Singles in head high (plus) surf?

General Discussion
1

My dad moved to Encinitas recently, so when I’ve been visiting him we’ve been surfing Swamis since it is a little ways on foot from his home. The longboards I’ve shaped have worked really well for us on small, fun days, but I don’t think they’ll work the best on bigger swells.

My current board:

I love the way my longboard surfs—it’s got modern, tucked-under lower volume rails, domed deck, low rocker, mild concave in the nose with a flat midsection and V in the tail, and a pulled-in rounded pin. There’s usually a 9” Greenough 4A in it—I love the flex and drive. I can really push off the rails.

It’s definitely not a noserider—I like to stand feet together just forward of the midsection and feel the glide off the rail.

My plans for a board:

I’m thinking about making an 8’0”, 21” wide, with a much more pulled in tail. I like the down-the-line speed a flatter single-fin gives, but I’m pretty sure I’ll need a little more kick in the nose (and maybe tail) to make the occasional late drop-in.

I like having V in the tail for added drive and hold, and I love the feeling of surfing off the rails. I’m thinking about keeping the midsection flat, but I’m not sure what to do about the nose.

 

What do you guys think? Any suggestions? Is it stupid to surf singles in HH+ surf?

2

Everyone knows that no one ever rode waves bigger than head high with a single fin. That's why the thruster was invented…so folks could ride bigger waves.

3

I have had this board out in hh surf a few times, it goes great.  I haven't had it in anything bigger yet, but I have no reason to think it wouldn't handle a few feet bigger surf.  8'-4" by 21", pinched rails, v in the tail.

"Is it stupid to surf singles in HH+ surf?"

Really?  You really are serious about this question?  

Rent or buy "Saltwater Wine", you will never ask that question again.

4

What does it surf like? Can you bottom turn, or do you drive down the face?

Where can I find this?

Thanks for the input!

5

Did you ever see photos of Lopez, and others, on DOH Pipeline waves?     In the early 1970's, it was on single fins.     I am surprised that you actually asked that question.

6

check the surf shop for surf movies - saltwater wine is a good one for single fin surfing, there are lots of others, morning of the earth comes to mind.

you're asking can you bottom turn a single fin? Do an internet seach for surfing clips of Barry Kanaiapuni, Sammy Hawk, Jeff Hackman, Terry Fitzgerald, Michael Peterson, Ben Aipa, Larry Bertleman, Gerry Lopez, Nat Young.

Here's one to get you started - Buttons Kaluhiokalani on a single fin

http://youtu.be/2X0ybabB6e8

yes, it bottom turns just fine.

7

There was very significant shift in surf craft in the early 80's, and then with the demise of Clark Foam, all I can say is thank god Clark Foam went out of business…  The thruster made it possible to go places (consistently) on the wave that we never thought possible.  Tom Carrols cutback in the Pipe Masters comes to mind (below pic…mind blowing years ago, but status quo today)… Yes you can ride single fins in way over head surf, just as you can drive a old 1970 Buick Rivera at over 150 mph.   But you have to ask yourself the question…Is that want I want to do in that circumstance.  Bottom turns are not the problem…its what you do with the wave after that…

You have choices.

8

Yes, I've seen that. Something similar to Lopez's style is the direction I'd like to be headed. Smooth, graceful lines that work with a wave's energy–not against it.

But those surfers are not riding those boards anymore. Wayne Lynch and Gerry Lopez, two absolute smooth style gurus, are both surfing multifin setups…which makes me reconsider fin setup in a bit more critical surf than I'm used to.

I'm looking at my setup from this perspective. Are single-fin boards really like this? Or can I design/shape one that works not only well, but excels in this kind of surf?

9

Is this going to be your only board? There is no one right fin setup - finless, single, twin, thruster, quad, five-fin, twinzer, bonzer, six fins, all have been and are being ridden in a variety of conditions. Robin Mair told me recently he wouldn’t build a tri-fin gun, he’s into quads for his guns these days.

Get yourself a good step-up thruster for bigger surf, if that’s what you prefer.

IMO, single fin boards are fun and functional, a great addition to the quiver, coolaid flavor of the day notwithstanding - Lopez rides an SUP now, too, so what?

10

To CWROE, you asked about single fin turning performance, and then changed your focus to board design, in your response.    When everyone was on a single fin, I was riding Tri Fins.  Now I ride a Twin Fin.   Most people ride something else.  So what?    I'm still powerfully drawn to a single fin setup, because they work so well IN ALL KINDS OF WAVES!  

11

No, I've got a few. On bigger days my go to board is a Takayama Egg with a Thruster setup. It paddles well and holds great, but it just doesn't feel the same as the boards I shaped do.

Glad to hear this! What kind of a setup might you do with a singlefin for HH+ reef/point surf?

12

I have several 8' single fins and I like them a lot. They will work in small to overhead plus without any problems. Here's one that sort of sounds like what you're planning to build. I have a bit of concave under the nose then it's flat and vee from the fin back. It's about 8' x 21" x 2 3/4" don't have precise measurements. I channeled the 3 middle pieces of foam, so it's really light.

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13

http://forum.surfermag.com/forum/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=UBB4&Number=2499200&fpart=1&PHPSESSID=

hopefully this link will work

this board built by Bill Thrailkill, i own 2 of them, his Broomtail Fish design

the one in this link is by far my favorite surfboard, in fact I am considering selling off 2 of my boards because Bill nailed this one so right, I simply do not surf the other 2 much because i have ths one and its weight and overall capability in all kinds of surf is hard to beat, it surfs the wave how i want to surf, flowing, arcing, nice smooth lines, keeps you close to the pocket as singles should do… and fast as hell… and turns, well turns that end faster than they start are imo where its at, and this board does just that… its almost odd to be honest, the board basically accelerates thru its arc in a turn, i am not a builder and have very little knowledge in how things work, thats what great shapers are for… I just like to surf, and let others worry about the design and builds based upon what i am describing to them

I can ride this board in thigh high junk or 2 feet overhead (it rarely gets bigger than that locally in NE FL), and I would confidantly paddle out in significantly bigger surf with this board, to the point of as big as I would feel comfortable paddling out in… 10-12 foot faces is about as big as I have ever surfed and would feel confidant on this board with no anxiety…

there are some pot shots taken by our beloved brother Roy in that thread link, but I tend to ignore him when he behaves in such a manner… he can have his opinions

couple shots of me surfing this board here locally at Jax pier on 5.5.13:

http://imageshack.us/a/img201/2781/cd76d922b73311e29ee6220.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img707/2840/a166bf56b5fc11e2b3af220.jpg

 

the point?

this may not be a "single fin" but yes, they work in HH surf, in fact, I personally prefer singles or Bill's "close set twin" as this is called in larger surf, nothing quite like a big powerful smooth bottom turn on a single fin in large surf imo

 

14

When in Encinitas take a good look around in the shops. You will see all sorts of boards from some of the best in the business. My personal choice for over head Swamies would be an egg shape  Take a look at Gary Hanle eggs. He seems to have found that perfect blend of curves. Tony Staples is another Egg-man that should be studied. 

15

To CWROE:   Setting up a single fin surfboard.     For Hawaii and California, ALL of my fins were in the 7 1/2 inch, to 8 inches deep range.     I routinely rode those fins in waves that ranged from 3 feet to 20 feet, with no issues.    I preferred to use a Fins Unlimited 10 inch box. With the fin positioned in the box for maximum movement fore AND aft, select what you consider to be the ideal fin position in the board, and mount the box in that location.     You will then have the ability to move the fin both fore and aft, to fine tune the boards performance, with respect to your desired balance of looseness, drive, sensitivity, and turning response.    Me, I like a thicker foiled, non flexing, fin.     I hope this is helpful to you.

 

Shaper since 1958

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  This is the testing ground for the 7'6 , in the picture in the next post

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 " What do you guys think? Any suggestions? Is it stupid to surf singles in HH+ surf?"

 My 32yo nephew Eli regularly chooses a single fin when it is overhead.

18
Quote:
Is this going to be your only board?
No, I've got a few. On bigger days my go to board is a Takayama Egg with a Thruster setup. It paddles well and holds great, but it just doesn't feel the same as the boards I shaped do.

My point was, you're worrying this thing like its gonna be your last and only board ever.  If its just an addition to the quiver, then build it ride it and have fun, use it in the waves you like it best in, and use your other boards accordingly.  Single fins have been around since fins have been around, surfed in all kinds of conditions and wave sizes from ankle snappers to way way overhead, by pros and average joes alike.  If you're worried about peer pressure and following the fashionista, then stick with thrusters, no harm no foul.  Ride what you like, and like what you ride.  If you're having fun, then you're on the right board.

19

I think the length of the board, outline and the width of the tail will either make it better or worse as a single. We've come a long way since the days when singles dominated and there's a lot of good reasons why multiple finned boards work.

Single fin boards have a different feel and work well in longer waves where you can draw longer arcing turns and go for the top speed. You don't have to work as hard to go fast, the wave does most of the work.

My preference for a single is to have the wide point forward of the middle and a straighter outline running into the tail. I think you can have less tail rocker or overall less rocker too. Some of my favorite boards have very little rocker, like less than 3" in the nose and less than 2" in the tail.

20

Lots of guys use single fins at Mavericks… I like the 2+1 so you can have both.

8' 14"N 21"W 14"T with 4" NR and 3 3/4TR & 3/8 V in the tail works from 3-10'+

9'9"A gun blank cut down to 9' LB Gun with cork deck

7'6" Bing

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