Have an original Harbour Banana that is structurally sound but cosmetically the pits. The stringer is about 80 % clean with the 10 % at the nose and tail being faded under the glass. No yellow tint is decernable any more. Cosmetically the bottom is a loss. The initial thought was to opaque yellow the entire bottom and probably the top since the foam is so brown and nasty. I’ll tape off the stringer and tail block to salvage them. Here’s the question…has anyone ever stripped away the glass about 3-4inches on either side of the stringer to thumb plane the wood and really brighten that up. Thought being is that it is so cosmetically gone it would be nice to salvage the stringer and the tail block so those at least look good. I can reglass over the cut out area and bring the deck back up to level and then conceal the sugery with the opaque hot coat. Whew! I got tired even thinking about it. Value in as is condition is probably $200.00 As a resto…at leas the board would be a decent wall hanger.
i think total redos are a waste of time. i like to keep the boards character intact. sounds like you have a good rider there.
So aside from it’s appearance and value, how does it ride? Just curious, what the fin is on that one.>>> Have an original Harbour Banana that is structurally sound but > cosmetically the pits. The stringer is about 80 % clean with the 10 % at > the nose and tail being faded under the glass. No yellow tint is > decernable any more. Cosmetically the bottom is a loss. The initial > thought was to opaque yellow the entire bottom and probably the top since > the foam is so brown and nasty. I’ll tape off the stringer and tail block > to salvage them. Here’s the question…has anyone ever stripped > away the glass about 3-4inches on either side of the stringer to thumb > plane the wood and really brighten that up. Thought being is that it is so > cosmetically gone it would be nice to salvage the stringer and the tail > block so those at least look good. I can reglass over the cut out area and > bring the deck back up to level and then conceal the sugery with the > opaque hot coat. Whew! I got tired even thinking about it. Value in as is > condition is probably $200.00 As a resto…at leas the board would be a > decent wall hanger.
So aside from it’s appearance and value, how does it ride? Just curious, what the fin is on that one.>>> Have an original Harbour Banana that is structurally sound but > cosmetically the pits. The stringer is about 80 % clean with the 10 % at > the nose and tail being faded under the glass. No yellow tint is > decernable any more. Cosmetically the bottom is a loss. The initial > thought was to opaque yellow the entire bottom and probably the top since > the foam is so brown and nasty. I’ll tape off the stringer and tail block > to salvage them. Here’s the question…has anyone ever stripped > away the glass about 3-4inches on either side of the stringer to thumb > plane the wood and really brighten that up. Thought being is that it is so > cosmetically gone it would be nice to salvage the stringer and the tail > block so those at least look good. I can reglass over the cut out area and > bring the deck back up to level and then conceal the sugery with the > opaque hot coat. Whew! I got tired even thinking about it. Value in as is > condition is probably $200.00 As a resto…at leas the board would be a > decent wall hanger.
So aside from it’s appearance and value, how does it ride? Just curious, > what the fin is on that one. I haven’t riden it!..it is so rough with stuff that inexperienced people tried to do to it not the least of which is a pile of bondo that was poured onto he deck like my labradors morning business. It is salvagable though. It has a Malibu style fin that is relativly thin for a board of that era. Since its so ugly I thought it would be a fitting tribute to honor such a former masterpiece.
I haven’t riden it!..it is so rough with stuff that inexperienced > people tried to do to it not the least of which is a pile of bondo that > was poured onto he deck like my labradors morning business. It is > salvagable though. It has a Malibu style fin that is relativly thin for a > board of that era. Since its so ugly I thought it would be a fitting > tribute to honor such a former masterpiece. Hey Jim it sounds like a nice old tank… If it was me i would spend the time grinding the shit out of the board and Gloss it with lots of pigment. tape off your lables cover the rest in a nice yellow?? when you said your thinking about removing the old cloth%&$%&&(( don’t do that… Just fix the dings remove bondo?? then buy a couple of 60 grit grinding discs with as many RPMs you run grind the whole board till you reach the cloth. Grind from nose to tail down to the cloth removing any extra old resin and dead weight… It’s going to take a lot of grinding and sanding up to 120. don’t leave gringing marks they will show up in your yellow gloss cover up. It’s a great board to restore… it may take two coats to cover but polished it will look cool… Don’t worry about the stringer and tail blocks… Cover all but the lables… It’s all about the “Shape” anyway… It’s a Banana!!! http://surfnwsc.com
Hey Jim it sounds like a nice old tank… If it was me i would spend the > time grinding the shit out of the board and Gloss it with lots of pigment. > tape off your lables cover the rest in a nice yellow?? when you said your > thinking about removing the old cloth%&$%&&(( don’t do that… > Just fix the dings remove bondo?? then buy a couple of 60 grit grinding > discs with as many RPMs you run grind the whole board till you reach the > cloth. Grind from nose to tail down to the cloth removing any extra old > resin and dead weight… It’s going to take a lot of grinding and sanding > up to 120. don’t leave gringing marks they will show up in your yellow > gloss cover up. It’s a great board to restore… it may take two coats to > cover but polished it will look cool…>>> Don’t worry about the stringer and tail blocks… Cover all but the > lables…>>> It’s all about the “Shape” anyway… It’s a Banana!!! Thats pretty much what I had in mind…I have a tendency to get my grinder to much on an angle and leave wheel marks. But I’ve never had an experience when the wheel marks showed thru the new hot coat especially after the resin has been loaded down w/ opaque pigment. For me its usually on the gloss coat but I’ve been getting better results lately by using 320 to 400 to 600 dry and then buffing out w/ 3M polishing compound. On the tail block I think I can actually go thru the glass to the the block w/o damaging it and reglass over it so it really looks good. You’ll never see the lap of the new glass over the tail section. Thanks for the input! JC
the best riding board I have is also the ugliest.fix the dings and ride it! The restoration will make it useless to ride due to the weight.There is my opinion.Have fun no matter what you do.