hello i would like to know how to make a longboard deck with opaque resin tinted, like the vintage bings or nolls.
I tried to make it before the hot coat but when i sand the deck the tinted resin is damaged andthe color dissapears and appears the second deck laminate.please can anyone tell me the steps and the sand paper grits that i need?I think that i use an innapropiate grit or make a bad step.thanks
Not trying to ruin your parade, but if you look in the archives about cut laps and deck inlays, resin tints etc. you’ll find 3 weeks worth of reading. Once you get through that part of the class, then we can answer specific advanced Q&A stuff. It’s not because no one wants to answer you, it just that it’s been discussed 100’s of times before, and isn’t something that can be told in a paragraph or two.
thank you! im new on this forum and i dont know too much abot the discussions that have been here.thank you anyway.
Resin tints are an art into themselves. It’s best to use a light color. LIke yellow. Dig into the archives. Check out Austin S to shorten the search. Mike
Ok first off tints are translucent, pigments are opaque.
the colour paste goes into the lam resin, and is then hot coated in clear.
If the coloured risin hits the foam it will stain it and as tints are translucent multiple layers of cloth will apear darker, ie the over lap of cloth on the rails, deck and fin patches. cut laps are done to get a nice clean line, on the deck side pin lines are used to hide any small inperfections.
the reason your last job came out patchy is because you did it in the hot coat which is thin and sanded though this.
if you only want to colour the deck, lam the bottom in clear and do a cut lap, clean up the lap line of any strings or drips. (Do NOT baste the lap line with hot coat resin) mask lap on the cloth side, cut full length inlay for deck to fit inside lap line and lam with tinted or pigmented resin, cut lap, pull tape. Add a second layer cloth over the top of this and lam with clear resin, as the second lap is only going to be clear over clear you can do a free lap (with out tape). clean up the second lap the hot coat in clear, ect.
Woody, although your explanations were very clear and detailed, I think that what 777 was looking for was a way to do those opaque strips found on many old longboards.
Not sure about the technique and there must be a thousand posts about that in the archives, but here is what I would do if I were to do it: glass, hot-coat, sand the hot-coat, THEN mask off the parts not to be tinted and brush on some heavily pigmented and catalysed laminating resin. This should be applied in a very thin film, which is the reason why it has to be really opaque. Let gel, lift the tape off, do a gloss coat over the whole board. Wet sand very carefully so as not to sand through the gloss and into the tinted parts below. (Just like you would do with pinlines). Polish.
Am I right, venerable swaylockian old timers?
thank you guys, your posts have been very clearly to me and was just what i needed.thank you for all!!!
Your right I was under the assumption that the whole deck within the lap was to be coloured.
I’ve not thought about doing a board with this method using resin, sounds impressive, would look beautiful as a dark tint.
I’ll definately give it a go. I think I’ll spent some time working on my gloss and fine sanding technique before I attempt it.
Can you feel the edge of the strips like you would a resin pinline?