hey everyone so i finished completely sanding my board and in some small spots it appears that some of the weeve has come through from the fiberglass. its not very much at all but it is kinda noticible and when i push oh the spots with my finger they are still very hard. These little spots are mainly located close to the tail and the nose along the lap line. My question is should i just leave these little spots alone since they are still very hard or should i touch them up with some resin and sand them down. Any response is greatly appreciated thanks.
Re hot coat, re sand.
Just gloss it or do some sort of 'speed finish.' I've never seen a sanded board that didn't show some weave in at least a few spots. I've seen some boards waiting to be glossed where nearly the entire board was sanded down to the glass weave.
Hey Makox,
I’m at the same stage and have sanded through in a few spots, like you said, I’m just going to touch up the worst ones with some resin and lightly resand, I couldn’t face another hot coat!
I am going to laquer finish though which will help with sealing.
acrylic floor sealer from smart and final works great for this.
herb
Listen to this man, Possibly one of the best tips ever on swaylocks.
one of the worst tips on swaylocks. no offense to herb. its just another way to cut a corner
I don’t think that HerbSpitzer is giving out bad advice, it’s just a different school of thought. If it’s a shortboard then acrylic is the way to go, everyone in the industry does it. If it’s the gloss coat on a Cooperfish then re-do it. Either way, I’m sure you’re going to have fun on the board you made!
everyone in the industry except the chinese who finish their boards properly
Everyone in the industry… Incorrect . and even if it were, doesn’t mean it’s proper.
scratch the area up with 50/80 or 150. Then hand sand lightly around the area you wish to hotcoat with 220 or 320. The outer perimeter of the resin should be right around the 320 area but not completely over it. It will all fare in nicely .
You need to grind your laps flatter. Get rid of the ridge between the laps and foam on the deck side and the laps and glass on the bottom side so the hot coat can flow flat thus making sanding easier. Every step in shaping laminating, hotcoating and sanding is to make the next step less of a hassle. Example clean up your laps and make sure no hanging strings and resin drops are left over to grind. Grind flat to avoid your problem and sand throughs. Dont use a hard pad on the rails and nose area…
**You need to grind your laps flatter. Get rid of the ridge between the
laps and foam on the deck side and the laps and glass on the bottom side
so the hot coat can flow flat thus making sanding easier. Every step in
shaping laminating, hotcoating and sanding is to make the next step
less of a hassle. Example clean up your laps and make sure no hanging
strings and resin drops are left over to grind. Grind flat to avoid your
problem and sand throughs. Dont use a hard pad on the rails and nose
area… **
Right on!
This is what I was trying to getting at on the sanding thread - plus I’ve used spray finishes with no ill effects.
even better do cutlaps and sanding problems are completely elimintated