Austin,Are you flipping the 4oz all the way under or just letting it go to the center of the rail.Seems like by going to the center it would be easy to clean up before hotcoating.Maybe zip it off with a blade?Or maybe you just hot coat it without touching the 4oz.???
Coque,
That’s a really nice looking job… I was never a huge fan of swirls but that one really caught my attention…
Keep it going!
HerbB
Coque that is unreal.Heck you don’t need no glassing video.(I emailed Damscus and twisted a few arms for you anyway) RB
Thanks Herb and Cleanlines, i’m just your hands, and Swaylocks is the brain…
I made a lot of mistakes on this board, so i learned a lot, and i’ll make a lot more, i’m sure. Now i’m making a pair of big keel fins made from wood that also are my first fins, and i think that foiling them will be like shaping two little boards.
In fact i made my two biggest mistakes on this board.
The first big one, i was doing the clear lam job on the deck and i don’t know what happened, but i was using the same mix as always (at least i think so), but it was a really hot day, and i was beginning the job with the squeege and there wasn’t any resin on the rails, and in few seconds, all the resin that was on the container and on the cloth was getting really hot and hard… you can picture it, a lot of bubbles and wrinkles on the cloth, and no resin on the rails. I’m lucky that the first think i did (with out thinking about it one second) was to get of all the cloth holding the board with one hand and pulling the cloth with the other one… man the polyester is a better glue than what i thought. Then i quit all the resin i could with a harder squeege… really funny now that i remember the situation.
The second big mistake was a classic. My girlfriend phone me just before starting the hot coat, and i was with the catalyst container on my hand, so i finished the phone call thinking that i already mixed everything, and i did the job just with resin and parafine… after several minutes i thought that something went wrong, i saw at the little catalyst container and i realized what happened… Again, i found myself cleaning the resin.
Today i’ll start the polish work, we’ll see what happens.
hey cleanlines. we wrap it to the middle of the rail just like you said. zip it with a 36 grit disc and then hotcoat. it actually smooths out the clear deck freelap strings on the bottom extremely well. The hotcoat comes out real smooth afterwards. Austin
How did you do that sweet swirl or whatever it is. I have no clue.
Thanks
your the man austin!
thanks for the kind words gene. you set the bar so high. I just try to get remotely close. One day ill have to leave the east coast and come check your stuff out in person instead of just pictures. Your laps are insanely clean and your boards are beautiful. My goal is to have laps like yours by the time i am 22. That gives me about 8 months to practice. Any good hints for me? thanks again.
Hey Hey 
Why does you situation seem so familiar. The same happend to me on one hot day only thing was it was on the first layer and my responces where not so good I had to reshape the board.
Someone also phone me while I was gloss coating I was so into the call that I didn’t relize that I had grabed the wrong container and I gloss coated with normal resin. Now my phone gets left in the house if I am glassing.
cheers
Even if I have my phone on me or the house phone rings I just don’t touch it if I have poured any resin to a bucket. It saves lots of trouble and you can always explain, “I was glassing a board and I couldn’t talk.”
Yes i learned the lesson, no phones when you’re with resin or shaping rails…
Do you remember what i said yesterday? i’ll have more mistakes on this board… Well yesterday i come to my fathers house (where’s my shaping bay) to see that the wood keel fins i started didn’t bond with the polyester…
Spazman, yesterday a friend that also posts here asked me the same, this is what i told him:
"The resin swirl was really easy, i mean, a lot easier than the
opaque bottom. I taped the deck, then i mixed in three separate containers one
with some resin with green pigment, another one with resin and just white
pigment, and the third one with resin, white pigment and green pigment getting a
light green. Then i mixed well the resin and the pigment in each container, and
i added the catalyst to each container, and mixed again.
Then i throwered a portion of each mix in one big container (resulting
with more amount than the one you’ll use to a normal lam job), without
mixing it, i mean all together but you can see each color in the container,
then i proceed as on a normal lam job, using the squeeque to make flow the
lines… believe me, i was really afraid, but is really easy.
Hope this helps, but i think you'll find better advice in the
archives. Swaylocks is a jewell man!"
Now i have to restart my fins (2nd time i do that) and i have to polish my board… 900 $ for a Cooperfish, Mandala, Rich Pavel, Jim Phillips, Campbell Bros, Stu Kenson, or anything like that sounds now really cheap to me.
For the Wood Mimic:
You follow steps 1 through 3 as above then:
- We filled 6 small buckets will various shades of brown from light to dark (about a quart), 1/4 small bucket of burgandy, 1/4 small bucket of an off yellow (leaning towards brown).
*Hint- for most of our resin work you MUST have help. Things go off to quick to do it by yourself!
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We set the brown buckets out in a row first one light, next one dark, next one light, etc…
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Fire off all the buckets.
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Take your first brown bucket and pour a little dark brown accent in it, also take a little burgandy accent and pour that in it. Gently swirl one or two times.
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Here is the main difference with the wood mimic. To get the “board” effect we dumped the first bucket in a line straight down the board. Take the next bucket mix in your accent colors (this time because the color is darker brown use a light brown accent with one of the other accent colors (yellow or red) and dump this long ways starting at the opposite end of the board.
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By dumping them long ways you get a “planking” effect!
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Repeat steps 7 & 8 until you have gone through all the buckets. By this time your board should be completely covered.
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IMPORTANT: Use your squeegee and ONLY pull long ways DO NOT pull across the board. You will ruin the planking effect.
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Clean the rails and finish off as you would any other resin job.
Austin that reminds me of an old style of glassing that was prevalant in the seventies.We called them “zippered laps”.We would glass the bottom usually opaque cut laps.When doing the deck it would be two layers of 6 0r 8oz. glass but we didn’t flip the laps under,we just let the glass hang until it jelled and would trim the cloth close to the bottom of the rail with a razor blade.By doing this you had a super clean bottom with no bumps or pin air.I raised this point a couple of years ago and there was some question about the strength issue.We never had any problems but then again the boards were thicker and heavier.On of the points made was that by flipping the lap you formed a “tube” type of a situation which supposedly made the board less prone to snap.I still tend to thing that it is an acceptable method even today if you are doing retro work.It sure saves a lot of work and resin.A lot of Lightning Bolts were done this way. RB
Mix yellow and red batches.
Grab a cup of yellow. Pour a little red on top. Do not mix. Throw down the board. Repeat until board is covered, then squeegee from nose to tail. Courtesy of SF Surfshop and RoeShamBeau glassing. John Schultze, shaper and assistant glasser, shown kissing his handiwork.
but how do you get your rice paper laminate above the tinted glass? Do you hotcoat it on?
Blakestah: Nice job!
Soulslider, just put it with some resin over the cloth, and then do the hot coat over it… i mean it’s between the hot coat and the cloth.
Good waves!
Coque is basically right.You just mix up some lam resin and squegee the lam down.Let it dry before you hotcoat the board.Be careful sanding cause you can burn it off.Another way is to find some 2ounce glass and lay it over the lam,make the glass patch about twice as big as the lam.It kind of helps with the sanding thing.Two ounce is kinda hard to find though. RB
cleanlines, that zipper technique sounds just about right for the bottom layer of four oz. might try that next time. speaking of two oz. i got a whole roll of some cloth and im not sure what it is. it was just given to me. its thinner than 4 oz. and the side of the roll is greenish like my rolls of volan cloth. the weave is pretty straight.
if i mailed you a sample of the cloth do you think you could figure out what it is?
The Sam George Board www.austinsurfboards/samgeorgeboard.html has been real popular but took huge amounts of resin and a minimum of two people. If room 3 people could even be used.
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Prepare the board as previously described.
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For the Sam George board we had 6 or 7 seperate buckets of color. Red and Blue were the main colors so we probably had 2 quarts of each.
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For this type of board you don’t fire off all the resin at one time but you still must move quick.
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The first colors we worked with were the black and white.
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We used shoe strings soaked (dipped) in the resin to make the nice clean lines. (Tip from the king Gene Cooper) I think he might have used something besides shoe strings but they worked great.
*hint- Be careful of colored shoe strings they might bleed!
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I think we fired off the yellow and green next.
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We simply poured these across the board. If you want a large stripe just pour more. Small stripe less.
*hint- to make sure color appears on the rail you have to have one person hold up the cloth on one side and you hold the cloth up on the other then pour across.
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The last pour that we made was huge red and blue pours across the board. We used these colors to fill in all the blank areas.
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By this time your whole board should be covered with color (including rails).
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Wait a couple of seconds and pull across the board with the squeegee.
*hint- Have a couple of paper towels in one hand to wipe off the edge of the squeegee after each pull. This keeps the colors clean and clear. You have to keep switching out new clean paper towels.
- You have to have everything ready and at hand with this time of resin pour. The worse problem is running out of time and having one of the colors start kicking when you have only just started on the 4th color and have 3 to go.
Hope this helps!
with time being that big of an issue, would there be anything wrong with using suncure?