Once I’m in the wave and pop up I always find myself in the middle of the board. I have done hundreds upon hundreds of pop ups on an old beater board in my yard to work on the issue, but still end up on the middle of the board when I surf. From 5’5" to 10’ it’s always the same. I usually just shift my stance to compensate and that works.
On to my question… Has anyone designed a board around this type of foot placement. I am looking to build a good wave board that is good for drawn out turns and carving. I am 5’10" 225. My go to shortie is 6’4"x 21" x 2-1/2" and my fish is 5’9 x 20-1/4" x 2-5/8".
So far here’s what I have comeup with. 3-4" entry rocker going flat after 20-24" single concave moved up under where my front foot naturally goes, to a double through the fins which will also be moved up 4" (quad), to an extended v through the tail to keep it loose. Thinking of going 6’4" x 21" x 2-3/4" x 15" n x 15-1/2" t for some extra float and paddling speed.
How will a moved up fin placement work? Any thoughts suggestions or ideas are greatly appreciated. Pics are even better
How would hulls ride in quick dumpy beach break. I just looked at another thread where it was not always the best board for the job. What about a single fin or a 2+1 with a hull entry going to flat with hard rails??
If you’re not feeling the single fin or the hull then maybe the next best thing might be an MR-style twin with the wide point forward and hi-aspect twin fins set as far forward as you dare. Put a hip or wing behind the fins to narrow the tail block.
I cannot imagine that a low nose rocker would be helpful for either giving you enough time to pop up more casually or make it easier to surf from the front. As much as I like them for my own boards I think of lower rockers as reducing the margin of error. I have to take that extra stroke or two to get in and I like them more for trim and carve than loose.
sounds like typical ‘front foot’ surfer, one myself, so all my boards, shorter and longer, run fin clusters (thrusters) moved more forward, along with relaxed tail rockers and more forward moderate V/twin concaves - found flattening the V last couple of inches before exit reduces tracking.
Suggest you make something similar to what you’re currently riding, just change things up moderately, ride it, see if you’re moving forward in the right direction…good luck!
I ride a hull alot in beachbreaks. I hear lots of people cry about how they don’t work in beach breaks well, but I feel the opposite.on a hull, I make sections that I never thought would be possible, and cover much more ground than on other boards I’ve ridden…all done in long, drawn out fluid-like movements. It seems to me like the normal length of a wave at my beach break can be doubled or even tripled on a hull. I enjoy my 7’6 in small to well overhead beach breaks, but it seems like shorter, thicker foiled, wider tailed, narrower nosed versions of the design cut back easier, making them work a bit better in peaky surf…so I bring those out in short waves where it is extra peaky. sidebites help too. just my take, good luck…adam.
Gdaddy- it’s not that I am not into hulls or singles, but I just don’t have too much experience on one. I am actually going to take a look at a custom rocker eps blank here a little later… 7’4" with 4-3/4 N rocker and 3-5/8" T rocker… Trying to open my mind up some.
Lcc, I’m with ya… I have thought about slight changes and seeing where it goes, but I think it’s time for something drastic to up the fun factor
I started experimenting with really wide boards that had the wide point moved back. I found that I would move to the most stable part of a board to try and center my weight. Once I widened the board and moved the WP back I found that this was the area that I gravitated toward. It took some time but it makes a huge difference now. So do something really crazy. You could use a ton more volume also. At 225# you could easily turn a 6'4"x23.5x2.75 quad with the WP 3-4" behind center and dont be scared to have tail width at 16.5-18" try it you might like it. Unless you are worried what your friends will say.
here is the 7’6" I was referring to(purple logo)… 17" nose 22" width@ 6" up and 15" tail. other(orange) is a 6’8" 17 7/8 nose 21.5width @ 4" up and 15 7/8 tail. So far I have enjoyed riding outlines with about a 2" difference between nose and tail widths in beachbreaks…but that is just my preference. hope this helps you
PS. I tend to use wide base flex fins(9") on both, and sometimes even a 9" greenough 4a on the 7’6" when the waves get jucier…fins usually placed around 11.5" - 13" up. gonna add rail boxes to the 7’6 after current projects.
Bud, I didn’t read the long response, but I got the Go Surf part. I agree with ya on that. Just looking to see what all else’s out there. I have shaped quite a few different boards and I love them all for different reasons, but looking to experiment with something different and looking for a new feel.
T, good idea with the wide point back, I might give that a go on my next one… And I like the lower volume. It’s not that I can’t turn. A bigger board, but I have always liked the way the lower volume feel under my feet… What I currently ride I have to make them generate speed which I like for the control. Most of the guys I surf with don’t ride performance shapes, so a little ribbing is not an issue.
Thanks for the pics adam, really appreciate them!
Well, I went and checked out the eps hull blank my buddy had, but ended up picking up a 8’2" eps blank with a double stringer. I am going to build a 7’8" single fin of some sort. Not sure on exact shape or contours yet. I will put up some pics in the current projects once I get her started. Thanks the the input from everyone!
single fin to ride from the centre ? sorry but ya need a board that’ll turn easier from being more forward not a single which needs the foot further back…I didnt read all the above posts so I may have missed something, but singles dont turn from way up the centre…be trying a thruster or quaddy with lots of tail cuve in the planshape, fins pushed forward a little and maybe a more pivotty template fins in front , maybe tweaking the wide point to create more pivot from up further…and bottom contours that will get the board to respond easily from up further…wouldnt suggest doing all of these and if so, keep them very subtle and small changes, change them all too much, and the problem may be that you have too much pivot…
Pridemore, here’s what I am thinking so far. Hope this clarifies and let me know what you think
7’8" x 23" x 3-1/8" x 18"N x 16"T
Rails: First 18" or so inches rolled up rail/ slight hull entry,then to 50/50 till last two feet where 50/50 will blend to down rail.
Bottom contour: Mid section of board will be single channel with v built in to the channel running 3" inside the rail at wide point with a nice channel edge. The v shape is shaped into the channel would continue through the pin tail
Fin or fins: since I have plenty of fin boxes, I guess I could install a quad set with a single fin box. Not too sure on box placement. I guess maybe I should shape it and ask for some placement advise after…
A well designed single fin can be turned from the tail, the middle and even with toes hanging out the tip of the nose… I love my Junod log! Then again it’s a log… Nice boards astevens!
