Just curious if anyone has used gorrilla glue to set a broken board? In the past I've always applied resin w/ a little SillCell, stuck the pieces back together, clamped it level and tight, sanded down after drying and reglassed. But I was curious if anyone has done the same approach but with the gorrilla glue to set it first?
One time i found a Costco Foam surfboard broken in half left in the beach, took it home bought some GG poured the hell out it in to the snap, clamped it, took it to the beach just ike that even with the dried foam pouring out, its still holding up. Just you know i did brake the board again(was trying to surf the board with two more guys on it :D), it was no where near the GG fix, just shows you how strong that glue is! Almost forgot to mention, you have to support whatever you are doing the glue expands a lot!
I use it quite a bit when attaching bottom skins and HD rails as well as installing HD fin box foam inserts,HD leash cup inserts etc…
Stuff is great… No worries here… More flexible and easier to sand than epoxy as well…
Due to it’s foaming nature, it’s lighter than epoxy also…
Lightly spritz one or even both halves of your broken board with water prior to applying G.G.
Pat the dampened area with a dry paper towel as you want very little moisture… This causes the glue to foam up and become a lighter softer glue line that expands into all the small crevices especially in eps…
If you don’t want this and prefer a harder glue line . then don’t spritz…
If you want to join it with minimum weight gain, original flex you need to: 1)align the 2 pieces with wood stringers and clamps 2) put it in a jig so it won’t move 3) drill and inject 2-part polyurethane foam 8# density into the joint and plug the injection holes so the foam migrates into every recess. 4) grind and flare ~ 6"-10" from the foam seam 5) 2-3 layers of glass/epoxy over preped area 6) sand and fare tube patch flush with original laminate 7) fill with 2-part epoxy filler 8) sand and prime 9) paint.
I wouldn’t hesitate to use it. I’ve used it for everything from snaps, foam inlays to gluing up stringers - all pu/pe - besides on a lot of woodwork on an everyday basis.
Apply pressure while the glue cures, the repair can be stronger than the original foam plus it’s lighter than a resin job.
I always wear nitrile gloves when working with “the big Gorilla” because it stains your skin.
Also, always store the dispenser upside down because the stuff degenerates when exposed to the small amount of air in the bottle - if you’re not going to be using it all in a fairly short period of time.
They do recommend the misting pre-gluing but I’ve never had a problem skipping that step.