Lots of good teenage memories with the board but over the years the deck is a trampoline and the titanic would keep water out better.
So I peeled all the fiber glass off which of course ruins some things and now I’m a first time shaper/builder with a bunch of questions. A bit of background I’ve done countless hours building model gliders, using epoxy/fiber/carbon bagged wings.I’m not scared of composite construction.
I believe I know what needs to be done for glassing. Was going to get some fiber tape for the rails and get that on. Then I figure I would do a layer of 6oz fiber and a layer of 4 oz fiber top and bottom. Possible put another 4oz on the deck just were my front foot to back foot goes.
The foam is a bit discolored so I was hoping to use white pigment in the resin. Then sand, then paint, then hot coat. Does this sound right? Will the water based airbrush paint they sell at michaels work?
I have not done much research on the fins, It was a tri fin but the two small fins where glassed in. I’m thinking there is an easier method now a days. Sorry for sounding like a complete noob on this I’m thinking I need some solid advice on the fin systems…even if I need to replace the main fin box or is it reusable.
Looks like so pretty big foam chunks missing in the tail. Are you looking to completely reshape. Or just re glass ? You could make a mini SIMM I you wantto re shape it. You also going to have to route out that box probably. And mAybe spackle those gaps in thefoam. Take a surfoam get the foam smooth and even. If your using pigment your most likely going to cut lap. Take you time and have fun with it. I’m restoring a 1972 retro fish right now also.
I would say its a complete reshape but trying to stay close to the original basic shape…does that make sense? Its a 9’6 so plenty to work with…If things get out of control turn in into an egg.
I was thinking of gettin the shape mostly there…then filling in the gaps with resin and cabosil before glassing. I do glass the whole thing before adding the two small fins back correct? Thinking FCS system.
I don’t have to take the box out if I can keep the same basic shape though right? or is it standard practice to fill everything in glass then do all the fin systems. Which complicates my life because alignment fears.
Actually, the way it’s done is this: 6 oz bottom with cloth overlapping the rails (look for “cutlap” or “freelap” in the search engine). Then one 4 oz (cut at the rail apex) and one 6 oz (overlapping the rail), both laminated at the same time. Add patches here and there if you want something really tough (knees, feet…) I strongly advise watching someone do it first, either in real, or on a video. No offense intended, but glassing a longboard is not so easy, at least the first time.
you will want to use micro ballons, be vary carefull though when you sand the filler down not to hit the foam and if your doing a white pigment theres no need to paint the board but if you still want to you need to paint it after you hot coat the board, if the center fin box isnt cracked then just put some tape over it before you glass the board and yes you glass and hot coat the board before you do glass on fins and fcs
Thanks for the info and getting up to speed on the industry terms.
So to be clear…
Bottom gets: 6oz cutlap + 4oz cut on rail apeax (laminated at the same time)
Top: 6oz overlapping rail…cutlap style + patches
I am pretty nervous about glassing, I’ve only worked with epoxy and had lots of time. I understand I’m going to be under the gun with the poly only getting 10 maybe 15 minutes of work time.
It all depends upon what strength/weight you want to achieve. Personally, I always use a minimum of one layer of 6 oz on the bottom and two layers of 6 oz on the deck (for longboards). Some people will glass lighter (and weaker), some heavier (and stronger). Usually, one layer on the bottom is enough, since it’s not supposed to withstand lots of pressure.
that should be a fun project. I just finished a project on an old 9’4; a bit easier task than what you’re facing probably. if you’re on Oahu, i think fiberglass Hawaii has all the materials you need…their website can also give you ideas on what materials to use for your reshaping project…from resins to pigment to cloth selection.
I didn’t use color pigmented resin, but simply Krylon for Plastic to ease the process. Turned out good… been surfing on the board a few times…No peeling of regular use.
Forget using any kind of hard resin/filler on that deck or bottom, it’s too big of an area and the fills would be too deep. When you try and sand it down, you’ll hit all the surrounding foam and then you’ll be repairing that also. And, it will weigh a ton when you’re done. What you want is a foam filler like 2# pour foam. Mix it in small 4 oz batches and spread it over a section while it’s still liquid. It will expand 5-6x when it foams, so you’ll have mounds of foam in that section. Plane these down using the rest of the shape as reference. Once everything is filled and planed to shape, screen/sand as you would a new shape. One issue with the pour foam is that the foaming action will leave holes from the bubbles after you shape it, sometimes large depending on the temperature. Fill the big holes with more pour foam, the small ones fill with a epoxy/micro balloon slurry as you would an eps blank. Put in the side boxes or do it after the hotcoat. Get the pour foam here: www.aeromarineproducts.com/boat-foam.htm the 1/2 gallon kit is plenty ($36). Once you have the blank prepped, it will be a mix of colors from the pour foam, yellowed old foam, white epoxy filler, etc. This will ghost through a opaque lam of even 2 layers of 6 oz. unless you over-pigment which I wouldn’t recommend unless you’re familiar with catalyst ratios. So acrylic spray with an airbrush or detail gun, doesn’t have to be a perfect paint job, just not too thick and enough to even out the color like a primer coat. Check your pigments to be certain they’re really opaque by glassing over a
piece of scrap foam marked with a black posca. Glass it double 6 oz. each side just as you would a new blank, forget about the strips you mentioned. Do the bottom both layers at once using an opaque lam and cutlap, and do a single layer contrasting opaque inset on the deck. You can add any deck patches under the inset if you want. Then do a single layer of clear over that lapping onto the bottom. Hotcoat, sand, pinline, gloss, polish and you’re done. Look in the archives for more detailed info on the glassing. This a lot of work, more than making a new board from scratch since it’s essentially a restoration. I never do a restoration unless: (1) The board has emotional value, or (2) You’re certain that you can restore it (without any surprises) and some fool is going to pay serious money for it.
