Ancient wave riders… were they disadvantaged by never having seen photographic images of themselves?
No - Now how long does it take for the “sealent/non-skid” to dry? Been waiting day’s - had it in the hot box for two of them.
I knew a young surfer who gave away any pictures he received of himself 'cuz he didn’t want to get to vain or proud. When he got old he wished he had 'em, just to see what was up back in the day.
As for being disadavntaged - how could that be.
Hmm…difficult question.
Considering that they tended to be Polynesian royalty, was everybody else saying "Gee, King, that was a great wave you had ( please don’t sacrifice me to the Volcano Goddess or the Shark God, pleasepleaseplease, King, ol’ buddy ol’ pal ) " so they must have happily gone along, doing what they were doing with kinda minimal constructive criticism-type feedback.
“It’s good to be the king” - Mel Brooks
Dale some of us, that are now old and fat, find it a blessing not to see ourselves in photographs or film but we do wish we still had the pictures from our youth. The less documented proof that you have the more you can embellish about that last awesome ride you had!
No. They had the pleasure of riding waves.
I think it was a blessing for them. Once you see the photograph you feel compelled to critique yourself and would probably try to change your surfing to comply with some version of what surfing is supposed to look like rather than just enjoying the ride.
In my case, the photos have never really captured the Simon Anderson type full rail power turns that I thought I was doing and instead showed a knock kneed shoulder hopper throwing zero spray.
To think of the wasted opportunities for future “retro” board and surfwear designs that were lost for the simple lack of cameras. Imagine if you can the Rusty “1809” model. Oh the humanity…
Dale,
In response:
“Although dreams were once powerful, they have been made puerile by the movies, radio and newspapers. Among many betrayals, this one is the worst.”
From Miss Lonelyhearts (& The Day of the Locust) by Nathanael West.
(One of the best books ever written)
Damon
wow! nathaniel west! good one damon…i’m likin’ that as motivation…
for each of our mortal movements…keeping these dreams powerful.
thanks
graven images ,stolen spirits,dont hold a candle to an out of body view… or the shadow on the ground in my moms driveway on oddstad blvd.gave me pause as perhaps the shadow contrast on the bottom at polihale or carmel …shadow crisp contrast on the bright white sand at the clear of dawn… watching the shadow closely mitering each movement to polish off the jerky bumps of zeal… to match with the mysterious white line that prismaticly appears to validate the steepening wall…get ready to duck…as the water so clear impossible to judge otherwise…the true council to the high ranking was ultimately tested for truth in critique…to lose favor truely was life and death deal …no place to mess with the Alii…ambrose…photo…how bout sand paintings or drawings to explain proprtion