The shells are abundant and interesting and there for the taking, unlike the waves. I have got my share, but left plenty for others. Little pales and 15 minute heats, best two out of five with bonus points for those who are actually having fun. If Andy was still around he would not be favored.
Cheers
Roger
Have they got a halfpipe in j-bay ? [it sounds like they might "need’’ one …]
or derek hynd’s old house , with the slide in the middle of it … THAT looked fun !
[how’s the swell south of you guys , I’m sure within a few hours drive there must be SOME good waves around for you, surely ???]
ben
Marginal waves so far today with some good predictions for tomorrow. Winds could funk it up.
Roger(full of shells)
I can’t remember how or when it started, but as I live a way from the sea, one day I decided that I would pick up a shell on the way back up the beach as souvenior of my experience.
Well it turned in to a bit of a ritual, now every time I finish surfing I always pick up a shell, pebble, feather or bit of drift wood. just one.
I started putting them in the mantle peice, when that filled up, I started on the fire place, Its looking like some sort of shrine, now I’m running out of space to put shells.
any sugestions.
" Its looking like some sort of shrine, now I’m running out of space to put shells.
any sugestions. "
maybe make up a BIG slab of nearly expired resin , and set them in that …
Woody, take one back from your house to the shore every time you go surfing and pick up a new one afterwards to take home again. Make a rule that you can’t surf unless you put one back.
…or …
make a hat out of them [use lots of tin foil] , speak gobbledegook very loudly , as you paddle out with a crazed look in your eyes ,
and
you should be able to get fairly uncrowded waves wherever you go !
cheers
ben
on rare occasions
when I have taken
a person for their first surf
when I am leaving the water
a shell or a seed waits in the shorebreak.
I reach down and as I pick it up
I try to invest the joy of freedom
so recently experienced.
when I catch up with the
new friend I pass along the item
with all my passion for surfing invested
in the shell or rock or seed
and begin wondering if they can feel what I feel
and wether they will cherish
the memory aided by the token
or maybe
just throw it away
or let it languish
at the bottom of a pocket
,wallet or drawer.
I sometimes fantasise
that someone might have
this otherwise common stone or shell set in gold
and worn proudly while taking another lingering look
at the familiar roiling sea heretofore overlooked.
sometimes I find a stone or shell
in a box on my bedroom shelf
and I know it’s special.
I can feel it.
I dont collect too many .
then they lose the special feeling.
some people I take for their first surf
I dont even consider giving them a token
I can sense when it would just be wasted.
…ambrose…
so I reached for the dylan song book
I figured it might be cool to close with a dylan lyric.
I fliped the book open
and skimmed love minus zero , no
baby blue…naa
the gates of eden
maggies farm only a pawn in their game nothing was right
till I came to
“all I really wanna do”
heh heh heh
yea thats it
me and the sea…