Ryan Gerard's Hull *PIC*

Just wanted to bring this hull up for general discussion; the comments on the resource page don’t seem to lend themselves to our normal wealth of free-for-all comments. Very interesting board. What are the dimensions? What blank did you use? Template source? Thanks, Rob Olliges Ryan’s Description: This was made with a 6’5 Greenough template, my first attempt at a hull and concave deck. I’ve heard from many people that sub 7’ hulls don’t go as well as the 7-8’ hulls, but I wanted to give it a go anyways. Meant for kneeling or standing. Should be fun in good lined-up waves; not the great lakes!

Thank you Rob! Its obvious that Ryans inspiration and skill far exceed the limitations of his current locale`s waves. Those surfers/craftsmen who remember him from his time spent in the Santa Cruz, CA area can be proud.

i like the template ryan.is it off an old wilderness of the cundith era?

Hey, thanks guys. I scored the template from a guy in santa cruz. All it said was “Greenough 6’5”, I didn’t know if it came from a rather large kneeboard or what, but it looked rad. I can’t remember all the dimensions off the top of my head but I think it’s about 19 1/2" wide and 2" thick. I can measure if you want more info. The concave is very shallow, maybe 5/8" at most. The hull is deeper, maybe 1 3/8" or so? Neutral rails turned up some in nose. Moderate nose rocker and maybe too much tail rocker for this board. I am not very familiar with hulls, only what I have learned here, seen in pictures, and George’s films. I had a 6’2C I was thinking of doing a modern type quad kneeboard out of but I had been itching to use this template and try some things I have not before. Probably not the ideal blank for the board, especially the rocker, but I went for it anyway. Have to wait till next spring/summer when I graduate from the Lakes out to the points of the west coast to get it (and my neumatic) going. I can’t say enough about the things I learned from the Arrow crew, and especially here in swaylocks over the past few years. This site is a savior for guys like me away from the bigger scene. So thanks Mike and everyone who contributes. There is something special about a site like this where you can share and learn about surfcraft ranging from hulls, logs, mats, kneeboards, etc, etc. Stoked- ryan gerard

Ryan thats a damn nice job,Im a long time hullaholic.One thing I have not had great luck with, is concave decks they tend to stay on rail to long, but thats hard to explain . Give that baby a go and learn maybe next, way less rocker and a thicker S deck.Goodluck KP.

Thanks Kirk. Definitely reduce the rocker next time, need to go with more foam. I’ve recently shaped my first s-deck longboard so I have a better idea of what it’s about. Maybe make the next hull longer with the s-deck. Have you ever tried and had any luck with concave decks in other applications? Thanks again- ryan

Ryan, could you give the specific demensions of the board, nose, tail width and thickness. if you have a picture of the deck contour, that would be intresting as well. the board looks really amazing.

Ryan: It’ll be interesting to see if Kirk’s experience was like mine. I made one standup board with a 1-2 inch concave deck back in the late 70’s. While it seemed very stable, it was hard to change tracks. Like Kirk was intimating, it would get up on a rail ok but once it was there it was hell getting it to release. Probably had to do with a lower center of gravity (or my poor rocker/rail design). Greenough’s concave deck was all about removing foam to allow the board to flex. Unless you are after that effect, IMO, the concave deck just makes the board difficult to paddle and results in “stiff” performance.

Lee/Kirk… I’ve shaped concave decks and also boards with a sharp rail crown (like old G&S Waterskate) and noticed the same thing. My hunch is that water flowing over the deck creates a downward pressure (opposite of the upward pressure concave noses exert on noseriding models.) IMO, that’s why the buried rail wants to stay buried and track. I’d love to take another look at an old design - “The Shoe” that as I remember was very thick, concave decked, sharp rail crown stepping down to a thinner tapered rail. Almost an upside down version of an edge board. In effect, giving the advantage of a concave deck but directing the waterflow back along the rail step instead of over the deck.

Yes, dimensions please. Rob Olliges http://www.surfingoods.com/BushmanSurfboards/bushman.html

Thanks for the feedback on your experiences with concave decks Lee and John. I decided to try it after hearing Will Jobson (of twinzer fame) talk about them some, and also some good words from a contributor here (hey aloha tom). Mine is shallow so it will be interesting to see how it goes. Turning the rails ended up feeling awkward but they came out ok. It was simply something I had not experienced before so it was interesting. From what I understand George was using his scooped decks for increased flexibility aspects and a livelier (and lighter) feel. I was thinking that the slight concave may turn over more naturally than a flat or domed deck. I have yet to let it loose so I don’t know. Tom and Rob, I would be happy to give you the spec’s, just give me a few days. Thanks- ryan