check out the garage sales and street mkt if you guys have it? Here in west coast we have it. You can find all kinds of stuff!
A worm drive Skil saw, was the favorite of Terry Martin. First time I saw the technique, was watching Terry, when I shaped next to him at at Hobie’s. It was amazing to see. He was both smooth, and accurate.
Bill
Jay - I’ll try it on my next blank. I suppose at the tips I could surform + sand if it gets to curvy…
The router is the one tool I worry about. I’m always super dooper careful with them even routing fin boxes. I know that method works great but don’t think I’d ever use it unless I had a perfect workspace where everything had its place.
I have used a Skill 77 wormdrive since board one. You have to make sure your surface the saw rides on is flat. Otherwise it will tilt the blade off vertical. Then I saw the light and do as Wavecraft does his outlines. Easiest, smoothest way to get a TRUE line. I still rough with the Skil and then use the router and template. Wavecraft looks like he uses an end mill, pretty nice. I use a spiral router bit.
ps. Mako, sounds like your problem with handsaws is the “set” is too aggresive. With the blade on its back spine and teeth up, look down the line and see the right and left tilt of the teeth. Ones with heavy set bend out far. A fine set to your teeth may fix your problem. There are teeth setters for this but since you are only sawing foam you may be able to tap GENTLY the teeth downflatter to lessen the set. Take care in doing this, a little at a time. Soft taps and check, and so on.
Believe me, you should be worried about the Skil saw more. Being a carpenter for 30 years and seeing first hand the devastating injuries caused from a worm drive Skil saw, the router is a lot easier to handle. How ever I would not say it’s safer. As with any power tool including the planers that we all use you must take great precaution when operating them. The router with the 6" up-cut spiral foam cutter, makes a perfectly true and square perimeter cut.
Bill, did you just sell me a planer?
Like Ace, Worm Drive. I don’t cut square to the board because following the rocker can change the plan shape some, cuts it shorter on the deck than on the bottom. I keep the blade square to the ground, plumb, or vertical.
I always thought the router method looked super clean though. I might try it on a couple of balsa’s coming up, both with low rocker. How does that bit do on balsa Mitch?
No. Hope you got a good one though. PeteC is the go to guy, if you have any problems with your new toy.
Bill
After the first hand saw “hick up” OPS has used the Skil worm drive, thick blanks still need to finish off with my handsaw (also cherished).
Wavecraft and Barry S. are those me knows use router! Worry about the template moving honestly, just use to a line to leave, hard too change.
Gene, That bit shown in my photo is a foam cutter. It won’t work for any kind of wood. If you can find a carbide router bit 4" or longer (hard to find and very expensive) you will have to cut close to your template line fist, then clamp down your template and use the router. Notice the router guide in the photo. It has been ground down to just a little less than 1/8 inch, the thickness of the template. This foam cutter will vibrate at full RPM so I have to slow the routers RPM down to about 60% of full power with this variable speed auto transformer control.
Feel free to post vids or techniques as it will be better to understand the technique of tools used. Please show results if possible.thanks man.
Don’t have any Video footage. Only Photo’s. Barry Snyder Might though.
Yeah even if they make a bit that long the price would be crazy so I’ll stick to the worm drive.
Saw this today in a Hobie video.
Pics are fine… no worries.
Amana, Whiteside, CMT all have 3 and 31/2 half inch shank spiral cutters for about 70 to 80 bucks each. They work for most blanks. All you havbe to do is “scrub” off the little lip left over. Takes a minute or two. Perfect plumb, square outline with crisp edges. As easy as pie.
ps. With the 1/2" shank you don’t need a rub collar or bearing. Bit rides on the template. Plastic clear lexan base with a 3/4 hole bored for the bit. Offset handle or “D” handle router. TOTAL CONTROL.