Although not on surfboard design, I must post what San Diego surfer and shaper Skip Frye stated in the inaugural issue of “Surf Shot Magazine”: HOW COULD WE MAKE SURFING BETTER? Just go out and share your love. Hoot the kook! Be enthusiastic with everyone in the water even if the guy drops in on you. I saw sessions when waves stopped when the vibe was so heavy. God probably thought: “You guys want to be greedy? So no more waves for you.” Share the love! The greedier you are the less you will get. It is a spiritual principal. Connect with God yourself first and then you will be able to give to others. It is only going to get more crowded. This is the only solution. IS IT TRUE THAT YOU CAME UP WITH THE SAYING: ‘THE BEST SURFER OUT THERE IS THE ONE HAVING THE MOST FUN’? Yes, it is true. I see people out that only have fun when it is realy good, but I also see pople that work everyday and get stoked paddling out no matter what the conditions are. This guy, in my point of view, is a better surfer for being stoked year-round rather than those that are only happy when getting sick barrels. WHAT IS YOUR MESSAGE TO THE NEW SURFING GENERATION? Learn to share. It’s only getting more crowded so learn to share wavea and “Hoot the kook!” ________________________________________________________________________________ For you artists who create our surfboards, Skip also discusses his first board (shaped by Mike Diffenderfer at Burland Surf Boards), his 54 board quiver (I think its larger), and the fact that he is currently testing 7 new boards. Rory
Great post. I do feel that sometimes even on a surfboard design forum you have to talk a bit about other related things. Here’s some more. http://www.tube6.de This feature is better than any waveloch flowrider and rivals the Texaswavepool idea. Only it would cost a fracture of the thing and doesn’t need power. It’s a stationary wave that tubes forever perfectly and can be altered by filling or draining the structure beneath it (like water or airbags). Like Riverwaves. I guess lot’s of you have seen EndlessSummer2, there is a part where they dig a canal on the beach to let the river flow out into the sea at low tide… I am kind of enthusiastic about that idea cause I live in central Europe (no ocean) and all I do surf is riverwaves during the year. like this wave http://fluid.kajakworld.at/fluidworld3/gallerie/photo/isar6.jpg
where does one pick up a copy of surf shot mag?
I had hope that I might be a contender but I bow and offer fealty to my european comrade… back to a most Important topic i.e. sage advise to cover these most important topics are imperative in light of the fixation fostered by contemporary media on self agrandizement and other selfish attitudes. The illustrious elder Frye like only a few in our subculture’s liniage has “raised the bar” for the mass market conciousness to aspire to ! [lest they simply cannot hear ]. Unlike other bar raisings of the recent past this concise concept from the statesman from San Diego echos back to a place in time where people who surfed were trained as swimmers as .lifeguards and stewards of environ and fauna alike .The adoptation of individuals disenfranchised by their native culture have latched onto this activity From the Hawaiian culture .Romanticized by London the Jack, Ford Hume the king and countless unnameable knaves like us our fix ation has the potential to allow us to ,as Leary believed,evolve our species to a higher state of being.Key attitude pitfalls like engineers laying claim to territory graciously providedfor their use by unacnowleged elders and ancestors that in our case can be traced directly to a hawaiian beach boy… The self taught ,dilude themselves.This directive from San Diego should be elevated nutured andpracticed till perfect only then will the set wave of ultimate satisfaction come directly to our personal lineup where the execution of the 0 paddle take off will lead us from the kulana nalu [point a] all the way to pae i ke nalu [point z] . My quest as a young man was reflected in Carlos Castenada’s concern “how to live” was some how nutured by this surfing subculture growing older is inevitable for all but the expendable.Our fallen friends lead us to survivable life quests .To leave our driving force to commercial media direction is short range goal orientedi ie not the way to live. I personally owe my life to my birth parents as well as the many men who gave me good examples to aspire to, they should not be confused with “perfect” but many things they did had perfection at heart. keep this perfection to heart. tyhanks for posting the SKIP FRYE quotes they are inspirational and I may not have seen them other wise. on the 3rd day of my 55th year good waves to all you guys come surfing at my home break I own it …the world wide ocean…its yours too,… ambrose in waipouli
I just watched (for the 100th time) Skip surf beautifly in The Seedling and now I’m really intreaged as to what he’s up to. Where can you get the magazine?
“Surf Shot Magazine” is a free magazine being distributed in San Diego surf shops and coffee bars (I got mine at Surf Dog’s coffee shop in Encinitas). By the way, I should’ve posted “For those artists who create our ‘surfcraft’.” Sorry Dale. I didn’t mean to forget you. Rory Wicks