Looking at a repair on a circle one epoxy sandwhich construction board.
A impact near the nose has caused the outer glass (clear fibre glass, sanded finish) and the inner glass ( thick unflexible biege coloured layer with a few uni directional strands thrown in) to shatter and delam. There is a thickiss layer of primer and paint between the inner and outer glass layers. No Divvicell, structural venear or carbon etc.
The foam core is closed bead and a little dented but other wise intact and dry. (no really it is dry)
The actual repair does not bother me, but I’ve noticed that the outer glass has delamed much further than the inner and I suspect there is a bonding issue cause by the thick paint layer.
In past repairs of this type the paint has always been the last layer. I’m sure the outer glass is propably only aesthetic so the board looks more tradisional?
I’m pritty sure I can achieve a good colour match. But can’t decide if it should go back in the same order as the original. ie, inner glass - paint - outer glass, this would look better but I’m worried I’ll run in to similar bonding issues as its a thick layer of paint (primer then 5 or 6 coats) not like painting a blank.
I was thinking it may be more structual to leave the paint as the final layer, maybe be add a clear coat of futures or krylon over that, though I’ve heard that that may turn milky over epoxy when it gets wet.
Of corse I could leave the paint out entirely but I like to to a thorough job.
So basic what you you guys think paint over or under outer glass.
Eeeenteresting…
Woody, that doesn’t sound like a layup that I know…hmm, what make board?
Pics?
Anyway, Paint touch-ups usually go best outside on the new glass, then a coat of laquer to prevent easily scratching off.
Josh
imho…
prepare the repair area as usual (cut away anything “dead”, sanding out the wound edges, prepping glass sheets, divy-cell and maybe a foam plug if necessary) then brush the cavity with loadsa epoxy, not thickened mind you, place the repair materials and bag the sucker - at least the wound area. The vacuum should help your copious amounts of resin to seep into any nooks and crannies as well as keeping the layers under some contact pressure. When resin is sandable remove from bag, fair it all out and do the cosmetics.
Basically what’s here:
http://www.boardlady.com/vacuumbagging.htm
Hi Speedy,
It’s by Circle One, I’m told it’s about 3 yrs old, but not surfed much and apart from the ding its in near mint condition. relitiverly cheap slightly more than an NSP, Its heavy and stiff, I guess they were tryin to make em solid.
I’ve only opened her up a small amount (couple of inches) to see what I was dealing with on the inside. Peels like an onion, layer by layer, the bonding between the resing and paint is really not great. I’m sure I could peel all the glass off and leave a pristine blank if I wanted to. I’m workign on 4 boards at the moment but as soon as I get round to this one I’ll put a pick up once I’ve opened her up a bit more. I’ll stage the cuts for you speedy to expose the layers.
As far as the paint goes that was my thought as well, never seen one of these puppies with the paint between the inner and outer glass, as far as bonding goes not a good idea, I would imagine they were trin to get away from the pop out look.
Surfer Dave, Thanks for the input, but I’ve got the repair side of things pretty much covered and am well versed with Edna’s work, really great stuff there.
Just the cosmetics really, part of me wants to do it the same as the original board so the repair looks the same as the rest of the board the other part can see that its a bad idea bonding wise, the laquer will make the differnce here i think.
Remove all loose material/delam. Use a 20:1 scarf ratio…do the repair in epoxy and finish as needed. Dont bother trying to prime 1st.
HI Speedy
I had another look last night and took a picture for you, I won’t beable to post it till tomorrow, but on clossed inspection there is structural venear but only up to the rail, the crackes on the top and bottom run right next to the edge of it. I think it must have created a hard spot and the impact has been trasmitted to the nose as its a lot less flexible than the middle part of the board.
My initial assesment was a bit out but I nailed it in the end.
Here the pic I promised
Took your advise and put paint over the top with a few coats of lacquer, skipped the primer and it came out looking lovely, you’d hardly know the carnage this board had been through and the owner was stoked.
Thanks guys.
