Just tried to install a probox side finbox. I stuffed it up due to using a plunge router. It was too big, and i couldnt see where i was cutting. I tried to take the clear plastic sight guard out, but the screws were rounded, so i had to do it blind. I managed to chew up part of the red plastic jig, right where the tab goes, but, the system is so well thought out that it didn’t really matter. I finished off with a stanley knife, and put the box in the hole. Even minus one tab, the box is still quite snug, and the fact that the box sits right down on the bottom of board means it will still work fine. Though the hole looks a little messy hahaha
Good on ya larry, this is a great system. A trim router would be best though.
Chipfish, dont worry, i have two sets of jigs, so i’ll send the good ones!!!
Welcome to Proboxes. When you route out your side boxes route through the middle first and then round the outside. It makes the route go much quicker. When you route the stringer, shave it down with passes on each side until it is reasonably thin. Then route through each end of the stringer and then break the stringer away. Clean up the mess left behind.
If you try and shave the stringer through the sides all the way through you will end up throwing splinters into the foam and possibly yourself as well. Also for setting the depth of the bit, turn your trim router upside down, turn a jig upside down and place it on the router base and then measure 1/8" of an inch with a ruler from the top of the bearing on the bit to the top of the jig.
Speed was not the problem tod, i just couldnt see through the viewing hole. Im guessing the bit was too small. If i had used a trim router ( held in one hand ), i could’ve seen where i was cutting. For the next one, im just gonna go slowly, and finish off with the stanley. PITA i know, but better than buying a trim router for a one off job.
Buinnings have Ryobi trim routers for $95… does a really clean job every time and is really easy to use. I’ve done about 10 probox installs and not a hitch. It’s not a 1 trick pony though, I use my trim router for all sorts of other jobs - handy tool to have.
If you are using the ProBox router bit the depth is just under 1". Close to 15/16…do some tests on some scrap…
Set the router base on the jig at about a 45 degree angle. (bit not touching board). Turn on the router and slowly cut into the foam until the router sits flat on the jig…Follow Dean’s instructions…go slow…use both hands…never take your eyes off the job. Unplug the tool when finished.
Yep - all that… Beerfan, you said you could use a trim router so you could use one hand… don’t use 1 hand, always use 2 even on a smaller trim router. Doesn’t take long for one of those things to get out of control and a drill bit spinning at 3000 rpm can do some damage.
When we install proboxes, we cut them a touch deeper than you are supposed to. Then during installation we put two patches of 6 oz under the boxes. We found this to be much stronger. We dont have as many crush in repairs now.
routers want to pull left due to the going-right-rotation of the bit… so it’s easy to stay snug against the left side of the jig. On the right side of the jig, pull the router towards you (easy if you’re standing at the tail of the board) and keep the guide bearing against the jig. It’s a LOT easier to see if you have a vaccum take off. If your router or trim router doesn’ t have one, get a friend to hold a narrow nozzle shop vac near or behind the router. Wear goggles of course!!!
I use adhesive cleaner to remove the spray glue from the board after pulling the jigs. Nice mellow orange smelling stuff.
I always turn the router off and let it stop before removing it from the hole. Safety first!
I like to reinforce the whole hole rather than just the bottom - I cut the glass egg-timer shaped and big enough to run up the sides of the hole, but not quite to the top. Takes a little practice but not that hard.
stringers are the tricky part, but I find it easier with a trim router to just go slow on the sides and thin it down rather than doing depth adjustments and shaving it vertically (same method essentially, but just going at it from 90 degrees different direction)… with a plunge rounter and pre-set depths, top down is probably the more efficient method.
I dont’ know about everybody else but I just tape off the top of the box with 233+ and trim the ends with a razor… I only use the brown putty/clay stuff to fill the screw holes. the precut stickers are good for gloss coating but I find it takes me longer to peel off the backing paper than to do the same thing with masking tape!
In the picture it also looks like there is some glass extending partway OVER the black part of the Probox. Did you glass over the box too (or am I seeing things)?
If so how did that go?
And, any plans to use the white boxes and then glass over them with a tiny, trippy swirly resin pattern?
