re-painting an old board

i want to know if anybody of you have done it before. i want to paint an old board using resin tints. is it like re-hotcoating it again? do i have to sand it? which grain should i use? what is the best way to achieve an uniform color?.now i’m doing the repairing, maybe in 2 days i’m ready for painting it. any advice and help will be welcome. jack.

Wew! Your bitting off a lot. You do have to sand thru 100 grit or even thru 320, Tape off design and paint! Finish resin with lots of pigment( save extra just in case).

Good luck! Edge Fins

Tints won’t cover up the repaired areas, only highlight them. Tints work best on laminations, you really can’t get even coverage on a hotcoat because the thickness of the coat will vary especially after sanding. This is also true even for opaque hotcoats. I’ve done a lot of these, and for me the only way to get opaque coverage and uniform color is to: (1) Laminate 4 oz using an opaque pigment and the same pigment in a hotcoat (2) Paint the board, laminate clear 4 oz. over it, and a clear hotcoat. It’s a lot of work, but the board can be easily repaired and will last.

I’ve read quite few posts advising against doing color work in the hotcoat or gloss but weren’t a lot of the early model boards done in this fashion?

Best,

Herb

Herb, I think you’re right, but there’s a reason it was relatively successful “back when”.

I’ve noticed lately that pigments aren’t as opaque or saturated with color as they oughta be. One of the guys at Fiberglass Hawaii commented that all the really effective and frequently quite hazardous pigment materials(cobalt in blue, cadmium in yellow, lead in white, etc.) are now gone, and the reformulations, though less hazardous are less effective.

I’ve tried just about everybodys pigments and only a few a truly opaque. I mix these with white pigment to get an opaque. I add more of the main color pigment or black to darken it up. However, it really doesn’t matter how opaque the resin is. Unless you build up a massive layer of the colored hotcoat, you’ll have sand-throughs everywhere. Pigmented 4 oz. will give a uniform thickness, and a clear hotcoat will minimize sand-throughs.