I know there are a bunch of folks here who have used Greg’s epoxy, but I can’t find these issues in the archive so hopefully someone here can help me out.
Has anyone tried tints and cutlaps with this epoxy? How well does it work with tint? I know epoxy is supposed to be tougher than poly, so does that make for a more difficult cutlap? How long to wait before you can flip and trim?
How about concaves? Is it any more “sticky” in keeping the glass down on concaves while pulling out excess resin?
Thanks for any tips guys, this place kicks much ass.
I’ve done color with Greg’s resin, but I didn’t take into acct that I would score the foam and it gassed along the cut line. I had cut through the sealer I had squeegeed onto the blank, I needed to re-seal along the trim line.
The resin is idiot proof, pull it super dry and it doesn’t drain, I use a plastic auto body sgueegee and after the deck/lower rail edge is done, I raise my rack height and slowly run my squeegee lengthwise along the lap. In this way I can pull about an ounce of resin from under the lap evrey foot or so. I finished a nine footer 12-1/2 pounds, a 5’9" 5 pounds and 2- five-eights 4-1/2 pounds
The 9’0" was double 4 top and bottom with half way deck patch of 4oz.
5’9" has a 6 oz bottom with additional tail patch for fin box and a 7-1/2oz with 4 over it
One 5’8" has a 6 bottom with a 7-1/2 and 4 deck with glass on foam and glass/epoxy sandwich and glass leash loop
the other 5’8" is double 4 each side with all layers wrapping the rails.
I lam them myself, taking the time to really dry out the lams, sand the laps down cleanly, run the top hotcoat under and past the lap edges to pre paste the bottom and then machine sand the bottom lap before hot coating
I’m using the R/Research product and EPS now exclusively. Have done a lot of opaque pigments and a few tints. I’ve begun doing all cutlaps even with clears. Sanding properly and taping your cutlap work with colors is critical to avoid bleeding under along the tape line and sanding scratches. I’ve gone back and cut single layer cutlaps the next day but too soon and you have a gooey mess. Average for me would be 3-6 hours to flip. No more difficult to trim than polyester.
nice boards as always. You gotta be happy about the pinlines on that rocketfish, no? Posca, paint or resin? Sweat nonetheless! Either you’re getting some good waves or your kid must really be ripping with a shortboard like that…
Hey Jim, what is your impression/description of the “bead” rating? GL recommended 2lb “C” bead foam to me, but I am curious how the other beads shape/feel/etc.
I’m glassing a board right now that has perimeter cut stringers. It’s 1 lb density foam inside the stringers and 2# density on the rails. I’m inlaying 6 oz. carbon on the deck and bottom between the stringers which will create a torsion box in the center of the board. This will be very strong and also eliminate much of the twist which robs us of much of our drive. It will also eliminate most of the denting on the deck. The carbon inlays are razor trimmed which was pretty easy. Even though it’s a blind trim (carbon is opaque) I do have the stringers to lay the blade against. They came out nice. The stringers are PVC which has better shear load resistance than wood and they also eliminate twist because of their perimeter placement. The 2# density foam on the rail will set through turns better than if I had left it 1# because of reduced buoyancy and stiffness along the rail. This will also add durability to the D-shaped rail member. The carbon layers are painted with aluminum paint to cover the black. Aluminum paint is very opaque and covers carbon in one coat. The bottom will then be laminated with a single layer 6 oz. impact glass (a new singles yarn glass fabric from Graphite Master in LA). The deck gets two layers of 6 oz. impact glass and all layers are lapped. That will give me the equivalent of 24 oz. of glass on the deck, 18 oz on the bottom and rails (carbon counts double). The whole board is laminated with 2000 resin for stiffness and hot coated with 2020 which should be better in resisting small bump impacts like against the car, in the garage and in the corners of doorways. The finished board should weigh under 7 lbs. Not bad for a 7’6" X 2 7/8 X 20 1/4.
So Greg… what type (specifically)of aluminum paint did you use? I’m planing on making an EPS/epoxy (yours)/carbon board soon. Planning on using a light pigment to cover the carbon.
BTW- I am in the process of procuring some 2.0lb EPS to do some shaping of my own… I wanted to ask you your opinion of going stringer-less… a number of guys do this (Paul Baymore does on some of his boards and suggests that stringers are often optional/unnecessary).
The bottom will then be laminated with a single layer 6 oz. impact glass (a new singles yarn glass fabric from Graphite Master in LA). The deck gets two layers of 6 oz. impact glass and all layers are lapped. That will give me the equivalent of 24 oz. of glass on the deck, 18 oz on the bottom and rails (carbon counts double). The whole board is laminated with 2000 resin for stiffness and hot coated with 2020 which should be better in resisting small bump impacts like against the car, in the garage and in the corners of doorways. The finished board should weigh under 7 lbs. Not bad for a 7’6" X 2 7/8 X 20 1/4.
Yeah, but it is bullet proof??? Homeland Security is ordering boards???
Kidding. Sounds strong. What do your neighbors think?
Real question: how did you cut/get the exact curve into the rail foam?
I’m using the R/Research product and EPS now exclusively. Have done a lot of opaque pigments and a few tints. I’ve begun doing all cutlaps even with clears. Sanding properly and taping your cutlap work with colors is critical to avoid bleeding under along the tape line and sanding scratches. I’ve gone back and cut single layer cutlaps the next day but too soon and you have a gooey mess. Average for me would be 3-6 hours to flip. No more difficult to trim than polyester.
Tom S.
Tomas
Which catalyst are you using and how much time do you have before it gets too hot? Also are you laminating in controlled indoor temps or what mother nature provides?
Posca, paint or resin? Sweat nonetheless! Either you’re getting some good waves or your kid must really be ripping with a shortboard like that…