the whole non-laminated surface covered in case you need to adjust the position of the blank on the rack, midway through the job. Much more likely to happen with short light shapes, of course, than when laminating tanks.

I use blueprint paper, folded once. Though it’s relatively porous compared to butcher’s paper, I’ve got tons of it (engineer, right?). Folded once, the two layers at the tape are enough, especially when using fast-setting UV cure lam resin.

Another backyarder gave me a good tip: instead of using paper to mask, he used waxed paper. Mom always has this around, thanks Mom.

DON’T USE NEWSPRINT. The ink comes off on the blank, and it’s absorptive and porous as hell.

Just a couple more tips for you guys. I never use scotch 233 except for glosscoats. I use 3M 2600 which is dirt cheap as far as tape goes. I actually get it next day delivery from www.officedepot.com . We do alot of 3 inch cut laps and they are messy so we like to cover the entire deck. you can get the thick wide paper from http://www.guntershippingsupplies.com/kraft_paper.htm . Really cheap, and also good for templates, dropclothes for ding repair. We used to use wider tape to make the bends, but if you are not using UV, the tape can release and try to return to its normal shape(straighten out). All of the tape i get is under 1.50 a roll, if you look around (google)you can get it cheap.

Hope this helps,

Austin S.

www.austinsurfboards.com

Howzit Honolulu, Ihear you about the Colburn St prices since that’s my supplier. I used to blow off the blanks with air before taping off but I find that using my shop vac with a regulap vac brush atachment gets all the foam dust out and gives me the best adhesion. I got tired of blowing off the dust and then finding it resettling back on the blank because the dust was still in floating around the room. Aloha,Kokua

good video! thnx alot for that.

but at the end it says: “visit www.austinsurfboards.com for more videos”

where can i find those video’s on your website? I’d really like to see them…

thnx

Hey greg.

Here are some more links. The videos are hidden behind pictures of boards.

http://www.austinsurfboards.com/retroswirl.wmv

http://www.austinsurfboards.com/austinsurfboards.avi

http://www.austinsurfboards.com/samgeorgevideo.wmv

I think thats it? I dont remember if there are more.

Hope they help.

Austin S.

www.austinsurfboards.com

Great info.

Thank you Austin Surfboards

thnx man!! great videos!

Thank you Austin, if thats not sharing the stoke and the love for shaping I dont know what is. Un Millon de Gracias!!!

Quote:
Due to some emails asking how to do cutlaps, we made another video.

http://www.austinsurfboards.com/laps.wmv

Bugger - I couldn;t get that to load…

Corran

right mouse click → save target as

pherhaps that will work for ya?