i have a few skil with shot bearings, is anyone know where to get them?
i need the ones at the end of the motor shaft, they have a double row of balls inside and they are wider than usual bearings.
also is anyone knows how to convert a 5.5 amp to 7.5? i bought a “shapers barrel” and it seems to have lowered the RPM. i have heard that they are upgradable some how.
We have replacement ball bearings for the Skil 100. Bearings for the armature are $19.25 for the 2. These are sealed bearings. The bearing on the comm end is not double row. It is wider because it has an internal felt seal on the armature side. These were used years ago on high speed shafts because they had less friction than rubber seals. The opposite side of the bearing has a shield since it is in a closed cavity that protects it from dust.
Ball bearings for the blade shaft are $13.50 per set. We have brushes also at $12.75 per pair.
Carbide blades are available for $45 per set. That is the 3-slot blades. HSS blades are $27.50
Shipping is $4 to $5 per order for this kind of stuff.
We have been selling replacement parts for power tools for over 20 years and have just started with the parts for the Skil 100.
As for as the armature rewinding to 7.5 amps, I will have to look into that. Normally the laminations length on the body would be increased to keep the relationship to the wattage. I had heard that it has been done just by rewinding on the present body, but I have no personal knowledge as to how it has worked out. I will look into it though with an armature rewinder that has been in business since 1933.
You may email us at or call us at 314-353-4900 M-F 8:30 – 4:00 CDT
Glad to see that someone has parts, 'cuz I need some brushes. Thanks for posting. About the difference between the 5.5 amp and 7.5 amp motors, I read awhile back that the motors are the same. Skil just changed the way they rated it. I’ll see if I can find the info and post a link.
I have to agree Lorin is a super nice guy.Really knows his stuff about tools.He just rebuilt a Skil for me.New bearings,cord,sharpened blades like a razor.I am trying to talk him in to offering a total top to bottom rebuild including armature rewind for a set price.It would be like buying a brand new machine good for many more years.Heck if you gotta send one off wy not get a "new"one back.Send him an email if you think it’s a good idea. RB
Don’t know about that Gene. The part numbers for the armature and the field are the same for the Type 4, 4A, and 5. The Type 3 used a different armature. Name plate rating on the Type 3 I just had in from RB was 5.5 amps. Have not had any of the others in so don’t know what the name plate rating is on them.
Talked to an armature rewinder that has been doing power tools since 1933 today that we have used for over 20 years, and asked them about rewinding the armature for 7.5 amps. He said he does not recall getting one for the Skil 100 planer, but they frequently get requests to rewind armatures for skil saws from carpenters that want it hotter, more power, so they can saw faster. What they do is change the wire one size, same number of turns in the coils. Usually they can only increase the wire one size because that is all the room in the slots. The tool does have more power, and it runs hotter because of the increased wattage. Field will get hotter too, and so do the bearings, so overall life may be shortened somewhat.
May have a lead on some more parts for the Skil 100. Will know next week.
Here’s a link to a thread back in January where I read that thing about 5.5 and 7.5 amp motors. Don’t know any more about it than that. It makes sense, though, that increasing the wire size would increase the amps.
Very interesting Gene. I have contact with a shop in CA that has been working on Skil tools for longer than he cares to think about and I will ask him about this when I talk to him next week.
Go to a bearing shop with parts, and they will tell you which bearings you need. They will also recommend a bearing puller, and I agree, for it makes the job so easy. If your changing one bearing you might as well change them all. it will save time in the long run.
The “shapers barrel” puts more strain on the motor, and works way better on the 7.5’s. There is a difference between the models.
Go to a bearing shop with parts, and they will tell you which bearings you need. They will also recommend a bearing puller, and I agree, for it makes the job so easy. If your changing one bearing you might as well change them all. it will save time in the long run.
The “shapers barrel” puts more strain on the motor, and works way better on the 7.5’s. There is a difference between the models.