more shots…better cumulative shot score…more balls?..has a quiver of surfboards become synonomus ?.. is what the man said…Part of the Hemmings quest for recognition of the sport of surfing has been realized…more TV more money for the surfers… I believe a creative self expression level was invisible as I developed self esteem and technical ability…the point when one gets a good wave to oneself and the one one onenessess…open up to the connected flow and you dont get the self critical “you muffed it signal” from your onboard, kuked out alarm …you get the first glimmer of the potential for achieving creative expressive levels of execution…naieve… a condecending adjective from one perspective yet from another…perhaps more expanded level=…The arrogance of technical mastery dilutes the naieve amazement… that we are actually riding these waves in these oceans and we aint dying on contact like an alfred Hitchcoch suicide in a high lattitude…to GET GOOD we have collectively pursued feathers on strings like carrots before donkeys …Since ,the Illustrious Frederico Seversoni sold Us out to the conglomerate market along with the publishing empire as an exploitable demographic (he has done pennance , been duely forgiven and cannonized Saint Severson) …periodicly we regain control of our destiny for short periods of time…only to return to our only inspired state of bliss " goin’ surfin with a couple o’ friends"once the rules and good examples of good surfing by good surfers get so good that good isnt good enough anymore…Good is just another word to pass off medeocrity as good enough to con some ill informed judges into coughing up some PRO-MOTIONAL MONEY…Mark Twain …ole huck an’ jim when they hooked up with the Duke an’ that french exiled orphan Le Dauphine… they put on that there play enough them people got wise an tarred an feathered their hines an rode em outa’ town…well back to the real point which is the unfortunate death of the internal naievequesting wonderment…some will bring the 1966 duke contest required anesthetic into flashback question or perhaps mouldy rye for those still living in massechucetts…but these anticipated jibes aside there is a great deal left to learn beyond the ablilty arrogance some of which is this creative freedom stuff that is hidden from view …now to the good stuff " What is GOOD "…that one page Phil Edwards article in the surfer that irritated the australian transplanted cousins so much…has still not been properly addressed and put to sleep…There must be sombody to stand up and say…“This is the criterion by which all will be judged” This is the center of the spiders web. All that approach the center of the web must deal with the spider…as with the “Longboard Contest rule” it established 9’ as a standard…had it been 3 cubits we would have seen Clark foam adjust to the pressure just the same… the control of the professional body of surfing is still spinning and spinning where will the A.S.P…(an asp is not a spider don’t be frightened)… lead it? they tried to stop the X-GAMES gambit …but woops it got a little slippery …what is good? The benevolent Buffalo of Makaha has spoken volumes staging his annuals, without stirring any silt to muck the clear clear water of the west side…THE HOT CALIFORNIANS retreated and regrouped and 30 years later their progeny aligned with the highly commercial Orange county evolved comercial promotional community and are currently overthrowing the treasury much to the chagrin of those potentially financially affected … Aloha from waipouli ambrose…may you meet your creative oppertunity…after your 100 laps for your COACH at practice…and out live the coaching scars in order to surf again without mobbing waves or making unkind faces at each other , does being a sole surfer have sumthin to do with a tennie shoe manufacturer an does signin’ em give you more sole …M.T.V. Lake Banzai Pipline Minnesota 2006… invisible waves calling you to ride them… …there’s nobody out not even---------that guy----- and they are not a commercial commodity
You could never I mean NEVER EVER submit this to any magazine editorial staphacaucus and remotely expect publication,sorry to you guys that have a hard time figguring this times post out or if you dont intimately know mark twain 's huckleberry finn or some guy named Phil Edwards or JOHN SEVERSON or their relation ship to the last 1000 boards that drove by on the freeway…if there was a campfire at the beach at doheny there might be a ranger there to tell the story of Killer Dana, Baby ,and John Severson and how Phil Edwards saved both John and baby from the blood thirsty serial killer…released soon on the forensic channel "“The lingering fear of Killer Dana long after the burial” for your pleasure , ambrose …back from fluland…glad I’m alive
“well back to the real point which is the unfortunate death of the internal naievequesting wonderment” Sometimes ya spend the first ten years gettin away from rank wonderous beginnerhood, and the next 20 tryin to get it back. Old guys can go back to longboards or single fins for a memory peg. Going to be a little tougher for youth of today to turn 50 and get a retro chip and paddle out…perhaps that’s when a little understanding and slack from certain elements of that wave will finally arise. Personally I went surfing because I had to, no cosmic choice in the matter, and kept surfing just so I wouldn’t have to play golf. I’m not sure I can drink enough to make golf tolerable. The bag o clubs/surfboard quiver analogy, while valid, is tedious to me at this point of life. If I thought I had to load 9 boards for every trip to the beach to be properly equipped, well, I’d rather load them in the conisgnment rack and bodysurf. I sometimes wonder if I already have…(at least the wonder is back).
Surfing isnt golf? Take a look at Al Merrick! What would happen to golfing if only one club got the job done? The comparisons to surfing are obvious! The whole idea is to stay stoked! The more boards, the more possibilities. Why would anyone want to limit thier progression? Today it really says "something" when pull up, everybodys checking you out and your ride is “racked and stacked”!! Yeah baby!!! (to surfing wannabees: that doesnt cut it with sponges tied to the roof!!) Somebody said something like “one board for every three feet of wave height”? If youre any good that applies laterally, too like when its 6 feet, flat faces with onshore chop as opposed to 6 feet, stiff offshores and dredging. Nine boards??? THAT`S JUST A START, BRO!!! Have fun every day… or go away!!!
“Racked and stacked” - another classic turn of phrase, which I think immediately requires a new resource photo catagory. Must include full view of elephant-sized transport vehicle!