I need to get a router for fin box installations, can anyone give me some suggestions as to what features to look for. I was looking at Home Depot and there are quite a few different ones ranging in price from $60.00 on up. Thanks in advance for any input. Jon
Makita Plunge Router 3612. It is a very durable router with plenty of throw and has a brake. It is not uncommon to gouge a board or a jib with the free wheeling router bit after you finish a cut.
Morning Jon! I think your next patient is waiting on you amigo. Take a look at the one of the rotozip tools, preferably one with a variable speed control. They take standard 1/4 shank router bits, easy switch bases and enough power to work for low volume shaping. There are already some clones out there as well. The small diameter base and ease of making specialty bases/guides is attractive for the different fin systems. Full size router with plunge ability is nice for big wooden stringers and they have more horsepower. Just my $0.02 Tom>>> I need to get a router for fin box installations, can anyone give me some > suggestions as to what features to look for. I was looking at Home Depot > and there are quite a few different ones ranging in price from $60.00 on > up. Thanks in advance for any input.>>> Jon
on the router subject… i just bought one myself, what kind of bit do i need to cut out a hole for a fin box? i’m thinking 1/2 - 1" straight bit? something like that?
rather than a full sized router, you might consider a ‘laminate trimmer’ router type tool, which i would guess is similar to the rotozip that Tom has suggested. i have a porter cable that i can easily guide with just one hand. you can make your own clear lexan base, and do your routing free-hand because you can see exactly where the bit is. a sharp double fluted 1/4" bit, with a depth of cut of at least 1" is fine. foam is no problem, but when you’re going through stringer, the wider the bit, the more torque required from your router.>>> Morning Jon!>>> I think your next patient is waiting on you amigo. Take a look at the one > of the rotozip tools, preferably one with a variable speed control. They > take standard 1/4 shank router bits, easy switch bases and enough power to > work for low volume shaping. There are already some clones out there as > well. The small diameter base and ease of making specialty bases/guides is > attractive for the different fin systems. Full size router with plunge > ability is nice for big wooden stringers and they have more horsepower. > Just my $0.02>>> Tom
Thanks for the suggestions, I’m going to look when I leave the office tonight. Tom, you were right, patients were waiting. I think I’m developing an addiction! Jon
I have 3 router type tools,1)a PorterCable router with both quarter inch and half inch shanks.2)Rotozip,cordless.3)An old Sears diehard router(60s or 70s) that I inherited down the line. They all work fine,the exception is The Sears which has a trigger start built into the grip, right at the index finger.This allows me to bump the trigger to run it at a slower rate(like bumping a sander)rather than turning it on with a toggle switch,and letting it fly.Starting and stopping the Sears router is just a movement of your index finger.It also has a trigger lock button to lock it into a continuous speed.Herb.
I’ve got the Sears with the index trigger as my only router. You’re right the, trigger does come in handy. I hated the lousy spade-wing-type nut that locks the depth adjustment, crude at best. The thing was hard to crank down it was so close to the body of the router. I added a 1" piece of hollow ferrule as a spacer and posistioned the wing nut further away from the body so I could crank down on it harder. Much better lock down now on the depth lock. TS>>> I have 3 router type tools,1)a PorterCable router with both quarter inch > and half inch shanks.2)Rotozip,cordless.3)An old Sears diehard router(60s > or 70s) that I inherited down the line.>>> They all work fine,the exception is The Sears which has a trigger start > built into the grip, right at the index finger.This allows me to bump the > trigger to run it at a slower rate(like bumping a sander)rather than > turning it on with a toggle switch,and letting it fly.Starting and > stopping the Sears router is just a movement of your index finger.It also > has a trigger lock button to lock it into a continuous speed.Herb.