So I decided to give the Probox boxes a whirl just for the hell of it. Any dos and don’ts from people who’ve used them? I ordered 2 sets and an install kit, with the bit etc.
Billy
throw some putty around tape seal. keeps resin out of the insert better than just using the tape.
The ProBox install kits come with the putty (clay) to protect the screw holes from resin getting in there. They also come with die cut peel-n-stick covers to protect the fin slots too.
~Brian
syringe really helped me…
got mine at Tap Plastics…
finer tip than the ones from fiberglasssupply
if you read this they are easy:
http://www.proboxfinsystems.com/pages/installation.html
but here’s a few things to make it easier…
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you don’t need much spray glue to hold the jigs down, just a quick shot on the board and a quick shot on the bottom of the jig… being contact cement it needs a little time to get tacky, then place the jig onto your marks, wiggle if necessary to align…done.
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set the router depth carefully the first time, then you’ll never have to mess with it again
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if you are using a smaller laminate-type router, take your time when routing out the hole with the stringer… those little routers don’t have the juice of a full sized one.
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You WILL be wearing goggles for the routing, but even so if you happen to have a buddy and a shop vac, it’s quite nice to have him stand there and vaccum away the router chips & dust with a long nozzle while you’re doing it. Much easier to see…
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I put a single layer of glass in the bottom of each hole… same shape as the hole, sorta figure 8-ish. Takes only a few seconds to cut them out & drop them in, & adds strength. Mfr. recommends either this or wrapping with roving, I never did either before and they seemed plenty strong, but I do this now, and it seems easier to me than the roving-wrap.
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um… don’t confuse the center box with the rail box. They are a LOT easier to install than to remove. I usually put a couple of pencil marks “C” on the center box while I’m taping it off so that when I’m in the middle of stuff I don’t get confused (again), ha ha. (Nothing against the die-cut stickers but I find tape to be easier, myself).
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I always level the board, fore & aft and side-to-side before I start the actual install. Helps in filling the holes evenly.
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make sure when you push the boxes into the jigs that they go all the way down, so the little tabs are contacting the glass on your board… they ought to “click” in there
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the syringe-deal is ok, but I find that with a little practice you can fill the routed hole just to the right depth, or use a measured amount (1 oz resin) that you may not need it. I use the resin stir stick and just drizzle a little extra resin into place if needed… also helpful for picking up a little excess from one place and moving to another, if that happens.
keith has the process down, just a couple of things to add - by learning the hardway:
-if using a plunge router, make sure you have it ALL the way down, or you will chew up the templates
-kinda like Keith said, put fiberglass in the routed hole AND use the fiberglass rope roving. I spoke with Larry about this; the Probox install guide is not crystal clear, he recommends both, fiberglass and rope
-color the resin if you have a color where the boxes are going in
-light on the contact spray, like Keith says. I have found that putting masking tape on the board where the templates are going will save a ton of sanding latter
-make sure you push the boxes ALL the way down and flush to the templates
-be careful grinding the boxes after the resin dries.
I have installed many boxes and are sold on Probox
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- I always level the board, fore & aft and side-to-side before I start the actual install. Helps in filling the holes evenly.
good advice, i didn’t do this to begin with and had to level the board and top off the boxes after the first shot went off.
i would add that the fin area should be level… this would usually mean that the nose is a little lower than the tail.
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-if using a plunge router, make sure you have it ALL the way down, or you will chew up the templates
more good advice. when i was routing out the hole for one of a quad box, the edge of my plunge router bumped the next box
and lifted it up a little and i munched into the template that i was routing… the plunge router is so powerful, i didn’t notice it
right away.
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So I decided to give the Probox boxes a whirl just for the hell of it. Any dos and don’ts from people who’ve used them? I ordered 2 sets and an install kit, with the bit etc.
Billy
EndlessWinter, Welcome to the ProBox movement and thanks for taking the time to try ProBox.
rick,rick,rick,Greenlight,ChrisP, KeithMelville and chillysurfer Thanks for stepping in with your thoughts. In reading your comments, helped me be aware of some points I should make new ProBox users more aware of. Thank You guys for your support.
Mahalo,Larry
Hey Larry…how are the bonfires coming. No calls.
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Hey Larry…how are the bonfires coming. No calls.
Hi Solo, Bonfires will be done next week. Mahalo,Larry
Great stuff…
I always forget to level the board and find myself running around looking for a piece of wood to shove under the rack !!!
I’m working in the backyard not in production…After the resin has cured I use a rasp file to take down the boxes before power sanding.
Here’s a couple of tips for the Highsurf center fin boxes that Larry sells.
Mark the center of the stringer with a pencil. Use a file to mark the center of the box. The file mark in the photo filled in with white resin. Tape over the box if you are sloppy. Make a fake fin out of scrap plywood. Do not remove the plastic things going across the box until the resin has cured. Use paint stir sticks or other scrap wood to level the board.
Ray
My 2 cents: DON’T spray adhesive on only one of the surfaces and stick it to an un-sprayed other surface. I did this on my first box and realized that the jig was starting to move around as I routed the hole. Contact adhesive needs to be applied to both surfaces.
I also would suggest making a cardboard shield with a cutout that covers the surrounding area so you don’t spray glue outside of where you really need it.
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-be careful grinding the boxes after the resin dries.
I have installed many boxes and are sold on Probox
Very ood advice, sand to much and you can leave the inserts slightly proud, so be extra carce if toy have concaves through the fin area.
I think this is a really great system and I can’t praise it enough.