I don’t ordinarily post these. We regularly do these test panels in house so we can know certain things about our product we need to know. UV panels are just one in house test we do, there are many others. This panel is one from our achieves of thousands of panels on UV. This panel illustrates the importance of mix ratio. The left section was mixed correctly while the right was purposely mixed 120 to 50 by volume. This panel was pulled at 5 months (Approx. 1500 hours) … test was done in AZ. Test resin/hardener is 2000/2100F
Greg, do you want to post a step by step on measuring (scales) and mixing epoxy? Or do you want me to? Separate thread. Lots has been said in various threads, but not in one location.
I don’t think yellow bothers people quite as much as pink. If you can figure it out and clue us in, it would be nice to know what not to do to avoid the pink.
We glass hundreds of boards using KK from Resin Research (Clear Water Glassing). I have never seen pink ever? How do you do it? I would love to make a pink board for my daugther. Let me know the mixing ratio to obtain the pink I heard about it. Pretty cool to have control like that.
i would appreciate that thread G.Tate... i've been mixing some batches by volume and some by weight but when doing weight, i've always done 2:1 and never had problems. i'd like to know how to do it right...
I've been using measuring cups and spoons, following the volume specification, the cups are the individual 1/4, 1/3, 1/2....... cup type that come in a set, not the Pyrex clear type where you need to fill to a line. The cups and spoons work great, easy and easy to clean. Cost is $1. per set at the .99 store or thrift store.
GL, as you know, Eric B is always doing test panels to test diabolical fiber combinations and futuristic lam techniques. After other analysis is finished, they frequently end up exposed to UV for a while. I've been conducting my own, somewhat less scientific, testing in my backyard. I wondered what it would take to make a Coil turn ''yellow'', so I left one in my backyard bottom up for the last 10 months. The board was almost 3 years old to start with. After about 6 months in the yard it showed the first signs. Now the exposed inner part of the Future boxes has turned a nice golden color, the flange (under fiber/RR) still normal. The bottom of the board is about the same color as a normal PU/PE now.
I like the yellow thing. I had a guy once want a new board...but it couldn't look like a new board. He didn't want his wife to know it was a new board.
So...I airbrushed a few brown spots, and mixed in a light brown / clear swirl. All I got to do now is really miss the ratios with my RR. Thanks for the tip!
Yea, at 2000 hours (essentially 200 days) all the resin systems are pretty much on their way to yellowland. Poly too is even worse at that point. If you care about this keep them out of the sun or they’ll get a nice golden tan. Actually Coil’s got some extra time since you guys start off so much whiter than everyone else.
Pre aged … I like it. Can’t get much worse so you never have to worry about cosmetics. A friend I grew up with was pretty poor, lived in the trailer park with his grandmother and had the worst POS board ever. Kept it under the trailer. So one night he hears this noise,. Wakes up to see a couple guys who had gotten his board out from under the trailer. They were making off with the goods but stopped breifly under a street lamp to get a look. Upon gazing at this wonderous abomination they immmediatly dropped it and ran.
So no one will steal your board … perfect anti theft device. I’m not sure that’s not ground breaking!!
Yes, UV does eventually weaken the resin. Some resins are pretty extreme in their sensitivity to UV. Surfboard epoxies are the very best epoxies against UV degradation.
I've been using the regular clear 2000 for some time now and never had an issue. I measure my mixture using little disposable paper bathroom cups. I use two cups full to one cup full and I've never had a problem.
I always buy my glassing supplies from Fiberglass Supply and they have always sent me the clear stuff. This past order they sent me the Blue UV 2000 instead. I didn't ask for it but that's what they sent. No problem, I figured they had an out of stock issue on my usual supply and sent me this instead. If I'm not mistaken its more expensive and they didn't charge me the difference so no harm no foul, right?
Anyway, my question is this: is the blue tint supposed to remain in the cured mixture? Is that what makes it UV resistant? Does the blue tint fade over time? I don't know why but I was expecting it to cure clear. I glassed a white eps blank with it and you can see a definite tint of blue in it. The resin that cured in the bottom of the pot is as blue as the unmixed resin in the bottle. I guess that all makes sense but I wasn't expecting it. I don't consider this a problem I'm just wondering its normal. On the foam board I actually think it looks kind of cool. I'm a bit concerned about using it on a wood board however because I'm not sure how it will look. Wetting out wood with clear epoxy makes the wood grain pop visually. I'm not sure if the blue tint will be visible over wood or if it will detract from that "pop".
This is a chart that another sways member posted a while back. I took the chart and customized it for my use. I posted it above my mix table.
The bottom numbers in yellow are ounces that show a 100/45 ratio. The top numbers are in grams for using FH 3 minute epoxy that are custom mix ratios.
I bought a digital scale on ebay for $25 after having too many screw ups doing fin box installations. Then ended up using it for all my mixing. The scale is nice because you mix directly into the pot. No need for seperate cups.
