I’m planning for winter here in Del Mar, CA (north San Deigo coastline) and I am once again looking for that elusive perfect board shape for the winter conditions here. For those who aren’t familiar with the surf here, winter surf can be irritatingly difficult. In general, if it is overhead the waves tend to be nearly impossible to paddle into. They are relatively soft and break in relatively deep water. In general they are still moving toward shore at a very fast pace. The polar opposite of, say, Puerto Escondido. In addition, the reef is soft and crumbly. It extends for a quarter mile at a stretch, so there is no real channel to surf out of. You basically have to paddle through the surf to get out. On a typical day I can stand on the bluff and watch a crowded lineup and wave after wave go by un-ridden. We are talking 8’ to 12’ faces, not 30’ faces. People can’t seem to paddle into them unless they wait until they are practically breaking on their heads. Frustrating!
So…
I’ve been on a 20 year quest to find a board that works well for the winter. I need something that can paddle VERY well to catch these fast moving (as opposed to fast breaking) waves. At the same time, a traditional long board is suicide for all but the strongest paddlers. I need something I can duck dive under the waves to make it through. Frankly, these are mostly straight down the line rides, so a quick turning board is not essential. In short, what do people recommend for fast paddling yet submerge-able board?
Me: 210lb compact build. I can duck dive my 7’ 2" like it was not even there, my friends 8’ becomes a problem.
So, recommendations on length, thickness, width, bottom contour, nose and tail shape, etc? Any of the major shapers have a special model that works for this?
I’d suggest something around 7’6" to 7’8", nose around 11-12, width 20-21, tail 14ish. foil both nose & tail out thin, leave the beef under the chest for paddling. Rounded pin or swallow, as you prefer. Flatter spot in the rocker for paddling speed. I’d go 2 3/4 for your size/weight. Dome the deck a bit if you like thinner rails or leave it flatter if you dig beefy ones. 2x6 glass on the deck so you wont mangle it when you duck dive. Bring on the winter!! I love boards like this…pretty much all I ride that time of year. So does Resinhead… Ace at OB Surf would make you one I’m sure.
We have waves like that up here too, almost exactly like you’re describing. I went to the Bonzer junior mint at the bottom of the picture. 7’x21"x2 7/8", 13 1/2" nose, 14" tail. Foil is thick up front, beaked nose, low entry rocker, wide point 3" forward of center. Tail rocker is a bit more than you would expect, tail foil is much thinner than the front, looser than you’d think. I’m 5’10", 210 pounds, I put my chin down and I get in. Hope it helps…
Plugging in your dimensions (essentially, they ended up a little bigger in the nose and tail) I quickly sketch out the following design. Is this what you had in mind? See attach.
I also like the one pictured. Boy, It sure looks a lot shorter than 7’0". Interesting that it has a thick beaked nose. Do you know the theory behind what that does?
It is hard to tell the dimensions of your board from the pictures. Can you tell me more about what you are suggesting (e.g. lenght, width, bottom contour, nose, and tail)?
It is hard to tell the dimensions of your board from the pictures. Can you tell me more about what you are suggesting (e.g. lenght, width, bottom contour, nose, and tail)?
That board is for someone between 180 and 235 it’s 6’8’’ x 15 7/8 x 21.5 x 17 x 3 1/8 thick. We have another one thats 7’2’’ same shape 16’’ x 23 x 18 x 3 1/4 thick. for surfers between 230 and 260 They catch waves as easy as longboards and turn on a dime. Larry’s probox versa - Plane allows multiple fin configerations and adjustment, but it’s shaped single to be ridden a variety of ways.