This one came out pretty light. 7’ 6" x 20 1/2" x 2 5/8" 14lbs.
Deck and bottom are 1/8" skins with 6 oz glass.
Awesome boards guys! Nice to see craftsmanship like that.
Marke, what kind fo skins did you use? The deck looks white in the pic. What kind fo wood did you use on the rails? Nice red color.
Nice board Marke. How did you get the skins to bend over the compound curves in the nose? I’m assuming that you used 1/8" doorskin or bender ply.
I used 1/8" bending ply for the deck. I painted it white because the grain was ugly. For the bottom I used 1/8" luan that I veneered with some ash that I had left over from a job. The rails are 1/8" luan.
I used a vacuum bag to get the deck clamped evenly over the frame.
It was important to have a crowned deck so that there would be less rail to build up and less overall weight.
I’m planning on making a bender ply board this summer. I’ve seen your posts and those of Daniel Hess and fell in love with the look. Primo boards. I was going to go with the veneer until I found out how expensive they are, as opposed to bender ply which is pretty economical.
Which way is the bendy direction of the ply? Across the stringer so it can wrap the rails? Or along the stringer so It can follow the rocker? Also, I’m wondering how much vaccum was necessary to pull down the compound curves with the bender ply? Also were you vacuuming over 1 or 2 lb EPS? I’ve purchased a Venturi vacuum generator to run off a small 1 hp compressor. I hope I can get enough vac off the combo.
Thanks again for your advice. If I recall the walnut board snapped. Did you repair it? How did that go? That one was a beauty!
Great Idea for a post Robbo.
Here’s what I’ve been up to…LOTS of pics on my board building blog here .
llilibel03,
The bend of the ply was across the rails and I needed more pressure than veneer over EPS but not too much. The first time I cranked it up and it put a hole in the deck. I would recomend a layer of 4 oz glass on the inside as the 1/8" ply is not that strong.
Yes i fixed the walnut board and surfed it through the winter.
Haha! Ancient thread - exhumed by Huck! I've been frustrated that I haven't been able to build any hws for awhile now, hoping to get one going soon. So I was using the search function for "hollow wooden surfboard", and found this thread. So I'll add a few pics of my past hws.
Great deck on that first fish, Huck. Thanks for bringing the thread back.
I’ve got to try your rail technique on the next one. I have some poplar left over from a job, it is fairly light.
I post this mostly to say thanks to all the folks putting up info on how to do a HWS. Spent many hours looking at Swaylock’s threads, Grain, Paul Jensen, … thanks for sharing insight. Below is my first attempt - not yet glassed. For others thinking about doing a HWS, I created this: http://woodsurfboard2011.blogspot.com/ to show that a guy with limited woodworking experience and no access to a local surfshop can still have a great time building a HWS.
[img_assist|nid=1057912|title=View of stacked triangular strips used to build rails on hollow wooden surfboard|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=100|height=67][img_assist|nid=1057916|title=7'9 1/2" Hollow Wooden Egg|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=100|height=67]
Here’s a few of the recent boards. I’ve got another longboard on the way, and the fish at the end still needs finboxes…build pics for most of them and details in the photo gallery on the rdo website. All but the SUP are the Jensen method, with either cork/ply rails or all cork rails. The flatwater SUP uses the Torres rail method to save weight.
6’ Lis fish
“Bitchart tribute” log 9’8"
9’2" high performance single fin
5’10 high performance quad fish “with wings”
flatwater sup 11’6"
fishy hyperfish 5’10"–still needs sanding and fin boxes
