How does someone go about doing a resin swirl in a panel, something like this?
http://istumbler.imeem.com/video/hxFLoMCZ/bill_hickey_painting_a_surfboard/
Tape it off.
Use acrylics.
Blues music and VW bus optional.
Instructional video courtesy of Alf the local computer nerd and Bill Hickey the artist and shaper.
Blakestah, isn’t there an increased risk of delam doing that way? Maybe even more so on EPS?
Looks nice and simple though, rather than doing cut out panels of glass…
I can’t quite tell from the video, so I am assuming that this is on top of a sanded finish board and not directly on to the foam. Blakestah, can you confirm this ?
I’ll chime in here and say, nope, no worries. As long as the paint is acrylic and not too thick, delams shouldn’t happen on EPS or PU. I was wondering, has anyone tried this on a sanded finish? I’m thinking about doing a tester here in a minute. Seems like the paint would smear out too thin.
Old school panel are layed up on the sanded hotcoat. Sand your Hotcoat, tape your pattern off real tight…I mean press the tape down hard, no bleeding. Then squeegee your resin swirl down, make the batch hot so the resin doesn’t have time to work its way under the tape and melt the adhesive (bleeding). pull tape when resin is like snot (just like pinlines) and lightly sand so the gloss can adhere. Gloss as usual. Think of it as just a giant pinline.
-resinhead
Right on the foam…not too thick…avoid the stringer (or scrape paint off before lamming
This is of course an acrylic swirl and not a resin swirl, but it looks awesome under gloss.
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I was wondering, has anyone tried this on a sanded finish? I’m thinking about doing a tester here in a minute. Seems like the paint would smear out too thin.
Doesn’t really work well on a sanded finish.You need a pourous surface for the paint or resin soak in to. On EPS, make sure that the pigment load in the paint or resin is strong and not too diluted or it will squegee out too light. This is a swirl done on EPS with acrylic paints.
Quote:
Old school panel are layed up on the sanded hotcoat. Sand your Hotcoat, tape your pattern off real tight....I mean press the tape down hard, no bleeding. Then squeegee your resin swirl down, make the batch hot so the resin doesn't have time to work its way under the tape and melt the adhesive (bleeding). pull tape when resin is like snot (just like pinlines) and lightly sand so the gloss can adhere. Gloss as usual. Think of it as just a giant pinline.-resinhead
do you use sanding resin or lam resin?
Blakestah, you’ve been making a rotating finbox since 1999?
No…the camera reset. Summer 2003 were the first prototype singles…first 3 fins were in 2005.
You can do resin swirl panels on either the foam or the hotcoat.On the foam I use laminating resin and a squeegee.On the hotcoat I use gloss resins and a brush.You have to scuff up the color work to cut the wax before glossing.On hot coat panels I always do the perimeter pinlines first.I have never use acrylic before so I can’t comment. RB (one good thing about doing this on the hotcoat is that if you mess up you can redo the job.Not so on foam)
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Quote:I was wondering, has anyone tried this on a sanded finish? I’m thinking about doing a tester here in a minute. Seems like the paint would smear out too thin.
Doesn’t really work well on a sanded finish.You need a pourous surface for the paint or resin soak in to. On EPS, make sure that the pigment load in the paint or resin is strong and not too diluted or it will squegee out too light. This is a swirl done on EPS with acrylic paints.
Hell with the paint! I wish I could shape a longboard that looks like that. As someone on here would say “dimensions please”
Thanks
Hi Guys
If your applying paint to an EPS blank would you need to spackle/mircoballon first? Keen not to cock up my first EPS blank.
I also found a couple of years ago that if you cock up spraying a poly blank you can carefully blow it off with air, don’t take my word for it but it got me out of trouble.
cheers Joe
I use sanding resin because you need to lightly scratch it up so you can gloss over it.
as a refugee from a strict to confining art ciriculum
I have persued the act of resin color application since 1968
the year that surfers took the process back into hand.
senior art refugee Bill hicky some what led the way.
color app then was revolutionarily done
on the foam with the laminating coat on foam.
these jobs are easily identified by the visible disparity of resin density
in fiberglass and intermittent thinner voids
betwixt the strands of thread making up the weave.
older school on the sanding coat
were sometimes called tuti fruti.
the waikiki guys always talk of ‘‘jigs?’’
as the guy who often did the tuti fruiti jobs
at kuhio beach.
late nineties I began to toy with the color on foam upgrade.
after the freelap clear bottom
move to the deck and begin with one color at a time
catalized independently and apply to foam as drip and occasional smear
subsequent colors applied before and after the set up of former colors
allow for blends and color morphs
and transparent overlays
the control of which
makes or breaks the end result.
aka makes: dynamic pallete of color interplay
carrying the eye from kaliedescopic nebula to galaxy and back
through dimensional rorscach viewer interpreted oracle
breaks aka: orchid glow mudscape
after color ap done then hotcoat with clear
sand to dimension and then glass.
essentially a complex filler coat.
no justification for this much work.
streamlined production methods and acrylix
are much quicker and lighter.
advantage goes to durabillity
color clarity and a good time.
swirl is a simplification
for this process
zen color excercise
at least.perhaps
neauveau pollock
or pollock’s 21century
progeny surfs.
…ambrose…
zen color excercise
in tint and pigment
as for eps
color foam then
do filler coat
with colorless filler
aerosil?
a bit off topic, but here’s a pic of a Damien Hirst Beach Beat board (he of the formaldehyde cow, shark, etc artwork), saw it at Chops Lascalles Beach Beat surf shop in St Agnes, Cornwall a year or so ago, Chops said that even he could not work our exactly how Damian did the spray. Just read that a couple of these boards were recently auctioned and raised GBP£59k (yes that is nearly US$120,000 for 2 boards) for S.A.S. (Surfers Against Sewage).
thats prett ace, never seen the bottom of hirst’s boards before! am i right in saying these were the boards auctioned around 2004? seem to remember a magazine spread with them on around then…
just found this, more pics of his boards amoungst others…
http://www.btinternet.com/~smallritual/section3/longboards.html
back on topic, on another of his boards http://www.swaylocks.com/resources/detail_page.cgi?ID=1291&d=1
he says he did a swirl in the lam. so am i getting it right if i say:
-lay glass on the blank
-tape off area
-swirl
-lam as normal?
i’d imagine dry glass would be hard to tape etc. and would bleed no?
T
iconostatic, you’re almost right (or so I think):
-
TAPE the blank first
-
THEN lay the glass
-
Do your swirl/artwork
-
Wait for resin to go off
-
Cut along the tape, just like you would do for a rail cutlap
-
Do the deck side
looks good. was that done on the sanded finish? I am trying to do the same on my longboard but on the bottom side. I want to use yellow, red, and green. What paint would you recommend. And how do you apply it.