Some questions for ProBox…
My ProBox router bit has a gap between the bearing and the cutter. Is this gap important? What should the gap be???
I’m currently using 3M Super 77 spray adhesive…I like the product…Recommended by ProBox…I was using super 77 long before I started glassing surfboards…People are telling me there’s other products that will do the job…
Any testing by ProBox
Thanks…
Ray
Hi Stingray, 77 spray is what we use which seems to work the best for right now, but we always look to find a better way.
As for the gap, yes there is a slight gap due to the radius is the router shank. But if you change the bearing be sure to push the bearing all the way down until you can not push anymore. If the gap is to large this will cause the router bit to cut below the glass when the bearing is lined up with the jig or ride off the top of the jig when the bit is adjusted to cut the glass clean. Hope that helps.
Your bit in the pic looks good.
Mahalo,Larry
Aloha Ray:
We have tried some different spray adhesives but stuck with the 77 because it had the right balance of holding and subsequent release. Some of the spray adhesives are much more aggressive making it much harder to release the jig. Even 3M has another very similar product to 77 that is super aggressive and very hard to release.
We stick with the 77 because we know it works, if you come across another option that works please let us know as it would be good to pass it along, especially if it is cheaper and more easily found!
Mahalo!
-Robin
Howzit hand-shaper, FH sells Tacky which is for gluing sandpaper to pads,doesn't come in a spray form,comes in a squeeze bottle so less adhesive where you don't need it. FH also sells a product called Clearco and it is very adhesive, I use it for grinding down plugs and boxes. You need a heat gun to remove the sandpaper from pad. I think the Tacky would work as well as 77.Aloha,Kokua
Are you using a trim router? If you are you may want to stick the collar on it and use a quarter inch straight bit.
i use the HF trim router with the provided router bit from probox using super 77…perfect combo, no complaints or changes needed.
Thank you…
Hey Stingray,
Most important thing about the router bit is setting it up correctly for accurate depth cutting.
The tip of the bit should protrude exactly 1.0 inch from the router base plate
I use a T square to check it.
*Safety Note! Always unplug your router when messing with the bit! (if you value your digits)
~Brian
Aloha Kokua
I’ve tried the Tacky and a similar 3M tube product for the ProBox Jigs. Total mess and had a really hard time getting the Tacky off the board.
3M Super77 is the way to go. You only spray it on the jigs before placing on the board so no mess, great adhesion, and if you put masking tape down first there is no adhesive cleanup.
The masking tape also protects the hotcoat from oversanding. When you hit the tape, stop and go to a lower grit to finish off the box install
~Brian
probably one of the most important tips to pro probox installs is the masking tape,
as Brian points out in the below quotes.
put it down over the entire tail area.
make your marks, spray glue your jigs to the tape and route away.
when I pull the jigs, keep the tape on with your marks to help align the box as you
set it with epoxy/patches/roving…I always forget this step…so key.
remember also to rough up the exterior of the box before install…mechanical bond.
the tape keeps the surface clean(er) than working directly upon it, gives you an
easy medium for making marks upon and is a great buffer when it comes time to
sand.
and if you put masking tape down first there is no adhesive cleanup.
The masking tape also protects the hotcoat from oversanding. When you hit the tape, stop and go to a lower grit to finish off the box install
afoaf
did you say you pull the jigs before insalling the box’s?
Thanks Brian and Afoaf.
that little tip sounds so simple but makes great sense…
i’ll try it on my next install… i think Benny1 mentioned that a
jig could easily be made to go around the probox and set in place
to route out the excess box after install leaving just a little for fine sanding.
remember also to rough up the exterior of the box before install…mechanical bond.
No need to pre-prep the ProBoxes anymore. They come standard with the ProKote prep now. Very convenient. ~Brian <a href="http://www.greenlightsurfsupply.com/" class="bb-url">www.greenlightsurfsupply.com</a>
I don’t put down masking tape before the jigs, just spray glue and slap them on. A little adhesive remover will take off any spray glue at the end of the process in about 30 seconds with a paper towel… I suppose if you were retro-fitting a board that had a gloss coat already the masking tape would make sense.
Also, why would you remove the jigs before you install the boxes? They are supposed to stay on both to act as resin dams and to position the boxes correctly.
I fill slowly over three passes using a syringe…the last pass just barely topping off the gap
leaving a little to bleed out on to the tape.
Personal preference, I guess.
Thanks Brian.
i messed up, nevermind
I hope I didn’t miss a good burn.
I’ve used the cheaper spray glue stuff at half the price or less and it works great.
Target/Wal-mart/H.D. ,all carry less costly spray glues or if cost is no object and a ultimate stick is what you want…try spray 90 by 3M …rock tuff stuff !
Herb
Hey Ray,
I’ve used the Super 90 and the Super 77 spray adhesives from 3M, and the Super 90 is way too strong. Pain to remove the jigs when they’re glued down with that stuff, and much harder to clean off the jigs themselves.
Won’t be deviating from the 77 unless Probox says they’ve found something better.