Resin tint top and bottom with no pins

Hey Guys

Whats the best way to do a resin tint top and bottom the same color without having a different shade along the rails because of the extra layer of tinted resin.

I know I can inlay the top layer but I dont really want a pinline either.

Be using epoxy too

Any clues?



   Why not just paint the whole blank?

Hey Guys

Havent had much luck painting eps blanks.

Want to stay away from it.




My stringer pretty much disappeared on my opaque laminations. Good and bad. It made marking the fin-placement dots tricky since I didn’t have a centerline reference. Take the time to measure and draw some sort of eraseable centerline mark along the tail area once the lamination has cured and you are ready to mark the fin placement.

Not being able to see the stringer is no problem. hopefully your shape is accurate enough that when you measure up from the tail and divide in half you hit the stringer dead center.  make sure your shape is accurate before you cover it in fibergalss and resin. As for the rail fin...well measurements are taken off of the break in the, 1 /18 from rail, then you shoot them to the nose, ie..2" off nose or 1 1/2" off nose etc.


That why when you ask someone for exact measurements for fin placement you get all sorts of answers.  So much depends on the tail width, board length, distance up from the tail etc.


You really don't need to see the stringer to set your fins, what you really need is an accurate shape to start with.

How about an opaque pigment, rather than a tint? A clean tint with Epoxy/EPS is hard enough (well documented here), but I have done some opaque pigments on EPS lately and I get a nice solid color throughout. Don’t even have to cutlap. One layer color lamination on each side. I measure the amount of pigment for each side with a syringe. Second layer bottom in clear (with logos under that if you want. Second/Third layer on top in clear as well. Greg Loehr does a yellow one in his Epoxy 101 Glassing DVD and it looks perfect (of course).

here’s a handy trick someone posted a few years back (sorry can’t remember who it was?)  If you can’t see a stringer after laminating, get a piece of wool (a sock or whatever) and scrub the board then toss some foam dust on it and lightly puff some air in that direction… the dust will blow away everywhere except the stringer due to static electricity (if you’ve done it right).  Mark a few dots or a line on the stringer and you’re good to go…

Hey Guys

Yer will probably do pigment rather than tint and glass clear layers over that.

I have Gregs DVD and was going that way anyway but wanted to see if there were any other methods.

I dont want to sound picky but I watched the DVD over again to see if there was any color variance but there wasnt a close up of that area to see.

I only had douts because you could still see the stringer through the color.




how about a foam stain. don't know how it'd go on eps but i've used it with pu/pe with good results. pigment in resin(i'm sure tint would work too, but i haven't tried it) applied with a brush or squeegee onto the foam and then glassed once it has cured.

For what its worth,

on a 6’ board, with a 19" widepoint, and a 14" tail,  fins at 11 inches, 1 1/8" off the rail.

2" wider than the nose is 1/4" out of parallel with the stringer. 

1 1/2" wider than the nose is 5/16" out of parallel with the stringer.

aimed at the nose is 7/16" out of parallel with the stringer.

Having fun with AutoCAD

As a famous board maker once said, "Symmetry is over rated."


Aloha MDS:


I am with Astevens.  Foam staining is the best. Use colors like white or yellow for the best results.  I mix a batch of the epoxy or PE resin enough for both the deck and bottom. This will keep the color consistant.  I do one side, tape like on the railand when that dries I foam stain the other side.  I like using a squeegy.  I glass with clear and place my laminates.  It looks like a deep tint job when done. I also use the left over resin to install the fin box, leash and fin plugs.

Bellow is a picture of one of my epoxy foam stains including a resin swrill deck.



well son of a gun - I would never have thought to try that!

     Howzit Huck, I have done a lot of resin stains on the foam and I think it is a great way to do them. Not only do they come out nice looking but they seal the foam so when you glass the board the resin doesn't soak into the foam. Mark Angell used to have me do them on his boards. ALoha,Kokua