Any tips? I just got my replacement in the mail. It seems you can just screw the wires in except for the top one. Do I need to solder that one on? This will be my first attempt at tool repair!
http://www.milwaukeetool.com/parts-service/download-manuals - see ‘parts list and wiring instructions’ for your particular sub-model. Usually such wires slip into a slot or hole and are held in by a kind of non-reurn clip inside the trigger.
I’ll also note that the way you run the wires inside the handle and etc. can be important on some Milwaukees.You’ll also see that info in the manuals.
hope that’s of use
doc…
Doc....
Is this Doc...you are Alive!!!!!!!
Thank goodness you are alive..I wrote you off about 2 years ago?
Great to cyber you.
Thanks for the links, Doc. The parts people sent me the same thing. I just went for it and did just fine the wire I was concerned about seems to just be a ground for the speed dial. Piece of cake.
Doc!!!Where ya been man. Hope you stay around. Your knowledge is needed.
Hey look what the cat dragged in!!! 
Long time no see Doc, figured you retired/holed up on some deserted isle with a sweet young wahine
The wire is very easy to break off the terminal for the top one, use needlenose pliers. The Milwaukee service drawings are two sheets that include an exploded parts diagram and wiring instructions, and the wiring sheet shows the routing. If you don’t follow this the wires will get pinched when the handle halves are put together.
Hi Doc, glad to hear from you again.
Hey, all;
Alive and well, for a given value of ‘well’. No desert island, instead a sandspit and a wahine of legal age and thousands and thousands of oysters. Kind of you to think I know something…but I just play that guy on TV, ya know?
doc…
Did you check the other end of the soldered wire? Sometimes on Milwaulkee tools, the wires are held in with a spring clamp. They put a little solder on the wire, so the strands don’t come undone. Take a small like 4 penny finish nail in some pliers. ** WITH THE POWER OFF** push the point of the nail along side the wire that is held in the clamp and into the hole. That will release the wire. Then with the same wire, push it into the hole on the new switch.
I don’t know of any switch that needs soldered wire connectors. But I’ve never changed the switch on this sander either.
And Doc, It is good to have a Sways Legend back again.
Yep- what I meant by my misspelt and poorly worded ‘non-reurn clip’, much like the little holes you find in the newer house wiring stuff like outlets and switches where instead of bending the end of the stripped wire around a brass screw before tightening said screw, you just strip a short bit of the wire, give it a twist and push it in. Getting it out, just as described, the awl blade on a Leatherman or similar will work too if it’s narrow/thin enough. Think of ‘chinese handcuffs’ and you have the basic concept.
As an aside, I’ve been doing a fair amount of boat wiring of late and I have found that ‘tinning’ the end of a wire ( twist, flux, heat, solder, done) like that makes for a better connection and is less likely to fail from corrosion over time. Though that might be me hoping that if I really do it up complete it’s gonna hold up better and not fail on me some dark night out on the water.
doc…not a legend, more like a nasty rumor