Removable nose section

I have this concept of nicking off for a surf over lunch this summer, I work in Sydney CBD and can get to Bondi in a few minutes by motor bike , so I want to be able to store the board under my desk and when the opportunity arrises nick off and get a few hours in. So the concept is to cut 2’6” off the nose and make it detachable, the two sections being easier to store under the desk and transport on the motor bike than a 6’6” board. Also this will allow me to fit the unit into the boot of my car, for those days that I drive in. The only way I can think of doing this to use dowles similar to fixing a broken board. Then using a clip, tie, or duct tape to hold the two ends together. I figure if I make the cut just above where I push to duck dive then I should be Ok for strength and not affect the flex of the board too much. Are there any thoughts of how this can be best done. I basically just want to have a nose section that clips on and off. I have seen the pope bisect so this is a similar concept, also I am not interested in body boarding until I prove this impracticle.

amazing timing, i was just talking to a guy this morning that wants me to do a board for him like that. he wants to avoid airline charges when traveling. here’s his basic plan (i’m not sure if it would work): cut off the nose, put it back in place and wrap with a few layers of cloth much like you would repairing a broken board. now you have a removable nose with a fiberglass “sleeve” on it. my modifications to his design include using high dense foam inset into the both ends where the cut off is, and sealing these ends. also, insert a couple of plastic plugs on the deck and screw the sleeve to the plugs. the big question, aside from performance,is how strong/weak this configuration would be, and how cost effective it would be for me to do it as opposed to paying airlines their ridiculous fees.

amazing timing, i was just talking to a guy this morning that wants me to do a board for him like that. he wants to avoid airline charges when traveling. here’s his basic plan (i’m not sure if it would work): cut off the nose, put it back in place and wrap with a few layers of cloth much like you would repairing a broken board. now you have a removable nose with a fiberglass “sleeve” on it. my modifications to his design include using high dense foam inset into the both ends where the cut off is, and sealing these ends. also, insert a couple of plastic plugs on the deck and screw the sleeve to the plugs. the big question, aside from performance,is how strong/weak this configuration would be, and how cost effective it would be for me to do it as opposed to paying airlines their ridiculous fees.

I can’t remember the name of board, but they do this for long boards divide it in half. Good idea guys…keep working on it.

I can’t remember the name of board, but they do this for long boards divide it in half. Good idea guys…keep working on it.

Thanks funny thing is that I thought of this yesterday myself, had a bit of a brain wave, I intend to cut the board in a V shape with the point of the V to the nose, this should give it a bit more side ways resistance, glass the ends to seal them and then glass over the V to form a sleave as you describe. I will use Vaso for a release agent or I have read PVA works too. The only thing is the joining plug, I dont want anything that needs a tool , a simple half twist to lock would be advantageous, need to work on that one. Thanks for the help, the prototype of Fankenboard ( from Frankenstein where his head is held on with bolts) shall be brought into existance this weekend. If you have any Ideas with the plug let me know. What amazes me is how often the same thing is thought up in different places around the world at the same time. Andy

Andy: There is already a refined solution for the home builder out there. I contacted a surfer in Australia some 2 years ago who was about to market a product much like a fin box or a plug set that would allow a backyard builder to split your board in half. See if you can locate Angus Honey, he may have the solution you are looking for. Let me know if you find him, all of my contact e-mails and web addresses. Tom S.

Hey all. I’ve been in contact with Angus over the last year about this product. He is into a major development phase right now…having new molds made…testing product, etc. He will have different versions…one for longboards and another for shortboards. It’s going to be a little while yet before he has things ironed out, but it sounds like he’s getting close. I’ll be designing a webpage for him when he feels the product is ready and I’ll be sure to make a posting here to let everyone know the URL so you can check it out. Later Dee

Cant wait literally to see it, but Frankenboard wont be delayed, you know what its like with us mad scientists, once you start something you have to finish it either way. I am not interested in any commercial activity of this sort so I wont be cutting his grass, just want to get a few surfs in over lunch. I have also been thinking of using a knello, they are shorter and wider so I need only gut a small amount off, you can stand on a knello cant you? dont want to be mistaken for a super chook. I would think that this would be a great idea for the soft foam boards, like the Mac T, as they are moulded and can have the hard plastic pieces moulded in place similar to the Pope Bisect board. Lets see what happens. Andy

What about a removable tail section, then you could have a swallow a pin or whatever and just swap them out. Now there is a marketable idea.

I have thought about some kind of hinge type deal to fold it in half with no luck.Maybe someone out there can make something of it. R.B.

pope bisects, www.bisect.com. They are now in cahoots with boardworks so they are offereing smaller boards (including 6’10 fish).

andy, as for the removable tail section, i was thinking of that after replying to your post. great minds think alike? yuk,yuk. anyway, my sleeve solution wouldn’t (in my mind) work in the tail area as you would jack with your water flow and board shape in a most important area of your board. but that brings up my other bisect solution, and i think i’m thinking like that dude angus on this one (although i’m not sure), but the plan is to get some solid surface material (scraps from a cabinet maker friend) and form two rigid slots in the board on both sides of the break on either side of the stringer (much like you would fixing a broken board) and then insert a piece of solid surface material in the slot and screwing it to the slot to reattach the two pieces. the solid surface material is workable, you can cut it and sand it, i’ve used it to repair a broken fin box (but that’s a different story), and resin seems to adhere to it. pretty verbose and i’m not sure if i’ve made my idea clear or just cloudy, but dammit, it might just work!!!

I have just spent the weekend fixing all the dings in my old Tom Curren board, it looked so good that it pained me to cut it in half. So I measured it to fit into the boot and cut 2ft off the nose in a straight cut, using my circular saw and a jig that I have to cut straight. It cut beautifully and I have sealed the end sections with glass and resin, I just need to sand them down and then form the sleave. So its looking good. And weight wise it might add a few hunderd grams, not too bad. I decided not to cut a V section because of the amount of glass needed to form the sleave. The V has a longer joint to cover in the sleave. Now what I am thinking is that this idea could be used so that you could turn your standard 6’6" into a 6"10 just for those bigger days by fitting the longer nose section. So you would have a board with your ideal back half of the board and then multiple noses for different days when you might need alonger board to paddle into the waves.Then you wouldnt need to go home for the bigger board just fit the longer nose and you could carry a few boards around at once all in the safety of the boot of your car. In relation to the removable tail I agree the sleave would not work on the bottom section, it would still work on the top but the wax would be an issue, you would probably have to stop the sleave at the bottom of the rail. I was actually thinking that if a flexible piece of rubber were used like a large hinge between the two pieces then you would also be able to change the rocker shape under the tail by putting more or less weight on the back foot. The flexability would also reduce the need for excesve glassing. The joint on the bottom could be covered with a strip or flap of thin flexible rubber, fixed on the front half of the board only, duct tape would also do the trick but not ideal. Didnt Geroge Greeno have some sort of flexible tail design in the 70s?. For most of us though this would only be a novelty.