RESIN TINT TIP PLEASE ...

Hi everyone.

I have glassed a transparent longboard for a gloss finish. There where some dry spots left on one rail because of the heat when I glassed the board.

Before hot coating, I trimed the rails carefully, but the bubbles are still visible.

Before glossing, I was thinking of covering the rail with an opac color to hide the imperfections of the rail. As a result I am thinking of a transparent glossed board, with opac rails.

My intuition is to tape deck and bottom after sanding the hot coat, as if it was a cutlap on both sides and cover the rails with a small amount of densily tinted resin.

What do you think ? Woulñd that be the right way to do it ? And if not, how can it be done ?

If you think of another technic, or effect, please do tell.

 

Thanks for your help guys.

Think of it as a big resin pinline on the rails.

You should tape the deck and apex of the rail, paint the tinted resin on and pull tape just at the right time so there are no strings of resin pulled. Get some Cobolt and add to the resin, that will help.

Scrape the apex resin line lightly with a razor blade and finish the bottom of the rail the same way.

Make a master batch of uncatalyzed resin so both deck and bottom rail are the same color.

~Brian

 

Thanks Brian.

What kind of brush should I use for the bigger surface ?

Before glossing, is it necessary to fine sand the rails for better grip ?

 

Use a 2" or larger brush, the less strokes the better it will turn out.

Forgot to mention to use lam resin, not hotcoat or gloss resin for the colored band. No need to sand just gloss over.

~Brian

Brian,

 

why the suggestion to use Lam resin for the color instead of hot coat or gloss?

 

thanks

 

mike

^^  its at the end  so you don’t have to sand it and risk ruining it by sandy through ^^

Mike

Gloss or HC resin could be used but have to be super careful sanding it so no burn throughs… I suggest using tinted lam resin in this instance if glossing clear over it, the gloss will stick better.

~Brian

uuummmmm!

you may want to rethink that sugestion of lam resin,

from my experiance , lam resin tends to orange peel and even dimple as it cures.

color panels are done with gloss resin

as this would be similar to doing a panel and I would use that method

when in doubt,,, allways do a test panel

 

I use gloss resin. Just sand lightly by hand with 320 and lastly red scotchbrite. I have never had any luck with lam resin for color work over a sanded hotcoated board. I am using poly resin to build my boards.

Gloss I think is easiest and will yield the best results. Thats how we do in the shop if its a resin-pin

Lam resin is NOT a good idea, it’s not meant to be coated in such a thick manner, it will sag and orange peel.  Gloss resin is best, if none than use HC.  If you’re worried about burning the rail panels then shoot a reg hotcoat over them after they’ve been pre sanded, let the HC kick, pre sand it THEN gloss the whole board like normal.

Don’t touch it too much with bare hands during these steps.

Definitely going to want to use cobalt in the mix, it’s a lot harder to get resin to be fully opaque and still go off right these days- especially colors like yellow and black (depending on the pigment manufacturer- I’ve been having good luck with TAP plastics’ white and black pigments).

 

Good luck,

SwayKOOK

thanks for the lam vs.HC/gloss coat discussion.   i makes sense now.  i am having a hard time with truly opaque red tint.  is there a secret with opaque red tint?

 

thanks,

 

mike

     Howzit Mr.Clean, Long time. Every body has some great ways to solve the problem but nobody said to use opaque instead of a tint. The tint is going to have semi splotchy areas from the difference in depth in colored resin after sanding. If whoever does the work is good with brushing resin out smooth then they probably might pull it off with no prob.How's things in Ga. Aloha,Kokua

Thank you all for your input.

From what I am reading, the final result of the job would be very dificult to get right.

Do anybody have another suggestion as how to cover up these bubbles given the uncertain final result of the previous technique ?

Take kokua's advice on this one.  If you want opaque use opaque pigment.  Red's a bitch.  Requires a cosmeticallly perfect blank. No scratches or pinholes  You could also just tape off and paint  the rail with flat latex paint.  Do any of the above on a sanded hotcoat and after you have repaired your f-ups on the rails.  Next time make sure those rails are completly saturated and squeegied down tight.  Pigments and tints affect your set time on the lam. PS Don't burn the rails thru on the wet n dry and rub out.

Because the blank is already glassed the quality of the finish makes no difference to how good your panels come out. 

 

Tints are for laminating.  Tints “tint” the resin and will never go opaque no matter how much you put in.  Red is actually a pretty easy color for resin panels (except when it comes to pre-sanding them for the gloss- red dust EVERYWHERE), you just have to use PIGMENT not tint.

 

It’s not that hard to get a good gloss panel, just tape a straight line on the rails apex, mix up your resin as hot as you are comfortable to and paint the rail.  Your biggest obstacle is going to be keeping the resin from sagging and dripping along the “shoulder” of the rail.  Just make sure it doesn’t go on too thick and you should be fine.

 

Don’t doubt your self- go for it.  It won’t make any difference on how the board surfs in the end- and that’s what matters.  Right?

…the easiest way, no hassles and cosmetically right is going with car paint then clear over it, then a bit of sanding and will look like a speed finish.

1-sand those rails pretty right; check for any kind of defect.

2-apply another hot coat on the rails with UV cat. (or on the whole board)

3-sand it with supersoft pad and 180 grit or 220, depends on your technique. Finish by hand with 240 and 320.

4-check again for any pin hole or like that; refill if you find any.

5-tape and spray the color; light coats.

6-spray clear over the whole board (you should sand all the board before doing previous things)

7- sand with 400 grit by hand all the board

reverb,

 i have heard the car paint suggestion a couple times.  what type of car paint do you suggest and do you have a good place to buy it?

thanks,

mike

…polyester type. You can buy it in a shop that sells products for re painting cars; like auto body shops who have a mixer, etc

i will see what is available here in Long Beach, which i’m sure is a lot

thanks for the advise, i will keep you posted