Resin Tints

I ned help with resin tints. I purchased some pigments from Fiberglass Florida (Yellow, Blue, Red, White and Black). I built my daughter a board and used the yellow to color the base side of the board (looks great). However, when I glassed my next board with the red (following the same steps I used with the yellow), the color looks very transparent. I was looking to obtain a full deep red coloring where you cannot see through to the blank. Any suggestions?? I know for this board I’m pretty well screwed. I have pictures to post if they will help, but I need to also know hoew to post those as well. Any help would be great. Thanks

hey travis… assuming you brought the correct shade of red pigment: 1) for a more intense or strong color, you have to add more pigment. you can always test drip on scrap cloth to check intensity. 2) to make it opaque, you have to add white (which means you need even more red in the mix) if you can’t see your mixing stick when most of it has slid off, you’re there or real close. i’m no expert, but i wanted to break the ice on your question and maybe one of the experienced ‘color’ guys will chime in.>>> I ned help with resin tints. I purchased some pigments from Fiberglass > Florida (Yellow, Blue, Red, White and Black). I built my daughter a board > and used the yellow to color the base side of the board (looks great). > However, when I glassed my next board with the red (following the same > steps I used with the yellow), the color looks very transparent. I was > looking to obtain a full deep red coloring where you cannot see through to > the blank.>>> Any suggestions?? I know for this board I’m pretty well screwed. I have > pictures to post if they will help, but I need to also know hoew to post > those as well.>>> Any help would be great.>>> Thanks

I ned help with resin tints. I purchased some pigments from Fiberglass > Florida (Yellow, Blue, Red, White and Black). I built my daughter a board > and used the yellow to color the base side of the board (looks great). > However, when I glassed my next board with the red (following the same > steps I used with the yellow), the color looks very transparent. I was > looking to obtain a full deep red coloring where you cannot see through to > the blank.>>> Any suggestions?? I know for this board I’m pretty well screwed. I have > pictures to post if they will help, but I need to also know hoew to post > those as well.>>> Any help would be great.>>> Thanks I know where you are coming from.Yellow is a really forgiving color,it is still transparent but it is not that obvius.Red is a another ball of wax…it takes a ton of pigment to get a deep red.We used to get about four boards out of a pint of pigment.The pigments that you get now days don’t seem to be as intense as they used to be…“ram” brand was really good but I guess they are out of business.Here is a good trick…add black to the red and it will darken it up without changing the color value too much…always test though.If you add white it will look more like a pastel color.In my opinion red is a bad color,it gets too hot in the sun.Another trick is to spray a red acrylic base coat on the foam before glassing with pigment.

hey travis… assuming you brought the correct shade of red pigment:>>> 1) for a more intense or strong color, you have to add more pigment. you > can always test drip on scrap cloth to check intensity.>>> 2) to make it opaque, you have to add white (which means you need even > more red in the mix) if you can’t see your mixing stick when most of it > has slid off, you’re there or real close.>>> i’m no expert, but i wanted to break the ice on your question and maybe > one of the experienced ‘color’ guys will chime in. Thanks for the info. I forgot about adding white for the fact of it making the red pink. But what does white have to do with making the red opaque. The board that I spoke of look like a transparent coral orange-red. I feel that it is becoming a chick board. Any ideas for graphics. I have a digital picture of the board thus far. It is a great shape, but I don’t want to be laughed out of the water because of the color. My wife suggested making shrimp on a skewer with the POSCA pens. Is there any way to post photos to these messages?

I know where you are coming from.Yellow is a really forgiving color,it is > still transparent but it is not that obvius.Red is a another ball of > wax…it takes a ton of pigment to get a deep red.We used to get about four > boards out of a pint of pigment.The pigments that you get now days don’t > seem to be as intense as they used to be…“ram” brand was > really good but I guess they are out of business.Here is a good > trick…add black to the red and it will darken it up without changing the > color value too much…always test though.If you add white it will look > more like a pastel color.In my opinion red is a bad color,it gets too hot > in the sun.Another trick is to spray a red acrylic base coat on the foam > before glassing with pigment. I tried adding black (just a touch) and it change the red to a dark maroon (almost a blood red) which is not what I was looking for. However, in doing a test piece it was not transparent, but then again it was not a full batch of resin, just a paper dixie cup. I double strained all my mixes then added the bulk laminating resin which did not seem to change the value of the red (at least in the bucket. But once I started using it I was screwed. The resin kicked just a few minutes after glassing the base (perfect timing if the color had bee right).

? for ya’s…what’s the best way to clean up lap lines? is it poss. to “baste” with clear lam. resin to smooth it? what grit is good for an angle grinder? i migh have just answered my own ?..

? for ya’s…what’s the best way to clean up lap lines? is it poss. > to “baste” with clear lam. resin to smooth it? what grit is good > for an angle grinder? i migh have just answered my own > ?.. When I first began building boards I had problems with lose strands and getting a clean lap for the top layers. I had been told to baste the edge of the lap with a 1" brush. I did this for a few boards, but found that the top rails were not very strong. I did some research, made some calls and spend some money. The best way to learn new tricks of the trade is to visit and build a rapore with a local shaper. One day while at one of the factories I go to I saw someone using an air tool (angle grinder). I asked them what the deal was. I t took all of a few seconds for them to buzz/clean the lap. So I had to go find one. They run about $40 - $60 and then you have to buy an attachment for the sanding disk. The best sanding disk to get is made by 3M. I have found that the attachement should be for 2" “Rol-lock”, but you want to use 3" 50 grid disks. This allows you to put slight presure on the disk (flex) so you do not tear into your board. Try it and let me know how it works. I cannot tell you how good it works. Oh, by the way, be carefull when you first use it. The manufacturer lubes the grinder very well and you may have son residual lude fly out on you board. Just keep an eye out for a yellowish oil looking liquid.

thanks travis…do you know what pressure they get set for? and do the discs get clogged up or smear the lam. resin?

When I first began building boards I had problems with lose strands and > getting a clean lap for the top layers. I had been told to baste the edge > of the lap with a 1" brush. I did this for a few boards, but found > that the top rails were not very strong. I did some research, made some > calls and spend some money. The best way to learn new tricks of the trade > is to visit and build a rapore with a local shaper. One day while at one > of the factories I go to I saw someone using an air tool (angle grinder). > I asked them what the deal was. I t took all of a few seconds for them to > buzz/clean the lap. So I had to go find one. They run about $40 - $60 and > then you have to buy an attachment for the sanding disk. The best sanding > disk to get is made by 3M. I have found that the attachement should be for > 2" “Rol-lock”, but you want to use 3" 50 grid disks. > This allows you to put slight presure on the disk (flex) so you do not > tear into your board. Try it and let me know how it works. I cannot tell > you how good it works. Oh, by the way, be carefull when you first use it. > The manufacturer lubes the grinder very well and you may have son residual > lude fly out on you board. Just keep an eye out for a yellowish oil > looking liquid. Saw the angle grinder on JC’s vid. Do you think that an electric drill with a small disc will do a similar job? Thanks, Magoo

Saw the angle grinder on JC’s vid. Do you think that an electric drill > with a small disc will do a similar job? Thanks, Magoo …naw,too slow, too out-of-round.The H.F. sander with a 4" med.pad works great,if you don’t have a airgrinder.Herb

Magoo: I’m air pneumatically challenged in my home shop. I know what I want but just can’t spring for a nice big shiny 6 HP./25 gal unit yet. A small angled grinder is sooooo useful for lap finishing and just as useful in ding repair. What I just did seems like a decent alternative. Bought a variable speed electric Dremel tool some time ago at a pawn shop for $20.00. Works well for dings, fin boxes etc. with a drum sander attachment. Last week I got the rt. angle attachment for the Dremel at $19.00. I took a cutoff wheel kit for the same and spray glued different grit paper on several of the 2" wheels and started playing around with them on boards. They work great and seem like a decent alternative as a lap grinding tool for lam jobs. Tom S.>>> Saw the angle grinder on JC’s vid. Do you think that an electric drill > with a small disc will do a similar job? Thanks, Magoo

when using the angle grinder…do the pads get clogged up? or does the resin just buzz right off?

when using the angle grinder…do the pads get clogged up? or does the > resin just buzz right off? I use 60 grit roll lock discs and they will clog up but I can normaly get several boards out of a disc that costs less than a buck.These grinders run at a super fast rpm. and will sand even when clogged.I also have a little speed control valve that lets you slow it down if needed.Sometimes you can take the discs off and soak them in acetone or lacquer thinner to clean them up.One time I ran out of discs and just glued a homemade one on with contact cement.Beware of the red discs as they might stain the board…mine are white. I have seen these grinders for around thirty bucks from Harbour Freight or Grizzly Tools.

Teddy: someone here posted a good tip on extending the life of these pads. Maybe Kokua. Take some sanding resin next time you are into a batch and brush a light coat on the old clogged discs. Once it dries flex them like and ice cube tray and the old resin will pop off the surface. Sounds like it might work to me. Tom S.>>> when using the angle grinder…do the pads get clogged up? or does the > resin just buzz right off?