Show us your home-made fins ....

erichaha, I Really like that sharky profile with added base.

 

Robiegle, I’ve made a lot of fins, and just learned a lot from your videos, techniques I will use once my current panel is used up, Thanks.

 

I’m also fairly adamant about a very tight fit inside the finbox of the chosen fin system.

  Your canted sanding blocks make too much sense.

 

My most recent method for attempting a perfect fit of a rail fin to fit Probox 8 degree insert , included  a tablesaw with a zero clearance insert, and a taller fence to hold the flat side of the fin tightly against.

I’ve had a lot of fun with this twin sized fin, with a significantly sized  and more raked trailer fin to tame the twitch.

 

wrcsixeight, thanks. Actually the added base is something that I learned about while researching aerodynamic principles and foil shapes. Engineers started doing this in order to reduce drag since it basically increases the drag a little at a time instead of so abruptly.  I have done this on a smaller scale trailer fin and the thing works great.

Here is the fin prior to moulding in the futures base.

I realy like that wood twin fin…it looks like it would be so much fun. What type of wood did you use?

Just curious though how did you created the glass part on the trailing edge. DId you fill that area with additional glass to create a smooth transition at the end of the wood fin? hoe many layers of glass do you use?

The wood is Western Red Cedar, some leftovers from my latest and final HWS build.  Pretty soft and stable lightweight, and easy to work with, compared to harder woods

 

I used Gdaddy’s fin panel method for rail fins.

This fin panel I laid 3 layers of 24 oz woven roving atop heated waxed glass saturated with slow, but warmed epoxy,  then weighted the warmed and presaturated cedar atop it. The roving does not go perfectly clear, not even close, I think it needs the styrenes in poly resin to do so as it seems there is a binder in it like fiberglass matt.  Still amazingly stiff and strong and 3 layers is more simple than a dozen or more of anything thinner.

 When foiled the woven roving forms a super strong and stiff core into the tab, and its own Halo. No additional halo required, but on previous fins when more halo was required I would lay roving along the edges prepped to receive them and then more cloth over it once sanded.  Many stages.  Too many.

 After foiling I ran it through the table saw to narrow the base a mm or 2 thinner than the receptacle, then rounded the thickest part of the foil over blending it into the tab, then laid several layers of 7.5 oz( I think 3 and one 3.7oz ) cloth atop, then a wood plank covered with plastic to press all the layers tight at the fin base then more roving to fill out the thickest part of the foil I rounded over pre-exterior glass.  The base was still a bit too thin for probox, so I added more roving to make it thicker than the probox tab then ran it through the table saw to get a perfect thickness/friction fit of the fin tab with almost no additional sanding required.

 

On my Many previous wood fins the thickness of the glass layers obscures the wood grain too much, so I try not to add too much glass and use the thicker core as the strength, but too little exterior glass on a previous fin allowed the wood to separate from core on impact with a douchebag’s rail.  Too many layers of glass on the foiled side really stiffens the fin too much as well, and  the flexless fins I have made lack spark.  I like some tip flex to bend out of the way and impart less drag, but an highly skeptical of the claims that flex return/rebound  rebound to add significant drive/projection. Perhaps a super lightweight board might feel more lively, but neither myself or my boards can be considered lightweight so rebound ‘twang’ seems more like a squishy delayed response under my feet

I moved the tabs forward on these fins to move the fin farther back in the board which made the sweetspot smaller and sweeter requiring more backfoot placement precision.  While probox allows fins to move for or aft I built this one’s tab full length for no adjustment and less interference drag.  These high aspect ratio fins with little to no rake need to be further back on the board.  The previous model of this fin was even more upright and farther forward, but I broke one and lost one when some douchebag with a HPLB shoulder hopped  me and I ran over his rail. These first  sharky rail fins were enlightening though.

I am really appreciating the very low drag aspect of these rail fins, and they open up different parts of the wave face to extract speed from, especially with the 8 degree probox inserts. High up on the steep wave face and I’ve never felt such accelleration, most fins would stall at such an angle, and allow the tail to slide out but these grip and project almost unnaturally, and this might just be a novelty as it is a significantly different feel, which I enjoy, so far. 

These twins are over 6 inches deep where regular twin fin offerings I researched  seem to max out around 5.5, but I think there’s something to a deep narrow low drag tip in combo with high aspect that makes this unconventional outline work.  These fins do not force one to draw out their turns like a heavily raked fin, in fact they do the opposite, unstable, little to no self centering, and can turn inside one’s expectations requiring a different interplay of rail and fin that takes some learning and of course is not applicable to each board and surfer’s style.

I’ve been playing with the center fin size to dial in the feel, basically taming the ability to overrotate, turn inside my desired line when pushed hard, but I basically need chest high or better conditions before I ride this board, so I don’t nearly ride it as much as I would like.  The total fin surface area I am using with the center trailer fin, would seem like way too much fin, but it is not. Very Quick and lively with plenty of drive that make my regular conventional fins seem dull and listless in comparison.

  I have enough fin panel left for 2 and perhaps 4 more fins, but, making fins as I do is so time consuming.

The little to no self centering of these rail fins and their general twitchy unstable but turbo nature seems to only be a detraction the first few waves when I have a longboard hangover going on.  Once I dial in my back foot placement on pop up, and get some open face flow, I can’t find any aspect of their nature I’d want to change, but I’ve not had them out in juicy need to bleed speed types of waves, but imagine a bigger rakier center fin will add those attributes. My remaining fin panel is for rail fins though, not center fins.  I’ve done the cedar sandwich of woven roving before, and will again though.

When I was using more traditionally shaped/sized  rail fins and a smaller trailer on the same board, I was digging a high aspect ratio trailer more than any other center fin, but now am using a larger center fin that imparts some of that self centering stability lost with such high aspect ratio sharky like rail fins.

This board as a quad I have been unable to click with so far and stopped trying to, for now. The 2nd version of these sharky twins was way too upright with NO rake, too unstable as a thruster rail fin and I could overpower them, but might be well suited for a quad or perhaps 5 fin setup.

 

Variations of the regualr dolphin dorsal fin outline, especially as rail fins, is not doing it for me anymore, good thing I can make my own, and don’t care about the strange looks my fins receive by those who know exactly what a surfboard fin should look like, and can parrot futures or fcs marketing material verbatim.

 

 

Running it thru the Table Saw is the way to go.

The tablesaw method for the fin base is not without issue. 

The blade and fence must be perfectly parallel with each other, and both perpindicular to the table, the fence cannot be pushed past perpindicular when holding the flat side of the fin to it and sliding it across the blade.  Most sub 800$ tablesaws can easily perform their regular tasks without this level of precision, and as such it is difficult to actually dial them in to this degree.  My Makita, the blade is not parallel with the mitre slots, and the table is not perfectly flat. So the square in the middle of the table/blade can be misleading compared to leading or trailing edges.  It can get quite frustrating trying to achieve precision with imprecise tools, but nice to have something to blame for imprecise results.

 

Also one has to make a zero clearance insert, so there is not open space between the blade and the fence that the fin can fall through.  There is not too much to actually grip when pushing the foiled fin through, along the fence, and if the fin gets flung by the blade it is an extremely  dangerous weapon likely to get heavily damaged on whatever tries to stop it. I waxed the fence and insert for little friction and used some double sided scotch tape on fingertips to give my fingers traction, and stand off to the side, not behind the blade.  

That wax can then cause fisheyeing, as can the scotch tape residue on any subsequent layers added.

 

I went through a lot of wood, testing and moving the fence in micromillimeters to achieve the perfect thickness so the fin could barely fit into the probox insert.

I achieved an excellent result, but it consumed a lot of time to do so.

 

Now, if my tablesaw’s  mitre slots were actually perfectly parallel with the blade, I’d make a sled to hold fins perpindicular do center and perhaps rail fins.

 

Dont underestimate the positive effects of a tight fit between fin tabs and fin box receptacle. A solid Finbone to footbone connection yields increased precision and control in my opinion, and  takes a lot of point load stress off of grub screws, fin box, and the fin tab(s) itself.

 

I’ve made plenty of fins which were locked into their receptacles tightly, but had little contact with the interior of the receptacle other than the grub screw and the highest point opposite the tab.

 

Flattening the bottom of the grub screw itself, and making sure it is resting on a flat receptacle on the fin tab is also highly desirable.  I used to just led grub screws dig their own groove into fins then later reseal that area but now go further trying to spread grub screw load across much more of the tab.

 

Remove a grub screw, you will see a tapered end with a ring on it, I sand this flat so once it hits the receptacle it does not try to work its way deeper down fin tab.

My grub screws on all previous fins basically push the fin into the finbox, and lock the fin in place.

My grub screws on these latest tablesaw’d fins merely keeps the fin from pulling out of the box, and I cannot rock the fins into place at full depth, they need to be inserted directly from above, straight down and pulled straight up and out.

 

With Probox, One can get a super tight fit inside the insert but then the insert  might not sit flush inside the box but sits a bit proud/raised. I found my 8 degree inserts needed some attention on their undersides to fit the receptacles absolutely perfectly, but the 6 degree needed nothing on the same exact fin.

 

Since I am narrowing down the  fin size, shape, cant, and location fore or aft, any future fin builds might be set into the insertless finbox and molded, but  then have no adjustment possible. I could change cant or tow in or fore aft position when setting it into the receptacle.

wrc68 have you even tried to mold the fin base on your fins from a mould made from a fin that fits tightly?

I started doing this on the last set of fins that I made ant so far it worke pretty good. I got the idea from this thread:

https://www.swaylocks.com/forums/yet-another-fin-thread

Basically I cut up a bunch of fiberglass into little bits, all around an 1/8" or less in length and mix it into the epoxy that I pour into the mould. Then I insert my fin with a smaller base by 1/4" on 3 sides then the actual base that fits into the fin base in the board.

I add holes in the fin base prior to moulding so that the fiberglass epoxy resin is locked into the shaped base.

I’ve not tried to mold any fin bases, yet.

  I only make fins for myself. but have been considering making some center futures fins using broken 3d printed turbucle fins to turn some friends on

Employing probox on my latest board, all my previous fcs1 fins will fit, although I have little interest in riding my previous fins anymore, not just because I am currently into very  high aspect ratio fins.

Looking at my earlier foiling jobs with a contour gauge, leaves me less than impressed, but the same flat spots can be seen on some store bought fins too.  The TC redlines fcs1, the white and red stripes near  trailing edges throw off the foil badly, yet they were still my all time favortie rail fin for ages.

 

Chopping up fiberglass into sub 1/8" bits is a gruesome task, have you ever considered buying miled fiberglass fibers?  Saves a lot of time, and the resin can still be poured, and less chance of voids.  I dont think the strength of longer fibers is needed on a molded fin base when most of the force is compressive.

Made all these fins with G-10 bases and glassed with epoxy (RR Kwik Kick). Fun projects with the mango keel fins being the prettiest fins I’ve made yet, just amazing grain and color. The finished product looks much nicer than the pic with just the glass on it.




Yeah I owned a Makita.  Sloppy fence for sure.  

Made some fins for my fishies (4 boards / 1.5 sets of fins… I got fed up of swapping them out!) Learned a few things but overall pretty happy with the result

i used 2 part silicone but i reckon fibreglass would be better, the bases came out a bit bowed due to the flexibility of the mould

You can make a cheap and effective 'mother-mould- from plaster of Paris.

Put the original fin in the silicone mould, then make a split mould of the Silicone mould.

You can integrate some coarse fibres, like strips from an old towel or somehing similar to strengthen the plaster.

Good on ya , mate !

 

Thanks for resurrecting this old thread of mine !

 

Cheers !

 

Ben 

 

( I have PLENTY more , waiting in the wings , for this year…mostly , wooden single fins ! They are at the template stage only , at present…)

Had this great Lucid dream a week or so ago.  I was at a right point break, riding my board as a single fin, but it was a rail fin. A big upright funny looking fin.  After 3 open face pumps racing down the line,  I was able to lift off and soar around over the line up and upto the next point, over the headlands.  It was pretty freaking awesome dream.

The fin was shaped something like below.

 

 

 

 



Here are my first attempts at making fins from shop scraps. I resawed and laminated some Wenge and Maple into 7/16" (11mm) blanks and cut out my fin templates from that. Got them nearly done being foiled. One is a Keel fin going on a retro fish. The other is going on a Mini-Simmons. 






Just finished this thing last week, and it was the culmination of a lot of a lot of swaylocks archiving.  First time making a thick foil, and tried to put the wide point  far forward and taper the back down linearly.

 

It is 17.5mm thick at the foil base. The panel had 56 sheets of 6oz glass and 5 sheets of carbon. This was a true beast to foil and cut out, as I don’t have the proper tools to make fins. I did this whole thing with a jig saw, square file, and palm sander. Think my hands are still shaking a week later from shaping the foil.  But it was worth it because it fits like a glove.




Burlap coffee bag laminated in glass…

Shaping the inside foil requires some different tools/methods.

  I did not get it perfect, but close enough to test and see whether the extra effort is desirable.

 

The outside foil, I put my thin led light on the table, shielded it from my eyes, turned out all other lights, used some low angle wedges to hold the fin at a certain height and angle, and was able to see the shadows move with a single swipe of 400 grit.

 

I’ve got about 6 waves on this fin so far, in mediocre, at best, conditions.

It did not suck. 




My latest print cooling off.

Reposting to keep this wonderful thread alive!