afoaf - Did you try boardlams.com? They might be able to print it for you. Someone recommended them in this thread. I called them and they were super nice.
As to my recent comment above, I widened the platen gaps on my printer and that significantly reduced, but did not completely eliminate the smudging.
It also just seems like the graphics printed on the rice paper are not coming out with crisp edges like on regular paper. Like it bleeds just a little bit.
I think a pro outfit is definitely my best bet.
http://www.swaylocks.com/comment/333609#comment-333609
I have never used it. But DeadShaper, Kokua and SurfDing all say **Archival Ink **is the way to go.
What happens with tape is that it allows the paper to shift and vibrate over the substrate. With spray, it doesnt move at all, therefore you get crisp-er prints.
Also paper over paper= your substrate absorbs ink meant for your rice paper.
Plastics reflect the ink back into the rice paper for a higher density print.
What happens with tape is that it allows the paper to shift and vibrate over the substrate. With spray, it doesnt move at all, therefore you get crisp-er prints.
Also paper over paper= your substrate absorbs ink meant for your rice paper.
Plastics reflect the ink back into the rice paper for a higher density print.
I’ll try to grab some transparencies tomorrow. Is the screen printing plate adhesive something I can pick up at a regular art store?
no you would have to get it from a sign or printing supply… The art supply should have a low tack or repositionable spray adhesive though, that works ok… you may have to use a hair dryer to get it to release if its to sticky.
I found some at a good art supply place. it might have been a little too sticky but it did release. And it ran through the printer great. thanks!
good to hear good luck with your project.
Pallet, stencil, re-position-able, remove-able…those are your key words.
I just did this with some Loctite spray from the local DIY store: attached vellum to typing paper to go through a laser printer to make screen-exposing artwork.
Lately I’ve been seeing some logos on production boards that are super duper sharp…as if they are printed right on the board. The graphic appears close to the surface rather than under the glass. No matter how hard I look I see no signs of rice paper. I wonder what the trick is??? Are they a transfer of some sort??? Die cut???
Sharpeye and JS boards are two boards I have in my house right now that have logos like this.
https://www.swaylocks.com/forums/glassing-thread-lots-difficulty?page=3
Silk screen right on the cloth
Those are rice paper inkjet prints. You can print art that would be impossible to color separate/halftone with screen printing. The white base makes them opaque so you can put them over a colored background so the background doesn’t ghost through. The only issue I have with their lams is the paper they use has sizing in it so it doesn’t completely go transparent over dark colors so you have to carefully trim the paper close to the art. Most lams are printed on that paper because it’s really thin compared to the unsized medium silky paper which is thicker. Glasser like the thinner paper because it lays up flatter. https://www.boardlams.com/products/ricepaper-small?variant=5307843521
Skelter, don’t give up on the DIY rice paper lams.
Yeah, there will be few jams but it is worth having the creative control and instant results.
Enclosing a pic of 16 GSM ‘rice’ (mulberry) paper. Logo was designed on an online graffiti font generator and printed on a home laser printer. Toothpick is 6.5cm/2.5" long.
Similar results to be had on inkjet, maybe not quite as dark on the blacks. I use a typing paper carrier (to prevent crumple and absorb bleed) with carefully placed tape or a couple stripes of spray adhesive on the typing paper, dried to be repositionable/removable before applying the rice paper.
As always, test a print under your fiberglass with your resin BEFORE trying it on a board project. I use epoxy which doesn’t include a hot solvent like the styrene in poly resin. That said, I have used hot solvents to make the laser toner bleed a little on other projects.
All of my lams for the past 7 or 8 years have been done on laser printers. The only fading I’ve ever experienced were with lams I made using an HP Inkjet printer.
I just pulled out a well used board I made in April of 2013 that I laser printed some colorful logos for and took the pictures below. Not even the slightest bit of fading. Worth noting that for this particular set of color lams I did not use rice paper. For this board I used a paper called Hammermill 28# Color paper in order to get the sharpest image possible. It is a high end, acid free paper made for office copiers. I then cut out the logos closely using an X-acto knife. If you look really closely the logos are actually slightly whiter than the board.
The black logo in the middle of the board is laser printed on Rice Paper.
Here is a shot of how the board looked on the day I glassed it.
And a couple shots I took last week of the little guy (now 12) above.
Here’s what I use on rice paper. UHU is a similar product.
I put as little as I can on the leading and side edges of my A4 paper which normally ends up just under 1/4 inch. Let it flash for 3-5 mins, make sure no saggers are going to clog your printer and away you go. I’ve gotten 3 runs out of one sheet, maybe more if extra care is taken… Oh and I use a pretty basic (but new) Epson inkjet. Yeah you get the odd crumple every now and then, but mainly because it isn’t stuck…Steve
Helter, I use the tracing paper for shooting silk screens but it is the same process as rice paper. Picture was intended to show:
-Typing paper on the bottom.
-Adhesive (spray glue, glue stick, double-stick tape) on the leading edge only. Seems to work better than external tape.
-Rice paper on top
-Print on top of rice paper (shown flipped over to show location of toner and adhesive band)
Keep after it, you’ll get it soon. How did you do the other ones on the other thread? Looks like those came out fine.