Im making a resin nose block for a Weber Afterburner that i bought that had a snapped nose and then it was somewhat reattached and a bit of the tip of the nose was cut off for some reason? I was wondering if at all, the weight of the noseblock would affect how the board rides and performs? Just a thought/question. -Cam
How big of a block do you plan to make? How much of the nose is missing?
It’s my opinion that on most pointy-nose shortboards you could simply cut off three inches and they won’t ride any differently. If the missing part is less than an inch or two, just round it off and glass it.
It’s about 4 inches long and then the missing piece is about 6 inches i think? its one of the newer weber epoxy boards with an eps core so i dont want to round it off, if it was a regular board with a blank and glass job i wold but its an eps core with a high density foam skin over that and then an epoxy job over that.
Well, is it 4 or 6?
As always, when asking about a repair photos go a long way in defining the problem.
4" or 6", either way it sounds to me like a pure resin nose block would be heavy and ugly, especially on a HPSB.
If I were you, I’d saw a clean, straight cut off the nose, then glue or epoxy a block of EPS (with wood dowels inside) to the nose. Then shape the EPS to the desired nose shape. Then glass to match rest of board as best as possible.
Plus the fact that a solid resin block would be really shatter prone. Using only resin to build up large areas is a bad idea. Without some kind of reinforcement within the mass of resin it will have very little impact resistance and you’ll find yourself repairing it over and over. With a loss of 4" or more on the nose, foam is the way to go. I say this having not yet seen the actual condition of the board, so it is only an educated guess at a solution, at best.
Thanks for all the input guys, what I was saying was that the resin block was 4" and the piece of the board that was cut off was about 6". Im just going to make a new wood nose block and then drill two holes in it for dowells. Here’s a picture of the board right after i got it, since then I have fixed it where it snapped and have leveled off the missing nose section. -Cam
These pics look more like the “after” version. If I was going to repair it, I’d just glue an oversized piece of foam to the flat cutoff, shape it to a decent profile, then glass it with probably three layers of 4 oz in steps. Two layers stepped onto the original part, and one layer just in the repair area. Wood will add unnecessary weight and be harder to shape. Plus, since it looks like a spray finish and you could really disguise the repair with a coat of white epoxy spray paint after it’s glassed.