Nice board Paul!!
Sorry mpconway86, I was taking the piss out of boards with food names. Agreed with Paul on that type of board being ‘great for head high steep hollow waves’ very versatile too, if you went away with the misses and she only let you take one board in the car/plane that would be it. I’ve done a few and ended up at this, I’m 6’0’’ tall and about 75kgs, ride a 5’10’’ x 19’’ x 2 3/8’'…get one…get two!! Or make one…and make one for someone else!!
Nice barrel shot Paul, lucky to live where you do. I’d love to go to Chile one day too…Good luck with the board purchase mpconway!! Here’s one at a much more populated place…
.hi marty thankyou. the rail is carbon fiber woven into glass. the board is an eskimo foam blown eps and its a very good foam. much better then the pu blank they sell which i think are poor qaulity compared alongside a bennet . the eps however is very good and doesnt suck water . it is apparently 2 pound eps
hi marsh wheres that barrel looks good, guessing down south.
i feel lucky one afternoon we are hitting cornices and the next lips. great stuff
nz hardplate freecarving in spring
on the groom
my mate in a contentious situation lol. no doubt the burn was well deserved. this is a nice tame wave imo allthough it does get a little rugged at times. a few of the other spots are not really photographed out of comon sense
anyway wide low rocker boards work well in the tube. thin tails with lots of tail rocker good . thruster good. rounded pin good. deep single concave to flat or light single in the tail. plenty of volume up front to give paddle power for late drops. on your feet fast is the key. nose as low as 4 inches fine. get rid of the sharp f%cken point on the nose before it takes someones eye out . im just a journeyman in the tube btw but at least im not a spectator. this board design put me in the rotation… all hail neal purchase junior
one last thing mpconway86. go for the rack model you are looking at . get it in eps. and surf it to death and if it made a difference to your wave count then go to talk to a local shaper and tell him to make it the same or similar, only reinforced in the tail, nose and fins, and get it with glass fins not plastic… i would not recomend going to a local shaper unless they make a board the same as the one you want to buy. but i guarantee most of them can not do this as they will try and talk you into what they think is best but dont actually have a f#cken clue what is best because they are not YOU. so they guy that trys to sell you some other design is a waste of time. these boards are best selling models for a reason btw. but they were not invented by the companies selling . they have only been made popular by them
!
note the low rocker on marshes tube. the board is short with low rocker . this keeps his foot on the tail pad yet balanced in a forward trim. the further the you raise your back heel the further you can drop your back knee. this lowers your center of gravity without breaking at the hip . that way your center is low and perfectly centered . feet facing forward. this is how you retain front foot drive for high line tube riding and the key to a clean exit. pointing down in a front foot trim .and when you pop out you back foot is perfectly placed on the grip for the old switcharoo for a cutback on the shoulder. i personally belive that most people put the tail pad to far back btw especially on longer boards. i believe that shortboards should rarely be ridden at a length longer then a persons hight. 7 foot plus narrow heavily rockered mini guns are are an outdated design. they are unstable and dogs to paddle and they are tracky and they dont fit in the corolla
Hey Paul the photo is of Winki around from Fairy Bower so right in the city (north side, Manly). But down south, the best reefs are crowded now through the week, weekends ridiculous. This is due to awesome highways, higher populations and a total disregard for taking photos of what were once sacred places. You guys are lucky to live in N.Z and Chile.
I agree with you Paul on all levels except a well designed 6’10’’ or 7’0’’ + is still valid and needed to catch/ride a decent sized wave, of which I think Chile has a few??
For me… wide, flat boards only work good in the tube if they’re short. The longer they get, the more curve they need, both in the planshape and rocker.
I’ve gotten a much better idea of what would be good for me, thanks again. I’ve been giving “props”.
Marsh, Chile has a lot of big wave surfing, Punta de Lobos in Pichilemu being the most famous spot. However, I’m pretty far from a lot of the big waves, though in the city I’m working in there are a couple spots that hold up to 4 or 5 meters. I’ve ridden one of the spots, the more forgiving of the 2, on my 6’2"…I know I should have something bigger for those days, but for now I’m just looking to get something as my go-to board for everyday surfing, which for me will be head high fast and steep…
If you or anyone ever have questions about Chile feel free to PM me.
yeah cool dude that wave looks like raglan. love to go to chile one day for surfing and snowboarding
