I built this custom resawing fence out of a bunch of skateboard wheels that I bought on Ebay. I wanted a self adjusting system to hold the stock tight to the fence when I hand feed 10-12’ long boards through my 36" bandsaw. I use rough 2x6’s and 2x8’s to build my paddleboards so I needed something that would self adjust as I cut my planks. The two tensioning arms are each tensioned by a trampoline spring and the heights can be adjusted with different spacers. There is a 5/8" bolt through the table that threads into a steel plate under the table. The springs have 3 gross tensionn adjustments that you can see in the picture. The tension is fine tuned with a eye-bolt anchored by a threaded knob just out of the picture. It is working really well and I thought it might help some other hollow wood board builders.
Can’t beat ebay for the best stuff - good use of threaded eye-hooks as tension adjusters on the springs. Did you just dowel-through the eye for the knob?
I sometimes repair boards with redwood strips - it might be good for that purpose. In a pinch, any wood would probably work in your saw setup. So I assume you had to cut those metal plates with all the holes for the bolts by yourself - they weren’t just laying around?
You could also use that for ordinary furniture veneers. One big advantage over table saws or other saws is you can cut real wide planks. I presume you use a different saw for the ribs - with a thinner blade. Or can you demount the metal parts and put a thinner blade in?
You should make longboards and shortboards - nice to have more organics.