Restalling Help.

Hi guys,

I just bought a old single fin in shoking condition.

ive cleaned it and sanded it back.

I know how to fix the dings.

im going to give the board a coat of resin all over aswell.

now ive just got some questions about resin.

  1. Can you buy resin that already has hardener in it?

  2. Could some one tell me about colored resin? is it just filler in a different color.

3.How long does resin with the right hardener take to set?

  1. if any Aussie users are out there do you know where i can buy this stuff in sydney?

you can buy resin with UV catalyst mixed in already. Just keep it out of sunlight while you’re doing your repairs, then when you are ready, expose it and it will harden very quickly.

You can’t buy normal resin w/ MEKP already in it, because it would be cured before you could apply it.

Colored resin is made by adding pigments or tints.

hope that helps, good luck.

Thanks Keith,

that answered my question perfectly.

Ive just finished with the thinners and sanded it back. im looking forward to see the end result as this is my first restallation.

If you go to Manly and then just west to harbord/Brookevale there is a blank factory there that sold me resin, hardener, color, etc. the guy was totally cool. Don’t be confused with the board factory a few doors down, they won’t be so nice to someone snooping around… You can get the exact address from a phone book (try the nearest servo). A couple of tips for refinishing: keep it CLEAN; meaning once the overall sanding is done plan on wiping off the residue and putting resin down right away. Be sure your hands are freshly washed and wipe the board down with your hands and repeatedly wiping your hands on your shirt or a cloth. Carefull that no finger oils get to the board, if you wait too long your hands will naturally get oily and you will have a shocker. Use a wood “chip” brush. One of those throw-aways. cheap at BBC. Use good tape (3M brand with red and yellow on the inside of the roll) ask the guy at the shop; bad tape will melt a mucky layer of glue onto your board. You can get colors from the shop as well. Go the opaques (v. tints) to get a solid cover/hide value. Mix about 1oz color to one pint of resin. Use about 8cc of hardener and haul ass. (sorry about the non-metric measures) It’s winter there now but if it is warm you will only have a little while to brush it out. Dump the entire contents of the mixture onto the board down the stringer. QUICKLY split the pour with your brush and in row-by-row fashion work the resin out to the rails (both rails). Run strokes laterally to even the layer (brushing riail-to-rail) (start at the nose) Let it flow out for a minute then LIGHTLY do lengthwise overlapping strokes starting at the stringer outwards (for both rails).

Oh yeah, your work area must be free of debris aloft and any wind. shaded is a bonus. Time of day is important as well. Lastly, be sure to get the right resin. If this is your first time then use surfacing (hotcoat) resin. As you get better you can start to use Mixtures of GLOSS resin and surfacing resin. Eventually using almost 100 percent gloss. Hope this helps.

Thanks Plus One Shaper!

Is that called Dion Chemicals?

also i was going to do it in UV resin.


It was a brick building on the corner, I think it was Dion. Wayne and Bret Warner’s is just down the way a bit.

UV will be much better if you are doing CLEAR. Color additives may or may not inhibit the curing process. I’ve seen it go bad so be careful!!!

ok guys im getting this wired.

Plus one shaper if i paint the board using water based paint, let it dry and then U.V resin it. will it work?

the reason im using U.V resin is you can buy it with pre mixed hardener 'cause im not confident about mixing the 99% resin to the 1% hardener in.

With the right quality water-based acrylic paint, yes it is possible. Warning: the paint layer must be THIN and quite dry. Worst case scenario; I’ve seen paint go on too thick and this acted as a “release” layer between the old resin on the board and the new, clear, UV layer on top. For example, I’ve seen the clear top layer chip off when my friend surfed the board for about a week. Heel dents were discoloring with water intrusion. Basically it got ugly. On the other hand, I’ve had other boards with properly applied paints and everything is still looking good. Proper paints: in my area (SoCal) the good paint for this is called NovaColor. In Sydney, my guess that the guys at Dion (if they are still there) will know what airbrush colors are safe… Quality acrylic latex is what you are after, in the States it is called “Studio Colors” and is of very high quality, has a lot of pigment, and costs mucho bucks. I know you can get it in the Coolie area, so I bet it can be had in Sydney. I have an artist friend in Mona Vale who uses the right stuff so I know it is around. Just ask the shop for airbrush paints; that should be the go… Hope this helps.

P.S. Be sure to “throttle” you clear hotcoat if there is midday sun: I seem to remember the ozone layer was a bit thin in those parts…

Hey Josh,

Clean is the word! Once you have that baby sanded wipe it down with rubbing alchohol and paper towels to get it perfectly clean. (Acetone is acceptable also)You can save this step until right before you are ready to put that hot coat on. Use your chip brush once it is completely dry(alchohol will evaporate pretty quick) and brush any lint off. Run a strip of tape around the rails about midpoint top to bottom dividing the board in half. This will give you a nice edge and minimize your sanding. Use plus ones application technique, it is right on, to apply the resin. As soon as you take it out into the sun, pull the tape so the edge wont be so sharp. After that has cured you have to sand that edge to get the wax off and rough it up some …use 100 grit. When you flip the board over run your tape about a 1/4" below the resin edge so the new pour will overlap. Repeat/pull tape. Check archives about using UV resin for hot coats.

As for painting…I would sand the new hot coat to 220 and go at it with acrylics/pens/spraycans whatever. Then put a few coats of clear acryllic over that. (Krylon is OK also)Wetsand to 600 and lightly buff for a shine or 220 and scotchbrite for sanded finish. Paint under a hot coat will definitely not let the new resin bond with the old…VERY BAD IDEA!

Sorry to be so long winded …time to get some sleep!


Hi Josh,

You said you wanted to use Suncure resin. The Australian distributor is Palmer’s Surf on the Goldie. If you give them a call (07 5535 8588) I’m sure there would be a seller in Sydney. I know there is one on the Central Coast.

Thanks for that!

I’ll give em a call.

to any who wants to know the restalling is going well.

ive just finished the ding repairs and now i just have to give it a light coat of resin and paint it.

i bought the paint yesterday its a really cool shade off bright green/yellow.

Thanks to everyone for the help. josh.