Hey everyone. I just finished some ink pin’s, and noticed the wider pin came out better than the thin one. I am aware of taping off and the whole procedure, but I am looking for any hints to keeping a steady line, other than a steady hand, to keep it as straight as possible and keep the wobble factor down. On the thin pin I noticed it was especially tough. I have problems when, after dipping the pen for more ink, feeding it back into the line it seems to deliver too much ink and therfore ends up too wide for a inch or two until the ink flow levels out. Is there anything I can do to get better pin’s or do I simply need a steadier hand and more practice? What about the ink flow? Thanks- gill
Hey everyone. I just finished some ink pin’s, and noticed the wider pin > came out better than the thin one. I am aware of taping off and the whole > procedure, but I am looking for any hints to keeping a steady line, other > than a steady hand, to keep it as straight as possible and keep the wobble > factor down. On the thin pin I noticed it was especially tough. I have > problems when, after dipping the pen for more ink, feeding it back into > the line it seems to deliver too much ink and therfore ends up too wide > for a inch or two until the ink flow levels out. Is there anything I can > do to get better pin’s or do I simply need a steadier hand and more > practice? What about the ink flow? Thanks- gill You need to be using rapidograph or konikor(sp) auto feed pens
You need to be using rapidograph or konikor(sp) auto feed pens This fine tool will produce professional quality results with a minimum of skill, and are definitely a worthwhile addition to anyone`s bag of tricks: http://www.dickblick.com/zz289/07/products.asp?param=0&ig_id=2775 Dale
This fine tool will produce professional quality results with a minimum of > skill, and are definitely a worthwhile addition to anyone`s bag of tricks:>>> http://www.dickblick.com/zz289/07/products.asp?param=0&ig_id=2775>>> Dale I use these pens with a template,I never had any luck with using tape as the guide, the ink tended to bleed under the tape.I sand my boards to 320 grit so that the ink flows nicely.Would love to hear more on this, I started doing it in 1970 and can always learn more.
where is a good website to read about pinlining and what is involvd?
pinlines go on after the sanded hotcoat, before the gloss coat???
This fine tool will produce professional quality results with a minimum of > skill, and are definitely a worthwhile addition to anyone`s bag of tricks:>>> http://www.dickblick.com/zz289/07/products.asp?param=0&ig_id=2775>>> Dale Jim, what exactly is the type of pen you’re talking about? And Dale, thanks for the link. Is there a picture? I don’t see one and I can’t figure out how this works. I guess I’ve been doing it the old fashioned way with the caligrapghy pen! By the way Dale, have been enjoying your posts since we last spoke. We have had some fun swell here and I’ve even been able to take the mat out a few times; stoked! Still creating in my shop also (tried to add a pic of my U.P. shaping room, we’ll see if it works). Thanks for the advice and inspiration. Take care- michigan ryan
Cleanlines- Regarding the use of templates with mechanical ink drawing pens. I’m with you on taking the surface down to 320 grit and the problems with tape lines and ink creeping under the same. I’ve used crude templates at times to get me out of trouble on certain pinline designs. Are your templates reserved for small, added details like leash plugs, embellished nose and tail areas? Or are we talking large full rail outlines too? I’ve been wondering a about finding a cheap easy to use material like a thick plastic or something that is easily cut by razor, smooth or easily smoothed and can be done on the fly. I suppose some solid (not corrugated) cardboard will work in a pinch but I keep coming back to reusable, something you can use for cut lap lines which then can be reused for the pinlines to cover the same. Am I dreaming or should I be out there paying dues and pulling tape lines? TS
Jim, what exactly is the type of pen you’re talking about? And Dale, > thanks for the link. Is there a picture? I don’t see one and I can’t > figure out how this works. I guess I’ve been doing it the old fashioned > way with the caligrapghy pen! By the way Dale, have been enjoying your > posts since we last spoke. We have had some fun swell here and I’ve even > been able to take the mat out a few times; stoked! Still creating in my > shop also (tried to add a pic of my U.P. shaping room, we’ll see if it > works). Thanks for the advice and inspiration. Take care- michigan ryan Hey, Ryan! How
s the winter surf been in the Great Lakes? Drop me a line with your current email address! Heres a better link with lots of info and pictures… http://www.beugler.com/ Dale
“I use these pens with a template, I never had any luck with using tape as the guide, the ink tended to bleed under the tape.I sand my boards to 320 grit so that the ink flows nicely. Would love to hear more on this, I started doing it in 1970 and can always learn more.” Cleanlines, These mechanical stripers dont need tape. They have little arms/guides that track along contours (such as a rail line), laying down pinlines... Theyre used with great success on all kinds of long, smoothly contoured surfaces. You can even bend your own guide arms as needed. Personally speaking, I`ve been freehand pinstriping with brushes on custom Harleys, helmets and specialized cars for nearly 30 years. On surfboards, I have used the Beugler Striper with very good results, but overall, I still prefer the feel and freedom of laying down tape lines. Dale
->>> Regarding the use of templates with mechanical ink drawing pens. I’m with > you on taking the surface down to 320 grit and the problems with tape > lines and ink creeping under the same. I’ve used crude templates at times > to get me out of trouble on certain pinline designs. Are your templates > reserved for small, added details like leash plugs, embellished nose and > tail areas? Or are we talking large full rail outlines too? I’ve been > wondering a about finding a cheap easy to use material like a thick > plastic or something that is easily cut by razor, smooth or easily > smoothed and can be done on the fly. I suppose some solid (not corrugated) > cardboard will work in a pinch but I keep coming back to reusable, > something you can use for cut lap lines which then can be reused for the > pinlines to cover the same. Am I dreaming or should I be out there paying > dues and pulling tape lines? The templates that I use for the Rapidograph pens are availiable at www.dickblick.com (i hope this right it was posted earlier in this string of messages)These pens were designed for drafting and there are tons of really cool patterns such as french curves,letters,circles,squares etc.It’s a big catalog so you to wade through it to find them. I don,t use inklines for the main pin outline, I just use them to add a little pizaz and its easily reversible. I also have some that I made out thin plexiglass.Make sure that the edges are super clean because the main deal with these pens is that the tip rides along the edge.I make my templates out of mylar or other products,cardboard is to course.I can email you some more stuff on this.
cleanlines- You answered my main question and gave me some other ideas in the process. Many thanks. TS>>> The templates that I use for the Rapidograph pens are availiable at > www.dickblick.com (i hope this right it was posted earlier in this string > of messages)These pens were designed for drafting and there are tons of > really cool patterns such as french curves,letters,circles,squares > etc.It’s a big catalog so you to wade through it to find them. I don,t use > inklines for the main pin outline, I just use them to add a little pizaz > and its easily reversible. I also have some that I made out thin > plexiglass.Make sure that the edges are super clean because the main deal > with these pens is that the tip rides along the edge.I make my templates > out of mylar or other products,cardboard is to course.I can email you some > more stuff on this.
If you press the tape down with a ice cream stick the ink won’t bleed very much. For some reason this works, I’ve heard a razor blade will work also,but I know the ice cream stick works for sure
Gill…the pens that Jim was referring to are called “mechanical” pens - available at art/graphics supply stores. these pens have refillable ink cartridges which can accommodate all colors of inks. the pens have varying width tips which were designed for precise “mechanicals”, or the prepress work for printed graphics before the advent of the computer. (way back when you had to have a steady hand and some manual dexterity). Rotring, kohinoor, rapidograph are popular brands. You can attach the pens to a specially designed compass for circles of different widths. Great for freehand, too, of course. the pens were designed to be used at 90 degrees to the surface on which you are working (i.e. straight up! {or out}). Any “template” or straightedge that you “lean” the pen next to to create an accurate shape SHOULD BE RAISED A FEW MILLIMETERS (with a couple nylon washers strategically placed) to avoid the ink from bleeding under. this applies - mostly - to flat surfaces…unless your hands are comfortable (and trained) enough to take a chance. Have any of you used “FRISKET FILM” (TOM S.) on any of your color/art work…in addition to traditional tape offs? Furthermore, is there a precolor spray-as-ground which will minimize bleeding in many cases?! (a few of you mentioned a dilute spray of glue medium a while back). Please feedback, you zen masters!!! …T.
Gill…the pens that Jim was referring to are called > “mechanical” pens - available at art/graphics supply stores. > these pens have refillable ink cartridges which can accommodate all colors > of inks. the pens have varying width tips which were designed for precise > “mechanicals”, or the prepress work for printed graphics before > the advent of the computer. (way back when you had to have a steady hand > and some manual dexterity). Rotring, kohinoor, rapidograph are popular > brands. You can attach the pens to a specially designed compass for > circles of different widths. Great for freehand, too, of course. the pens > were designed to be used at 90 degrees to the surface on which you are > working (i.e. straight up! {or out}). Any “template” or > straightedge that you “lean” the pen next to to create an > accurate shape SHOULD BE RAISED A FEW MILLIMETERS (with a couple nylon > washers strategically placed) to avoid the ink from bleeding under. this > applies - mostly - to flat surfaces…unless your hands are comfortable > (and trained) enough to take a chance.>>> Have any of you used “FRISKET FILM” (TOM S.) on any of your > color/art work…in addition to traditional tape offs? Furthermore, is > there a precolor spray-as-ground which will minimize bleeding in many > cases?! (a few of you mentioned a dilute spray of glue medium a while > back). Please feedback, you zen masters!!! …T. Tom V., After prepping and laying down the tape lines properly, a thin coat of clear, fast drying acrylic sealer, such as 1-Shot Acrylic Bonding Primer 5005, will prevent subsequent paint colors from bleeding. Dale
Jim, what exactly is the type of pen you’re talking about? And Dale, > thanks for the link. Is there a picture? I don’t see one and I can’t > figure out how this works. I guess I’ve been doing it the old fashioned > way with the caligrapghy pen! By the way Dale, have been enjoying your > posts since we last spoke. We have had some fun swell here and I’ve even > been able to take the mat out a few times; stoked! Still creating in my > shop also (tried to add a pic of my U.P. shaping room, we’ll see if it > works). Thanks for the advice and inspiration. Take care- michigan ryan Michigan Ryan, Just curious… what kind of board designs do surfers in the Great Lakes waves use for waves like these? Wow!! Nice photos! http://www.superior-surf.com/stony_point_sp02/10.html http://www.superior-surf.com/stony_point_sp02/index.html Dale
Michigan Ryan,>>> Just curious… what kind of board designs do surfers in the Great Lakes > waves use for waves like these? Wow!! Nice photos!>>> http://www.superior-surf.com/stony_point_sp02/10.html>>> http://www.superior-surf.com/stony_point_sp02/index.html>>> Dale Hey, thanks guys for the great info. I’ve been taping off, and using a caligraphy pen in black ink for my pin’s. I have a fairly steady hand and they have been coming out pretty well. Looks like there are easier ways to do it with what you’re talking about. Must you have a template to bump up against or could I simply run the buegler or similiar pen along the tape? I guess the guide along the rail may work, but I imagine that would take a steady hand also. Dale, we have had some fun waves here on the south shore of superior, yesterday was clean waist to chest and barrelling some, pretty rare in the lakes. The shots above were taken on the north shore of superior in Minnesota; there are a few great breaks there but they usually only go off in the winter- cold but worth it as you can see! As for surfboard design on the lakes, I keep things pretty simple, not too different from what the coastal guy’s are doing. Generally, the shorter I go, wider and flatter than salt water shapes, with exceptions. I just finished a 9’6 log, Performer template, based on what was done in ‘65-‘68, should be good for small summer surf and I guess what is now generically termed “retro”. Nothing like the trim speed and ability to hang em off the tip! Anyway, many thanks to you Dale and all the other regulars at swaylocks (not to mention Mike for providing this), I have been finding great information here for a year and a half or so, and since I moved back from making boards for a factory in santa cruz this site is where I turn to for answers! Thanks guy’s. p.s. Dale, my new email is . Take it easy man.
Gill…the pens that Jim was referring to are called > “mechanical” pens - available at art/graphics supply stores. > these pens have refillable ink cartridges which can accommodate all colors > of inks. the pens have varying width tips which were designed for precise > “mechanicals”, or the prepress work for printed graphics before > the advent of the computer. (way back when you had to have a steady hand > and some manual dexterity). Rotring, kohinoor, rapidograph are popular > brands. You can attach the pens to a specially designed compass for > circles of different widths. Great for freehand, too, of course. the pens > were designed to be used at 90 degrees to the surface on which you are > working (i.e. straight up! {or out}). Any “template” or > straightedge that you “lean” the pen next to to create an > accurate shape SHOULD BE RAISED A FEW MILLIMETERS (with a couple nylon > washers strategically placed) to avoid the ink from bleeding under. this > applies - mostly - to flat surfaces…unless your hands are comfortable > (and trained) enough to take a chance.>>> Have any of you used “FRISKET FILM” (TOM S.) on any of your > color/art work…in addition to traditional tape offs? Furthermore, is > there a precolor spray-as-ground which will minimize bleeding in many > cases?! (a few of you mentioned a dilute spray of glue medium a while > back). Please feedback, you zen masters!!! …T. Well said Tom,I wish I could have explained it that clearly. Instead of washers I use little dots of masking tape to shim up my templates,usally thre layers deep.I do alot of pigment panels and if you can manage a clean line you run your pen slowly down the line…the edge of the resin panel works as the template…its a real pain to clean up if you blow it so practice.
Dale!..Thanks for the tip, brah! Will give the One Shot a shot! With respect to inks, a lot of you should be made aware that many of them aren’t too lightfast (the colors can fade). One tip you guys might want to consider is adding ONE drop of - diluted - half water/half DISTILLED WHITE VINEGAR to the ink cartridge. the mild acetic acid in the ink acts as a mordant or color fixer. A final word…there’s this teenage kid at the local beach who is the proud owner of a vintage surf jet surfboard (not a single ding on it). board was his dad’s …kept in the house for some 30 years… with ALL HAND RENDERED INK DRAWINGS on it! (peace symbol and flowers!!). No appreciable fading! The kid almost wet his pants when I told him of it’s worth. I think that he stripped the wax off of it and ran home with the board that very afternoon (that I told him)!