Well, I have taken the approach of basically ignoring two people who have posted in this thread. One likes to take potshots and make unprovoked insults. So much butthurt.
The other is his little lapdog. I will not reply to either one, directly. They are borderline trolls and should be treated as such. You will note that I have not responded in kind to these two. They can be the ones to toss unfounded childish insults. I will refrain from doing likewise.
I’ve got info for you on the Behr. But first the crap. When an individual insinuates I am a lier anywhere in public, be it a bar, the beach, pier parking lot or interweb forum. I can let it go , but I don’t forget. I’ve made apologies on this forum but have yet to ever recieve one. No I don’t take a couple of punks shit on this Site seriously. In fact it’s downright laughable and I get akick out of it. Pau. I’ve got a lot of experience with Behr and other Acrylic sealers. As far as yellowing goes Behr is the slowest to yellow that I have used since I first heard of “Secret Sauce” in '95 or 96 when I started buying supplies from Fiberglass Hawaii in (Formally) Santa Barbara and Santa Cruz… I didn’t wanna pay whatever it was at the time for a pint bottle of “acrylic paint thinner” aka “Secret Sauce” so I kept at it until I found out what it was. Of the acrylic tile sealers that I have experimented with the Behr is the one I settled on for; ease of use, best finish, durability etc. etc. I have heard that guys use it to spray over artwork. But I can’t imagine that there would be anything more than a gram or two in weight. I’m assuming you are using US Blanks though no one was willing to answer when I asked. I don’t know what’s up with that. US Blanks are greatly improved over what they were the first year or so of production, very white and tight cell. Millenium is getting better every day. Pretty damned white. I am not prejudice but Arctic is the tightest cell structure in my opinion of the three. And extremly white. Graphics pop. The absorbtion of resin is noticeably less. Behr is great stuff, but you had better consider that it is meant to be used as a sealer. As an acrylic sealer it should in my opinion only be topped with a compatable material ie acrylic. I don’t think I would ever use it to seal a blank under a Poly or Epoxy lamination. I know alot of you have been getting away with using it here on Sways to seal graphics etc. but don’t Say I didn’t warn you. Lowel
Swied, you are correct. You have to ignore a lot of ugly side issues to embrace the wet out table method.
Well, one thing about PU blanks is that it does absorb resin. Actually making the foam surface stronger. Harder shell over a lighter weight center. That was part of the reason of Clark Foams success. Unlike some other foams which are harder and less absorbant. A good example is XPS Foam. Non-absorbant and only a surface bond. Very prone to delamination.
When Gary Linden switched to Walker Foam, his boards became instantly heavier. Larger cells and absorbed much more resin. Stronger yet heavier. I airbrushed his boards then. The solid sprayed boards were definately lighter. Yes, it did seal them. Also blocked its capability to absorb resin.
If you are gonna seal them, spraying them white will not only make them lighter. But will keep them whiter.
Same amount of work as spraying acryic.
And working the resin through the fiberglass forces the resin into the foam. I don’t think a wetout table method achives this. Surface bond only.
That’s my .02.
Thanks Barry, thats my take on it as well. The wet out table gets resin in the glass, not the foam. I have never done it, don’t advocate it, or seal my blanks for that matter, because weight has not been an issue for me. I just mentioned it as another means someone shared of accomplishing the same thing, i.e., minimizing absorption into the foam, to keep the weight down. Basically just sharing a comment on the theory, which is what Cleanlines was asking, if I understood correctly, when he said he wanted input on the idea.
Scott - your garage build photo puts my messy little shop to shame!
If I wanted to spray a US Blank white, what would be a good paint?
Raal world correct observations. Barry probably has a couple of tricks to getting Walker Foam to cover well, and I have a good idea on what he did; nonetheless I never claimed to be an airbrusher.
That’s right. Using a table is pretty damned ingenious if you can wet it out and move it onto the blank single handedly. Rolling it up should work, but, threads may be an issue. Don’t know, never tried it. I can walk into the Lam Rm, turn on the stereo with a little “Dead” on, “dress” a blank, pour and squeegey, same ol, same ol. it works and I’m comfortable with it. Weight wise I weigh mine against yours no problem. Lowerl
If you are gonna spray a blank spray in white. Use a flat cheap latex paint. Tape off the stringer and dust it evenly. Primers or heavy coats will put you back onto “surface bond.” I’ve still got a few nice Clarks. I paint them. Lowel
Interior/Exterior. No matter. There are a couple of white bases. One being grayer than the other. I used to use Swiss Coffe-- Glidden on Clarks. Matched perfect for repairs. But yes, any “Flat” Acrylic Latex. I know some guys prime them heavy and then paint them a color over that, but I think too much paint will affect the lamination bond. Ask me how I know. Lowel
Latex house paint will work but best to cut it with a clear acylic and of course thin with water. Just to be safe I use bottled water and or distilled water for thinning out white paints when doing large areas. When doing color fades or full color work I never considered using a base primer.
So whats the big deal about taping off the stringer? I have done it many times but why? The white will mute the color of the wood a bit but whats wrong with that?
Wet out table is a sheet of plywood on some saw horses, covered in plastic. That will get you 8’. If you want longer, fold the cloth over. Tighter weave stays straighter. If you are alone, roll it up on a 4" diameter PVC pipe. Home depot sells 2’ pieces of ABS for a couple of bucks. If you want to keep the pipe clean, wrap it in some plastic.
Lay out the cloth and then pour on the resin, and after you pour out the resin, but before you spread it out, cover it in a sheet of painters plastic. I know this sounds strange, but if the cloth is covered in plastic, The resin will still spread, and you won’t distort the cloth. Lift up the top plastic when you are done. That will take away some extra resin.
Roll up the cloth on the pipe, and then unroll it onto the board. Squeegee out any wrinkles.
Do your stuff to get it in the bag. Peel ply, breather, whatever.
Slip it in the bag, and turn it over so the cloth is on the bottom. Gravity will keep the resin in the cloth and not soak into the foam.
Attach the vacuum to the back side of the board, so you don’t suck resin into the pump, and don’t blister the laminate at the point of hose attachment.
Save yourself a scrap of saturated cloth outside the bag. When the scrap isn’t sticky anymore, neither is your board. Take it out of the bag, and do any trimming or cutlaps you have to do.
And again, tighter weaves stay straighter when you are moving the cloth around.
Gold!
Thank you so much!
That’s a concise, effective way to do it. If that is what you want to do.
In Australia we don’t have the future floor stuff you guys love.
Water based acrylic sounds good (tried two types, frigen waste of money) but the ones I’ve used took hours to dry and one reacted with polyester resin turning it yellow/brown so I’m off that idea.
Good floor products are the same if not more expensive than quality automotive acrylic paints in australia. So if your ozzy and reading this use auto acrylics and auto acrylic thinners.
What about clear acrylic Automotive as a sealer on the blank?
The ‘tough wearing’ floor sealer I used as a finish coat was not scratch resistant at all either, looked horrible the first time it went in and out of a board bag.
Epoxy laminations, i havent done many, but I finished one with a two PAC polyurethane made for boats, (as surgested by speedneedle) was hard as F@%k, good stuff.
I think its just a cosmetic thing, the wood stringer looks best when its unobstructed. When the stringer gets painted over, it starts to look like those asian factory popouts with no stringer, to some people, in my opinion, your mileage may vary, no warranties expressed or implied, etc etc etc hahaha
and you know, that muted look is just so hipster shabby chic!
Obviously we are not talking about the same product. This stuff is so easy to use it’s pathetic. I’ve sprayed 2-pak before. Haz-mat warning