If you want a really nice hard tucked under edge, it may not be easy wrapping the skins around the rails. The wood doesn’t like making that transition from flat to hard edge. You can make it close then add the edge when you glass the board, or add a little more wood to the rail to make a nice hard edge before you glass it.
You can use 1/16" balsa with 2 or 4 oz glass under and wrap that around the rails. There may be a few spots that may need to be patched, but you can make the patches and it will look fine. We’ve do the layer of glass and balsa as a single step and I think that makes it a little more flexible than a premade skin. We do one side at a time, starting with the bottom, clean up the edge a little then do the other side. It helps to have more hands around when you bag the board to make sure the skins wrap around the blank nice and clean. That will save you a lot of fixing work. 1/8" balsa will make a strong skin, but doesn’t wrap around the rails as easy. I don’t worry about the weight, but you can make a very light board this way. I prefer durability over super light, and I’m too cheap to buy corecell for the skins. I have 1/8" balsa over PU foam compsands that are very strong. They don’t get pressure dings and I’ve slammed them pretty hard, your body will get bruised but there won’t be a pressure ding. I think these will last the rest of my surfing life.
We’ve made boards like this with extra light eps cores and no stringers. The rails are very strong when you wrap the skin around. It may be a little stiff for some people, but I’m old school, so I like stiff boards, and I don’t mind boards that weight the same as older poly boards.
It’s also much faster to make the board this way versus doing the solid wood rails and not wrapping the skins around. You just shape the blank, then skin it, then make a few patches and glass the board. We’ve done patches with super glue, and that dries really fast, so you can make the fixes really fast, then glass the board. With the layer of glass under the wood, you can do the outer layer of glass with UV poly resin. It will be a lot faster to dry, easier to sand and get a nice finish.
We’ve made boards with all kinds of thin veneer sheets even the paper backed sheets. These will split and fold up along the rail line if you don’t do relief cuts. You’ll need some craft paper to make a copy of the skin then just figure out where the relief cuts need to go. After you make the copy, transfer that shape to the veneer and make the cuts. I would use 4oz glass under the veneer because it is nor like using balsa. Balsa will combine with the resin and glass and create a strong composite skin. The thin veneers don’t seem to do that, maybe because they are too thin (usually 1/42").
Silly’s methods are very precise, but if you don’t work the way he does, the corecell can end up soaking up the resin, and make the board heavy. He’s posted his technique on youtube under compsand. He’s got it all figured out.