Restore 55 yr old Hansen single fin w/ original "Ventral" fin box





So the thing about repairing / restoring an old board like this is that there is no clear cut plan of attack A-Z, its really just a myriad of little decisions, constantly revised as you progress, judgement calls, gut feelings, and whim of the moment. For that reason, I think it would always be a labor of love, you couldn’t charge enough money to pay for all the time spent analyzing, doing and re-doing, patching, blending, sanding, over and over as you progress, until you get to a point you say OK, that’s it, I’m calling it done.

At least for me its always that way. I patched a bunch of dings and dents, added a layer of tinted resin to the rails, painted some pin lines, coated everything with a layer of resin, then decided there were more (smaller) little dents I wanted to fill in. More resin work with little ovals of fiberglass all over (I tried to show that in a couple pics), more sanding, sanded through the rail tint and the pin lines in several places, put another very thin coat of resin over everything.

My goal was to repair the bottom to the point of no dents, or at least almost no dents, to fill the big dents on the deck, but allow for some dimpling and denting representative of a 55 year old board that was loved and surfed in its day. I added a deck patch, meaning I glassed over about 70% of the deck, and then filled in most the dents on the nose.

I decided no opaque resin covering over repairs, I always cringe at “restored” old boards all covered in bright new opaque resin, with a clear deck showing old yellowed foam, it always just looks wrong to me. But its a judgement call, no right or wrong way to do it.

I tried to be respectful of the age and history of the board, while making a few changes to make it surfable and maybe a bit more aesthetic. I added yellow tint to the rails. The pinline on the deck was always there, but I added a pinline on the bottom.

I built up the rounded rail in the tail to allow a bit more of an edge in the fin area. It doesn’t look great, and its a change from the original, but it was a compromise that I felt wasn’t out of character from something that might have been done to the original back in the day, and hopefully will make it a bit more rideable.

I made two new fins, one using the old plastic fin as a core (so I could utilize the unique base to fit the box). In doing so, I destroyed the old original fin, which was cheap plastic, a bit deformed, and an ugly and impractial looking shape. But for some, they would have kept the original in original condition. So I’m not a hardcore purist. I removed the ugly leash plug that was there when I got it, and added a leash loop of wood. Clearly not original.

Now I think I’m going to re-tint the rails after sanding through the tint in several spots, then re-do the pinlines in resin, then a layer of clear over everything and polish up. Hopefully it goes as smooth as that sounds, but there’s always a chance I will decide to do something a little different as it nears completion. (All my work has been with epoxy resin, as I do not work with polyester resin anymore.)

Good thing these are not billable hours, I’d get fired.

It’s looking really good Huck! I can fully relate to the process having done a couple of old boards myself. The goal posts move all the time. I’ve been through the sand through tint and pinline process as well!!! A friend recommended me to a colleague of theirs to restore a board they had rescued. I didn’t feel I could take the job on as it could clock up too many hours, I wouldn’t be able to charge them. These things are definitely a labour of love to fix, …almost as much fun as riding them!

Smart move. It is fun repairing them, but at some point, usually about 80% into the project, I always start to question whether I would have jumped in if I knew how much trouble it was going to be.

My first clue was when I tried to find a fin to fit the box. I had no idea these Ventral fins were so fricken rare. I had the fin that came with the board, but it was a p.o.s. I thought I could just purchase some decent fins for the Ventral fin system - wrong!

I guess the 2 fins I made myself should at least have some value, since the original plastic fins go as high as $150 IF you can even find one.

The other thing is all the little dimples on the bottom. You see a hundred dimples on an old board, and think well, there’s only a few that are really bad. So you fix those, and they come out perfect. So the remaining mid-size dents are now the “big ones”, since the original big ones are fixed, so you have to fix those. And so on. And then by the end, there’s only a few tiny dimples left, and you’re thinking, wow, I’m so close to just having the bottom perfect…

Anyway, I’m really trying hard to go with my plan to just do the rails, pinlines, and finish up with a final coat and polish. It won’t be perfect, but nobody really cares anyway, except my twisted mind.

OK, so that’s a wrap. At least for now. Finished up according to plan, its ready to ride. Maybe polish it up a bit more once the epoxy resin cures a little more. Or not.





Got a base coat of hard wax, will wax it up with some softer surf wax when I get to the beach. So here it is, 55 years later, ready to go! I have no idea what to expect, its definitely a rare shape. Super fat, even in the nose and tail, and that old time rocker that was very flat through the middle, a little rocker in the tail, and a lot in the nose. LOTS of belly in the nose. And single fin.

I don’t know how popular this Hansen SuperLight shape was back in '60-‘70, but I know you don’t see a bunch of these on Craigslist, or at the beach. I’m guessing at that time these were shaped from longboard blanks. Its only in recent times, with the advent of SUP popularity that I’ve seen super thick blanks like this in the 8’ range - is that just me, or anyone else feel the same? I dunno, kind of a weird rocker for a longboard, too much rocker up front in the nose.

The two fins snap into place pretty solid, with a rubber mallet, but probably a towel placed over the fin would allow you to smack it into place with your hand. A good wipeout could probably knock it loose, but it has to be hit from behind, not the front.

The fin box allows for multiple positions, in increments of like 3/4", but the furthest forward seems the most logical to my mind, so if it were up to me I would have placed the box a little further forward.





So took it out in some small surf today, and got a few fun waves. There is always a bit of a learning curve for me on new boards, especially something like this because of the volume & thickness, but I enjoyed myself & felt like the board performed well. Which is especially cool cuz most the midlengths I’ve seen from the “shortboard revolution” era look like real dogs to me.

Fortunately I have been riding bigger boards for awhile now, and I have a few boards I made for myself with extra volume throughout, so this wasn’t so far outside of my previous experience. But these thick boards ride different, and I’ve been riding more traditionally foiled boards lately. As I get older (nearly 70 now) the extra foam has certain benefits.

They paddle easier, and are very stable. But they’re a little harder to get into the wave with, IMO, because all that foam wants to ride up the face rather than drop down in. I’ve seen SUPs fighting the same battle to drop in. And that extra stability is welcome at times, but makes the board a little less responsive on the face, i.e. you can’t just sink a rail & crank a turn. Again, I see this also on SUPs.

The single fin is very retro and cool, but its a board to trim in the pocket, not crank for speed. I’m not a performance surfer, very much a trim down the line kinda guy anyway, so it should suit me just fine once I get a bit more comfortable with it.

Hope to ride it some more soon.



Awesome! Good work Huck, the board looks fantastic!!! Thanks for sharing the ride report as well. I hadn’t thought about the volume issue getting into waves, I think you’re right though the extra float can sometimes hang you up in the lip. Especially depending on where the foam is I guess?

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Yes, I agree. Thick foam seems to ride high in the water, thinner foam spread over a wider area, not so much. So a very thick short or midlength board will ride high in the water and tend to float up the wave face when paddling to get into a wave, whereas a thin longboard, with the same volume, will paddle into the wave easily. Visualize a guy on a big SUP paddling hard to get down into a wave vs. a pro surfer on a little potato chip of a board paddling into Uluwatu or Pipeline with one stroke. Just an observation that seems valid to me, curious to hear what others think.

Having only had one day on the board I have no business thinking about modifications, but regardless, I find myself thinking about adding some sidebite or widowmaker rail fins. Which is a total violation of the historical authenticity of the design, but if I glassed them on instead of adding a fin plug, they could always be removed and the board returned to original condition.

And anyway, if this is just a board for me to ride and enjoy, then it doesn’t matter. So I’m considering my intuition that the board might be improved with some small rail fins. I might add, I’m normally not a fan of adding sidebites to a single fin surfboard, but in this case I feel the thick tail takes a little efficiency from the single fin. Just a thought, at this point.