resin tint

I have been working again with resin tint glass jobs this last year instead of paint and am wondering about the current thought about when to add mekp to tinted resin when doing the popular mexican blanket type glass job.  lots of colors and very short time to do them all. using uv cure lam resin seems like the only way to go but, will this resin cure when tinted to a dark color like black or blue? will the cured resin poured over the whole thing help the cure process? I started shaping in 1971 and have made maybe 800 boards.  only used tints for pinlines up to now. (just loved air spray) thanks for any ideas. jimmy 

i was thinking of adding .5% to each color just before putting that color to the board. (i do this when using three or less colors) just some time the creative mind delays the process and the next thing you know you have resin kicking before your ready.my shop is in the central valley of CA and during the summer the coolist i can keep it is around 82 degrees. what do you think is the smallest amount i could add to uv resin and not have an uncured batch. 

delete this comment from industry and move it to general discussion  and you will see a flood of responses

thanks

plenty of info in the archives

but just add a little MEKP to all the colors that way what hits the floor it will kick and so will the dark colors

No problem… I add a smaller amount of MEKP to the light colors it im using UV. A bit more for the darker colors. I dont do any Tints without some sort of MEKP.

82 degs,,

I wouldnt use much,,, maybe 1/4th the normal amount

but Im guessing as I do on some of my boards, im in OC socal and I get temps from 55 to 90 plus

so Im guessing a lot,, just put some amount in the colors

but

the uv will kick the darker tints but you dont want to cook it in the sun for that amount of time

so add a little MEKP so that overnite it will finish curing the darks

hope Im helpfull

if not,, disregard

[quote="$1"] ...my shop is in the central valley of CA ... [/quote]

Anywhere near Bakersfield?

Then you could sell him a shirt or two!!

thanks Ken, during the summer i have two skylights that i have sliding shields installed over so i can keep the uv cure resin in the shade when curing as to not bake and shrink the whole thing into garbage.  i have watched the vids of guys working with up to 10 colors at a time and could not see how that could be done without a helper or two. i am and have always been a one man shop so i have to plan things out very well. jim

i am in clovis about two hours north. jim

thanks for the info, after glassing boards for more than 40 years i am still greatfull for up to date knowledge. if you stop learning you stop living. thanks again to you all. jim 

Added at tab bit of resin tint to sun cure lam resin and go the worst result know to man. I noticed this as I was laminating the board BEFORE THE CURE PROCESS as I was laying resin down I knew right there this was not penetraiting equally. any tips? tricks? 

Thanks

2 of the laminators that I work with catalyze at a much lower rate, add a small amount of cobalt to ensure it will react, then when finished with the entire lamination, float a clear that is heavily catalysed and cobalted over the lam and pull it off, sealing and kicking everything

Second what jim said. I don’t mess with the colbalt, but do use a hot batch of clear right before i go to flip the laps under. I have found this to be the best way to ensure a full cure without having to rush when laying down the colors.

I think I am describing the problem wrong. It cured just fine its just that the color looks like a 2 year old did it there is streaks and uneven color tones it looks like it was spray painted really quickly and naot all the foam took color?? How do you get the color to come out even without streaks? I noticed this and kept re applying and still count get great coverage so I didcided to just forget it and let it cure looks horrible

Streaking can be a cause of uneven squeegeeing (assuming you stirred the resin enough to fully distribute the color). Dark colors such as blues & greens are harder than yellows or oranges to spread evenly, it’s something that takes time to master. As far as varying color tones the lighter you try to tint the board (the less amount of tint added) the more you will notice variations in color due to uneven spreading. Hope that helps

…man, you are attempting to do a 9 or 10 Dan technique…tints are the most difficult technique of lamination also the most underrated. Impossible to obtain clean if you have channels, etc

Lots doing tints, but with no so closer inspection you ll see the splotches, the cuts, the bubbles in the laps, the sand t in the tail laps and near side fins.

And all that hassle for nothing cause most surfers or buyers do not appreciate the difference from a tinted job and a painted one.; also some sayy to you man, why is a bit darker there in the nose?..

The best tints that I saw come from G Stubber and M Miller; also, the laminator from Bing does very good ones…

Most colors are very difficult to realize clean.

Of course if you are not picky, you can do and think that it s right…but do not.