Show us your home-made fins ....

awesome!

5hit your stuff always makes me drool down my shirt.  Just a thing of a beauty that.

You’re probably right. But seeing as those fins in particular are machine foiled and only have one layer of glass on them…

By hand:

1 hour to foil the plywood (at most)

30 min to Sun Cure some glass.

30-1 to sand.

Expenses plus the fun factor = $30 (maybe).

Also, I’m not sure what you’re getting at regarding the $25/hour chump change. Are you saying that $76 is too low for a high quality surf product or that those fins in particular aren’t high quality?

Plus, you can get these for $40 and they probably took longer to make: https://www.trueames.com/collections/quad-fins-3/products/bonzer-runners-solid-glass-set-of-4

$76 for plywood? Please.

 

That’s a fair point and I was wrong to say its obscene, as it isn’t. It’s more than I can afford and more than I would pay, but it’s not overpriced considering the effort gone into them. Sometimes when you can grab a bit of wood in the shed and sand it down, paying $75 for something where that’s already done seems crazy but that’s only £50 in UK money and that’s reasonable, I doubt I would be tempted to offer to make a pair for £50 with current living costs.

Embedded twinzer…

Still needs to be sanded.

Feels SOLID!




Very nice chrisp. How deep did you sink them…1/4ish?

Steve

Nice looking board. I have never ridden a twinzer. Maybe need to make one to get to have a go on one!

Is it stronger to inset the fins rather than just glass on? Just curious, won’t be doing it myself but wondered why people do as it sounds scary so there must be a pay off!

Thanks…

Actually, 1 full inch ish.

Hahaha

Like I said, they are SOLID!

Twinzers are where it’s at in my opinion.

 

Not sure if insetting the fins is stronger but my guess is that it is.

 

Another potential benefit of insetting the fins is that you don’t have to build up the base with roving. Depending on who you talk to that could be a very good thing for water flow.

 

I routed the slots for these fins before doing my bottom Contours and before glassing. Not sure if I will do fins this way again. It was just a fun experiment…

 

I am noodling on a way to Route them after glass. Might try that on the next board

“Twinzers are where it’s at in my opinion.” - yeah? I am ignorant to them. How would you say they compare to 3 fin bonzer. Slower but more manoevrable, guessing here? Once I finish the bonzer I am working on I need to finally make a board for ME! I am looking for ideas (bonzer is current idea) so maybe I could not just ride a Twinzer, I could own one!

routing before shaping contours, you’re braver than me! I would think it’s easier (less accident prone, for me that is) to do after the lam! Nice outline that board too. Where’s the damn print button when you need it, haha

My first twinzer 3ish years ago was a REVELATION… I will look for a link to the thread…

I have never ridden a 3-fin bonzer so I cannot compare.

My thoughts on the pre glass route were to nail my cant angles and to do the bottom lam and fins all in 1 shot… I ran into some hiccups but nothing that can’t be fixed.

I used a template that I ripped from a Greg Griffin board. I use it on pretty much all my boards. Its just a really good curve.

 

Heres the link…

 

https://www.swaylocks.com/forums/twinzer-love-6-feet-avocado-y-bacon-y-butter-y-goodness

Just read that thread, interesting! Thanks, sounds like a great board. I am not sure I am a skilled/nimble enough surfer to make such a thing perform as you do, but that doesnt mean I can’t try!

They seem to float ok too!

Those are nice looking fins.  I (obviously) like both the ply and the rout-in install, so I’d like to see you do more of them.   

 

As for routing after glassing, that’s the only way I’ve done it.  I do several things:

  • I install HD PU inserts into the blank at the fin position before I shape it.  

 - I glass and finish the board

  • I cant the router at the desired cant

 - I cut the slot 1/4" shorter in both ends than the base of the fin, and notch the fin bases to suit.  Both the leading and trailing edges overlap, similar to the way they would with the FCS plugs. 

  • I completely finish the fins before install.  Once they’re glassed in I’m done, except if I’m going to lay a line of resin along the base to ensure the seal.   

 

 

Nice looking fins and board Chrisp.

 

Foot bone connnected to the fin bone.

I’d just like to say Smerk, that’s a really sweet board you did.  I’m not taking anything away from the shape and the bonzer contours but extra credit for the fins, tint, and buff out.  How many boards have you made?  That looks very professional.

 

Making these bonzer runners. If I am not too ashamed I may post pics, no promises!

Should I glass them on after the lam coat, or always do it after hotcoat (sanding back to expose top of cloth)? I have done a very dark tint, if that makes any difference. I obviously do not want to sand into the 1 layer of tinted 6oz.

I made this one some time ago for a customer; Thank you Paul Jensen for the “how to”.

(1)  Probably not, unless they are slotted into a stringer.     In modern lightweight foam, and light glass, not  much support is provided.

(2)  True.   

(3)  My experience has been that little or no radius at the fin base, improves board speed.

(4)  After glass routing, is a valid technique.

Sweet looking twinzer chrispy.

Since that’s a permanent setup, I assume you’ve settled on your placements and fin dimensions.  Would love to know what’s working for you, if you want to share specifics.  Or if you’re thinking of posting it all on the -erbb twinzer thread, I’ll check there.