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Bobby Owens you vomit-eating dogs…Bobby Owens!!!
Absol-fucking-lootly, Bobby Owens could have won that contest.
Single fin. Kealoha Kaio, a master of the move, throughout the 1960’s. His commitment to the fade, would make you think he was going left! Deep!
Well, ya gotta decide WHAT you want to do on a wave before you choose your board, eh ?
Fades favor singles because you lay a bottom turn easier with the narrower tail, then can get more speed with just one aligned fin, as opposed to multifins all out of alignment on Sunset’s normally flatter face at the bottom turn.
Once along a steep wall, most any fin config can hang high and go fast, from one thru 5.
Most guys ride their singles longer…talking Sunset DOH surfing, not your local spot. Longer is harder to skate/pivot/twisto, so the surfing looks smoother and cleaner. You can surf a tri, twin, quad or 5 smooth, but you know a single does it really well with a narrower tail.
You know narrow tails are easy to lean over at speed and in bumpy stuff, even slightly offbalance.
Gun shapes with wider tails take lots of power and excellent balance, as well as smoother waters, to layout a bottom turn…generally, the pro’s with gorilla legs and gyroscope balance just don’t apply here.
I just watched a video. Isn’t that how pro surfers, surf? Just ask’n. I liked watching Jeff Hakman and MR. Mike
Thought about this one…
I’m glad for the pro example…
May have said, but this summer, rare DOH swell, N winds = certain “mysto” point
about a dozen or so guys, probably all on 6’ somethings… sitting on the inside riding inbetweeners, and, “glory be,” duck diving the sets… Which I, on my 8’ bellied semi gun, was sitting 60-80 yards out side, waiting patiently, and getting the goods all to my self… HA!!!
Again - thanks to the pro’s for setting such a handy example
I find modern shortboard surfing to be very boring to watch.No style whatsoever.They do get in to some unreal tubes though.I think someone said the last world champion to have any style was Tom Curren.If you guys could have seen Greg L in his younger years you would be impressed as heck.I saw him out at Sebastian on an epic day and I swear it was the best surfing I ever saw in my life.Don’t tell him I said that though.
The young guys all think a gun is 6’8-7’.
Love all the 8’ theory, mush gun and other similar threads that enlighten.
If the contest wasn’t on wouldn’t all the pros be speed bumps for the crew on the 9’-11’ guns?
I’ve had this discussion with Zane Harrison, he won it in 99or 98 or 2000 one of them the other he came 4th. Loved his 7’6 pipedreams by Murray Bourton had a big thick gun from owl but wasn’t comfortable on it, was completely different to wha he liked. Had som Arakawa’s loved them 2. for him a 7’6 is a big board(gun). He rides a 6’3/6’4 at 8ft indo. It seems to work for him. me I’d go atleast 7’6 in that and I’m not going to the islands.