Is it really odorless? So, could I glass in my basement now instead of outside?
Can you mix pigment with it?
Does it go on in the usual, lam coat, hotcoat, gloss coat order?
What makes it better than old fashioned polyester resin?
How fast does it cure compared to poly resin?
Thanks, I just couldn’t find enough answers out there and want to get some feedback before I make the plunge.
-Hanlon
No, but certainly less than poly.
Yes, you can add pigments.
Yes…
STRONGER
RR cures differently than polyesters, but for garage builders this is better, trust me…
Where a mask regardless of what anyone here says, because VOC’s are in the additives. Wear gloves and never clean drips on skin with acetone. Follow directions.
No, but certainly less than poly.
Yes, you can add pigments.
Yes…
STRONGER
RR cures differently than polyesters, but for garage builders this is better, trust me…
Where a mask regardless of what anyone here says, because VOC’s are in the additives. Wear gloves and never clean drips on skin with acetone. Follow directions.
Awesome. Thanks for answering my questions! Any opinion on what type to use for big longboards? They seem to have a number of products with varying cure times.
only if your basement is ventilated, much lower VOCs, should still wear a mask
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yes, just like you would with poly, mix the color in before you mix the epoxy and hardner, mix well but don't add bubbles
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yes
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harder/stronger, longer work times, less VOCs, better for env, use much less than poly (search for RR guidelines for amount/usage guidelines, way less than you will be used to using with poly), saturates the cloth better
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slower than poly, depends on room temp and which hardner you use. there is a slow, a fast and even an accelerator additive; in the winter I warm mine first before I mix it... put inside a box with a space heater blowing under it... hot box; then while in the vac-bag (compsand tech) I cover with a tarp and put the space heater under the table to keep the temp up during the cure
Oh and DON’T use acetone with epoxy.
Hell, I've bathed in the stuff. One time I fell into a 5000 gal vat of the shit....no problem. I drink it, I cook with it, I even use it on my surfamabords.
Noticably stronger than poly, at least in my opinion.
A tip I found last time after getting epoxy all over my hands.Gojo or the citrus based pumice cleaners work wonders in cleaning epoxy off your hands.
I clicked your link. Ditch the web page. You are not a Pro if you cannot do RR Epoxy in 2011. Live and learn my friend.
Please check out this Swaylock's Thread.
http://www2.swaylocks.com/forums/first-epoxy-glass-job-
I'm not a Pro...I do Poly and epoxy...........
Stingray
Wow, thanks for nothing Stingray. Living in New Hampshire where there is ZERO surfboard industry requires that small production shapers ask around before trying out new products. I have used polyester resin for a while but am simply looking for something less toxic. And by the way, I hope your shaping is better than your web skills because your link doesn’t work.
-Hanlon
If I may jump in here because I know Ray well. I will paraphrase his respones:
RR is easy to use. There are only 2 things you need to be semi careful about. 1) mixing ratios (do it by volume, not weight) and 2) room temp. (below 60 ish you syart to get problems) But it's nothing short of the same problems with poly..too much cat, or room is too cold etc.
Beyond that it's easier to use than poly because you have more work time.
It takes color...but your eps blank wont unless you prep it right.
It is orderless, but waer a mask just in case.And especially if you are enclosed
It sands better than poly.
It takes longer to kick and cure....but whats time to a hog? probably adds an extra day to your entire build process.
Also Ray was saying that we have discussed this and it's all in the archives. Some schmucks have problems with it, but you can chalk that up to operator error ....refer back to points 1 and 2.
So who's a seal sniffer now big boy?
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RR is easy to use. There are only 2 things you need to be semi careful about. 1) mixing ratios (do it by volume, not weight) and 2) room temp. (below 60 ish you syart to get problems) But it's nothing short of the same problems with poly..too much cat, or room is too cold etc.
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Good summation. Except doing mix by weight works well also (FWIW, that's how my composites heros do it)
Temperatures are going to be an issue for the OP in New Hampshire winters. The resin, blank, and ambient should all be 70F+ for the best results.
It’s currently 15 deg F outside so thanks for the info on temperature. :) I’m going to spend the rest of the winter shaping about 3 boards and will try out the Resin R. epoxy in the spring. It sounds like a good product, but I’m really looking forward to using something that doesn’t stink as bad a poly resin.
I have tried this resin, as I was told you can filler coat with poyester, after cleaning off the oily epoxy finish, so did this but the adhesion is terrible every time I knock the board it delams.
I’ve gone back to using epoxy for all stages, even though a little slower and more expensive.
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Wow, thanks for nothing Stingray. Living in New Hampshire where there is ZERO surfboard industry requires that small production shapers ask around before trying out new products. I have used polyester resin for a while but am simply looking for something less toxic. And by the way, I hope your shaping is better than your web skills because your link doesn't work.
-Hanlon
www.hanlonlongboards.com
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Hello Hanlon ,
You're right...the link does not work. I did a copy and paste from a Swaylock's thread. A good thread....One you might want to read. The thread title is "First Epoxy Glass Job ?'s". Let me know if you need help with the search function. It does not always work right. Not my problem.
I'm not always nice. I don't always say the right thing.....I've screwed up a lot of stuff. I can help you build a better surfboard. Do the search. Read the thread. Don't glass at 15 degrees F.
Thanks for watching my back Resinhead.
Stingray...ThinskinSkinRay...Bufflehead......
No worries Stingray. we New Hampshire surfers are a bit detatched from our California bretheren and are just really starting out when it comes to building great boards. I’m definitely looking forward to trying epoxy in the spring, when I can see my lawn again and don’t need to climb over a mountain of snow to get to the waves. Although I recommend that every surfer surf in a snowfall at least once!
I’m working on my 18th HWS and have glassed all with RR. The last 2 have been nightmares! I and getting a milky finish and my lams and hot coat. I glassed this fin yesterday and hot coated it today.
Resin in my had is a dried puddle and the fin was glassed with 3 layers of 6oz cloth.
I live on So Cal and the weather has been in the 70’s…and one else run into this problem??
thanks
Dave
White glass-on fish fins with fin rope and 2 layers of 6 oz cloth....no problem....epoxy....
Shortboard thruster glass-ons no problem.....epoxy....
9" Orange longboard fin with 5 layers of cloth....ugly.....epoxy....not happy....
I think your problem is "froth".....the more cloth you have , the more you need to work it...and then you get micro bubbles or whatever......froth...it sucks.......I thought I did a really good longboard glass on. I know it's strong. It looks like hell!
I should have done 2 layers at a time...and I mean 2 layers let it cure , sand , 2 more layers.......
I could be wrong...and....wood has other issues........
ThinSkinRay :)
Your overworking the resin for too long. This is creating air bubbles that are trapped as the resin starts to thicken. You can lower the visocity and release the air by the gentle application of heat through a blow dryer. Once it becomes more liquid rework the panels gently to remove excess air. It works… Try to finese not so hard. Laminating is not just getting the resin in but getting the resin and air out. Do not overheat, just warm. Technique is used by master wood canoe builders.
this was room temp…about 65 degrees. Mixed in a cup 2:1 ratio with Additive F, then gently applied with a brush. Over worked?.. stirring to hard n the pot? The remaining resin in the pot looks the same and it wasnt touch.
That changes things a bit, what was the temperature of the Additive F? If it is to cold the wax will rise to the surface and perhaps the wax ratio is too high because it came out of solution. Another thing are you dilligent about keeping your resin containers closed? The introduction of air, can over time have an effect on your hardener like you see on the side of the container. Here is a technique that works for me: Get the ratios right; mix the crap out of the stuff and mix some more. I wait a few minutes and let the bubbles rise out of solution (they will rise to the surface) and then proceed.
