I’m working on a new board (a 11’6" Paddle Board) and in the process took some pictures of a way to recreate frame parts pretty easily…
My version of a cost conscious CNC router, without the CNC…
It’s picture rich, and instead of copying and pasting, it’s all here:
Hollow Surfboard Router Patterns…
As always, I’d be interested in suggestions and improvements…
Paul Jensen
bitchin.
…ambrose…
Everybody, please note the above post from Ambrose…
The shortest ever from the Poet Laureate of Surfing…
Succinct…
Poetry…
Bitchin…
Ha
yeah, “bitchin”
… just dont tell santa we wont need that cnc machine fur christmas.
Thanks again P.
edit - kinda funny typo, was yhanks instead of thanks.
Slick - I like it. A pantograph-type arrangement came to mind, but I can’t immediately think of a clean and reliable way to do it nicely.
Some questions:
How do you like the Festool?
Do you find that the ply strips bend true, say compared to a clear-grained pine batten?
Tabs: will the ends be rounded for the actual pieces or would you mortise the rail pieces square? I’d guess the former ( with another jig ) being as it looks like all the tabs are the same height/width. Or just a touch of a rasp or wood file.
!/4" dimeter, 1/8" radius
And lastly
Elapsed time so far, about a half hour…Ready to router…
Uh huh…maybe for you. In my shop, I think it might take longer. A lot longer.
doc…
Paul. my Grandfather would be proud of you, Martin Phillips, head jig maker, Grumman-Wright F-6 Hellcat
I make rocker templates where I make the first one and then make the duplicate with a router. I use 1# EPS as my sacrificial back rather than plywood. Cheaper and cuts easier. Perhaps it would work for this as well. Also you didn’t show transferring the template from paper to the plywood. I just spray glue the paper to the wood and then I have a nice line to cut. White paper and a black line is easy for my old eyes to see. Perhaps this is your method too.
How do you like the Festool?
The reason Festool costs as much as they do is because they are so much better than whatever is considered second place…That router is smooth, cool running, variable speed, smooth plunging, long cord, and comes with a few cool accessories…
Check out their hand planer if you want to see a cool tool…The front handle depth control screams “shape foam”…Anyone use one…
<span style="font-weight:bold">HL 850 E Electric Planer</span>
Smooth going.
The HL 850 E planer is equipped with the unique spiral blade. Because the blade is drawn across the work piece at an angle and cuts more gently into the work piece, it produces less noise and an absolutely smooth surface. Since the planer head has only one blade, blade changing is faster it takes less than a minute. No blade adjustment is necessary. With many planers, the chip ejection unit is on the wrong side and in the way 50% of the time.The chip ejection unit and the chip extraction port switch between left and right to suit the job at hand.
Drive shaft speed 10,000 rpm
Cutting depth 0-9/64" (0-3.5 mm)
Rebating depth unlimited
Head width 3 15/64" (82 mm)
Noise level at idle 79 dB(A)
Weight 8.6 lbs. (3.9 kg)
Do you find that the ply strips bend true, say compared to a clear-grained pine batten?
The ply seems consistent enough…
Tabs: will the ends be rounded for the actual pieces or would you mortise the rail pieces square? I’d guess the former ( with another jig ) being as it looks like all the tabs are the same height/width. Or just a touch of a rasp or wood file.
The tabs fit somewhat loose, +/- 1/8"…they aren’t structural, just for close alignment…One jig only…Simple is good…
I use 1# EPS as my sacrificial back rather than plywood. Cheaper and cuts easier. Perhaps it would work for this as well.
Good idea…I’ll use it…!!!..
Also you didn’t show transferring the template from paper to the plywood.I just spray glue the paper to the wood and then I have a nice line to cut. White paper and a black line is easy for my old eyes to see. Perhaps this is your method too.
I personally draw everything on something hard…1/8" ply or hardboard…
V Cool…
Aloha Paul:
I would also be very curious how the Festool planer works for shaping a board. I have looked at them on numerous occasions and wondered. The only negative I noticed when I handled it was that it has a fairly wide overhang adjacent to the motor that is never shown in the photos of the machine. It looks like it was designed partially as a support when using the planer as a jointer mounted in its optional workbench stand. I wondered if this would present problems moving the planer around on a blank.
I also have the same router as you were shown using, that tool is really a dream to use so smooth! Great using it hooked up to a Festool vacuum.
I love your whole idea and will be borrowing some of your ideas when I finally get around to making my first REAL hollow board!
-Robin
Back in the shop today and I cut out some frame parts with the router patterns…
I am very pleased with the consistency oif the cut and resulting parts…
Could be a good way to if you were chambering a board…Three, maybe four patterns would work…You could really remove a lot of material, the right way if you planned it smart…
