I did my first gloss coat last night. I taped the board off at the rail and proceeded to gloss coat. I pulled the tape when the resin was goign off.
I noticed that alot of the adhesive of the masking tape was left on the board. I used a cheap brand but I’m surprised because this has never happened when I’ve hot coated a board.
Was it a difference in the resins that caused this.
I plan to use a little IPO (iso-propyl alcohol) to clean off the adhesive or if any of you guys of any better way to do it
Yes IPO will take it off. Use a better quality tape next time. This used to never happen, but I have noticed problems with even some of the better tapes latly. Must be that animal fat glue they use in China. Sticks to everything like lard(Crisco) McDing
Brian, That darn residue isn’t easy to remove. I tried lots of solvents, even the stuff they make to remove tape residue, but with mixed and sometimes gooey results.
The best thing is to use 3M tape 233 as stated before. (the green stuff) It was developed to be used with lacquer paints, so the glue is resistant to breakdown from solvents.
If you do end up with tape gunk, the best way I’ve found to get it off is to take a SHARP chisel and lightly scrape the glue while holding the chisel just a little off of 90 degrees. Hold it with the flat side toward you at 90 degrees, then tilt the handle toward you about 15 degrees, and pull the blade toward you while applying light pressure. The blade will scrap off the glue cleanly.
My theory as to why you got residue with the gloss and not the hotcoat, is that the gloss resin probably took longer to gel, so the styrene had more time to work it’s evil magic on the tape. Doug
You’re probably correct with the styrene having more time to do it’s evil thing as it did take slightly longer to gel. I also added 3% extra sanding agent to the gloss resin to make it flow really good which probably didn’t help.
I agree with Doug about the tape and gloss resin.Sometimes you can get the goo off by just sticking some more tape on it and it might pull up.Those erasers they make for cleaning sanding belts will also work.Seems like Kokua had another answer for this problem.He may tune in. RB
Howzit Bagman, When you say the new 233 tape do you mean the green 233+, I tried it when that was all Fiberglass Hi. had. They said that 3M was not going to make 233 tape anymore but I guess that isn’t the case since I can get it again at F.H… One thing I learned is that some is made in USA and some is made in Canada so where it’s made is a factor when it comes to quality. I have noticed that when a gloss takes to long to kick there will be adhesive residue left on the board. As far as removing it I remove it with another piece of tape which does the job.Aloha,Kokua
Kokua, how ya been? The new 223 is the green. I was talking to Sammy (the glasser for Cooperfish surfboards) a few months ago. He said he was having to go out of the country to get good 223 tape. I’m only guessing that he was talking about South America. It may have been Canada, there EPA laws really are lax up there, so that just may be where he was going to get his.
I used to laugh at some of the posts like “Which masking tape should I use?” It isn’t such a dumb question though. 3M’s tape catalog alone is a bit overwhelming.
The blue tape designed for extended use (2090) has never left adhesive residue when I’ve used it. It doesn’t stick to foam as well as 233 for colored lams but for hot coats and gloss it works OK. Seems like it’s in the ballpark pricewise (maybe a little cheaper?) with 233.
For some fine edge work like pinlines, etc. there is special tape just for that purpose.
Howzit John, I beleive the long last blue tape is used for house painting and I tried it years ago with some success but I have seen it leave residue when left on to long after resin is used with it, plus it’s not cheap. 3M 2050 was the industry standard years ago but it isn’t the same any more. I talked extensivly with Fiberglass Hi a few years ago about tapes and that’s when I learned that 3M had a factory in Canada not to far from their factory in Mich. The puzzler is you don’t really know which factory your tape is from, which makes for inconsistency of it’s quality. It’s the heat of the resin kicking that causes the residue and 1 trick I use is to let the resin cool down before pulling the tape in some applications,This works.PPG makes a pretty good tape for resin but so far I’ve only been able to find it in 3/4" width. Aloha,Kokua
I notice that some tapes are listed as 1" or whatever and some are 18mm, etc. Maybe metric sizes are made elsewhere - (Canada?) This place lists the blue and the 233+. I think the 3/4" is about the same width as the 18mm. Price for 3 rolls of blue = 12.18. 3 rolls of 233+ = 11.38.
I’m having the same problems…Just thought it was normal…
That’s why I like Swaylocks!
With all the fresh resin on the board I didn’t want to use chemicals so I just run my thumb along the tape residue to push it into globs and take it off.
Garage Builder , not Pro ,I will look into some 3M 233+
I picked up some masking tape today at Office Depot. Their private brand called “Wallsafe masking tape”, which claims “easy release”, “low adhesion”, and “made in USA for / Fabrique” .