So I’ve done some reading in “the archives” and seems to be mixed opinions about epoxy over PU foam…
I’ve got a Bennett blank that I’ve airbrushed a bit and am getting ready to glass. Airbrush is basically some stripes on front and back, blue and black…
Any concerns with doing a RR lam on it?
Thanks!
yeah i wanna do the same RR ovwer a bennet
shuld be a bit lighter i rekon
Just make sure you use RR with a UV inhibitor, PU foam will turn brown if UV
can get to it. If your colorwork covers the whole board, no worries.
Inquire about the new “blue” RR epoxy, which has a UV absorber in it.
Try RR directly, or contact Foam-ez
A few years ago, I did a bunch of Clark blanks with resin research epoxy. a bit lighter, better ding resistance, pressure dented easier but no stress cracks BUT after a year, all the boards started ‘shrinking’. Some really ugly stuff happened. So I dont glass epoxy over PU anymore.
Also, it will most likely be cloudy over your colorwork.
I’m no pro by far, but I have yet to do a color that hasn’t been at least a little bit cloudy in spots. I does seem a bit easier to pressure dent, but after dropping a board on the rail this weekend and thinking it was screwed, there wasn’t even a dent. So, as already stated, it seems more ding resistant, but easier to pressure dent. I haven’t been using it long enough to comment on long term durability with poly, but short term looks good. I think it’s easier to use than others make it out to be, but it will take you a board or two to get it wired. I have been using it on Ice9 Cane formula Poly blanks with no problems so far. I work in my basement with a fan in the window and no respirator most of the time. The only time I use the respirator is with larger hot coat/fill coat batches because the Additive F contains Xylene, but the amount is so little it’s really negligible even with the extra used in the HC/FC. My recommendation is to do the fill coat most people on here suggest and sand with no less than 150 grit. 80 grit is asking for burn through. Don’t let the epoxy heat up when sanding or it softens. Keep the sander moving. If you decide to go for it, hit me up with a PM and I’ll tell you all the mistakes I made on my first board, to help you avoid them.
All PU is not equal. Some of it is very prone to shrinking if the board becomes hotter than about 150 degrees Fahrenheit. My rule for these boards is to keep them cool and out of the sun as much as possible, but a closed board bag in direct sun can be just as bad as direct sun. A closed up car with sun beating down on one part of the board can cause it to shrink in that spot. Beware. I’ve not had this problem with boards that are done with EPS/Epoxy. So for me it’s Pu/Polyester ~ EPS/Epoxy.
No Worries, Rich